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A/C help required on my F150


shane96ranger

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The other day I noticed my A/C compressor had a little green stuff dripping off of it. At first I thought it was anti-freeze, and then I smelled it. No sir, that was PAG oil.

Thus far I've had zero issues with the A/C. It gets the cab cold like a meat locker, same as always. So I am pretty confident all I need to do is replace the compressor. I have a little experience with A/C, but nothing major. I'm fairly certain there is no quick fix to remedy the leak, right? These "sealers" seem like a gimmick to me. With that said, my questions are; how do I introduce the PAG oil into the compressor, when do I introduce it, and how do I know how much?

Like I say, I've never done any A/C work to this extent. But I'm confident I can do it with a little instruction. I love wrenching, and would really like to add this to my repertoire.

Thanks!
 


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85_Ranger4x4

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I have heard it isn't that bad to just change the front seal in the compressors in that style of truck.

Thankfully I haven't had to go there yet but I would do that before I threw a new compressor at it.

There is a spec for how many ounces of oil a system takes, you should be able to find it somewhere. At the farm shop I work at they have a small measuring cup and a tiny funnel to put in the oil.
 

shane96ranger

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I have heard it isn't that bad to just change the front seal in the compressors in that style of truck.

Thankfully I haven't had to go there yet but I would do that before I threw a new compressor at it.

There is a spec for how many ounces of oil a system takes, you should be able to find it somewhere. At the farm shop I work at they have a small measuring cup and a tiny funnel to put in the oil.
I can't really find any direction on how to replace it. I'd love to just repair it, like you say. I actually found a seal kit, but I read it requires special tools, and that by the time you get everything - you may as well get the new compressor.


I did a little research. It appears that the FS10 compressor will either leak from the front seal, or the case seal - which is right in the middle. This appeared to be where most of the oil was concentrated to me. Anyway....

I also found this new Motorcraft compressor on Amazon (link below), precharged with PAG. This winds up being about 25 more dollars than a Spectra unit - and who knows if it comes with PAG?

http://www.amazon.com/Motorcraft-YCC214-Compressor-and-Clutch/dp/B000IYK8UK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1374036054&sr=8-1&keywords=YCC214

Next question.... just how critical is it to replace the accumulator/drier at the same time? I'm broke as a joke lately, and would like to not buy anything that I don't really need.
 
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shane96ranger

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just how critical is it to replace the accumulator/drier at the same time? I'm broke as a joke lately, and would like to not buy anything that I don't really need.
Bump^
 

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The drier doesn't need to be replaced unless the compressor has actually blown up. It becomes more critical if the system is left open for an extended period.

The compressor is fairly easy to replace, but you need to have the system evacuated.

Putting oil in the new compressor is easy. Most ship with some already in it. What you need to do is drain the old on (hold upside down and spin 8 to 10 revolutions) and measure what comes out. Then you add a given amount to the new one based on what came out of the old one. Just pour it in the larger port.
 

shane96ranger

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The drier doesn't need to be replaced unless the compressor has actually blown up. It becomes more critical if the system is left open for an extended period.

The compressor is fairly easy to replace, but you need to have the system evacuated.

Putting oil in the new compressor is easy. Most ship with some already in it. What you need to do is drain the old on (hold upside down and spin 8 to 10 revolutions) and measure what comes out. Then you add a given amount to the new one based on what came out of the old one. Just pour it in the larger port.
Excellent. Thanks a bunch Adsm. That answers all of my questions. The Motorcraft compressor I linked above comes precharged with PAG in it already, if I go that route. I read somewhere that it is precharged with 7 ounces, which is the requirement.

That's what I was thinking, and hoping for on the accumulator/drier. I don't plan on having the system open for long, just enough to change the compressor. From what I can tell, they pull moisture out of the air if they sit for too long, and it fills them with water. Luckily, I also live a a DAMN dry state.
 

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Yeah, they have a packet of silica gel desiccant (the same crap that comes in shoes and beef jerky) in there to keep moisture out of the system and keep the lines from icing up on the inside. It is designed to not give up moisture but what we have found at my shop is that you can get it back out.

What you do is set the vehicle outside, running, and pull a 2 hour vacuum. All that heat and vacuum is fairly effective at getting the water out.
 

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That's what I was thinking, and hoping for on the accumulator/drier. I don't plan on having the system open for long, just enough to change the compressor. From what I can tell, they pull moisture out of the air if they sit for too long, and it fills them with water. Luckily, I also live a a DAMN dry state.
The warrenties on most if not all new/reman compressors I sell require a new drier and expansion valve for warrenty. Car ones may be different but unless you have a receipt for them it will all be on your dime if you have compressor problems within the warrenty period.

If it bothers you check the instructions that come with the compressor to know for sure.
 

shane96ranger

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My issue with it is, the warranty on the compressors is only 3 months anyway. The F150's manufactured in 96 and early 97 are an odd ball drier. Classically, Ford made a change. Guess who has one of the odd ball's? Yep, this guy. I would rather not dick with it if I don't need to. I may change the orifice tube, but I don't understand how they are colored, and which color I need.
 

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Most of the compressors I sell only require a new drier and orifice tube if internal failure and system contamination are suspected. If you are replacing the compressor for a failed clutch or seal a new drier is not required.
 

shane96ranger

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Thanks Adsm. I took a long look at it, and I am going to just do the compressor. It has always worked great, and I would still be using it if I hadn't noticed the oil leak (luckily). Also from what I understand, the fact my oil is still green says a lot about the compressor condition.

I did a little research on the orifice tube colors. The red is a variable tube, and it was used in areas where the temps reach 100+ degrees. The blue is static tube, used in lower temp areas. I gather the two are interchangeable.

Just in case someone is wondering....

Took a pic of the compressor. I wiped the drip off of it when I found it, but you can kind of see green on the bolt on the bottom left.

View attachment 11231
 

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Ac leak

This may be to late to do you any good,but.You might spray D 12 on the compressor ,blow off the access and wipe down clean. start engine and ac.Using a mirrow check lines at compressor.You may just have a seal leaking.
 

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Shane, while you have the system down and apart, its good practice to change the O rings and the orifice. The orifice is basically a filter for the system. You'll be surprised how dirty that thing will be...

SVT
 


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