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'99 Brake Hardline Clog (Gump Move)


planeflyer21

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Howdy everyone!

While swapping the stock 7.5 axle for an 8.8, I dc'ed the flex line to the Y-fitting by the pumpkin from the hardline that runs along the frame from the front.

To stop the dripping, as I've done lots before with no issues, I put in a bamboo skewer (like for grilling) to temporarily plug it. Well, apparently these are skinnier skewers than I've used in the past and it went in the line itself, to the first minor bend (not the 90), about 1.5 inches up. Still no plugging.

Pulled and it broke off right there, about an inch of bamboo, maybe 3/8 of an inch from the end of the hardline. (if you know how rigid those skewers usually are, you wouldn't expect it to break)

So far I've tried to remove it with a drywall screw, skinny tweezers (not skinny enough), and those pseudo dental picks from Harbor Freight (which bend on bamboo btw). The picks got a few pieces of fiber separated from the lodged piece but no moving it, either direction.

Oh yes...I started with a good, hard stomp on the brake pedal. Quite the mess but no dislodging. The line did drain all the way and was dripping the whole time I messed with it Friday.

I'm tempted to leave it until I get a problem down the road (no pun intended) with the rear brakes.

Any suggestions for removing it (beyond replacing the line and "Don't do that again.")?

Thanks in advance!

Jon

P.S. I see Eastwood has an Aerosol Injected Cleaner that is supposed to blow out clogged fuel and brake lines, but the line still drains. Not sure how effective it would be. I also am contemplating using bailing/tie wire as a type of ram rod from the front, to see if I can push it out.

"And that's how the line became clogged with bamboo, steel wire, and caulking."
 


RonD

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Bamboo very absorbent so most likely it has swelled a bit, causing it to be hard to remove, it will eventually swell enough to block the line

Brake lines leak because of gravity, Master is higher so..............fluid runs downhill
Brake lines are open when pedal is up, thats how fluid is replaced if there is a leak

You can put a stick on brake pedal so its down a bit that will stop fluid in the Master from leaking out, but you still have the fluid in the higher lines wanting to "run downhill"

You can remove Master's VENTED cap put saran wrap over opening and put cap back on, that will slow the leaking, i.e. finger on the end of a straw holds fluid in the straw

Reason I bring these up is that you should remove the front brake line from Master, it goes to rear brake line
Get a rubber hose that fits over the removed brake line and BLOW as hard as you can to get the bamboo out, human lungs can only generate about 2psi pressure but it might be enough to move the bamboo out far enough to remove it
A can of compressed air may work better

Put the line back on
Top up master and let gravity do its thing
Fluid will run down from master and start dripping out after a few minutes

I use a cloth over a correct size drill bit to plug lines, most people have lots of different sized drill bits
Or just the drill bit backwards, the smooth part
 
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85_Ranger4x4

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Its 24 years old and you don't know what your skewer has done to the sidewall of your hose.

Just replace the hose.

I would be eyeing the line between the fuel tank and frame while you have it apart and are going to be having a bleedin' party anyway while I was there too. You don't sound like you are in the rust belt so yours may be better than the average one of that age around here.
 

planeflyer21

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Thanks RonD. I can do the compressed air.

85_Ranger, this is the line between the fuel tank and frame. I am in the desert, so we usually don't have rust unless the vehicle is imported from elsewhere.
 

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Brake fluid is nasty stuff, removes paint easily, so used lowest pressure you can, to prevent fluid spraying out in engine bay
And the RABS unit is in line so it won't take/pass alot of pressure

You could remove the line at the RABS unit(under front of cab in frame rail) and then its a clear shot to rear from there
 

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planeflyer21

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Brake fluid is nasty stuff, removes paint easily, so used lowest pressure you can, to prevent fluid spraying out in engine bay
And the RABS unit is in line so it won't take/pass alot of pressure

You could remove the line at the RABS unit(under front of cab in frame rail) and then its a clear shot to rear from there
I just came in to ask "Is it okay if I pull the line at the RABS and blow it out from there?" lol

I'll report back with the results.
 

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And its really funny too
 

planeflyer21

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Okay, the airgun with the rubber nipple produced some results. I couldn't tell if it was moving or not and kept turning up the air pressure, well past the "recommended maximum pressure." Although it did completely clear the line of the remaining brake fluid.

And the rubber nipple blew off. Twice. And retrieved it twice and put it back on the airgun.

Then permanently lost it a 3rd time.

Before that loss though, with the increased air pressure...along with using 2 box end wrenches to straighten the slight bend that was at the end of that portion of brake line...I was able to get the piece of bamboo skewer to the end of the brake line. 🙌

The temptation is to try to pick it out from that location. However, I chose to go to Harbor Freight and get a new $5 airgun, with a rubber tip.

After it warms up a bit in the morning, I will recharge the air compressor and see if I can get that out a bit more or just blast it out.

If I can get it 1/8th of an inch out, I'll grab it with some pliers.

Stay tuned!
 

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Go ahead and pick at it... Gump would approve.

I have a few brake bleeder screw rubber caps. They seem to work pretty good for capping an open brake line.
 

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If you can’t get it that last little bit out, you may be able to just cut off the flared part. Might be just a hair tighter at the end of the line. Then just reflare.
 

planeflyer21

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Success!

It was longer than the inch that I suspected. First puff of air, hit the bucket like a BB gun.

Now, to wrangle in that Explorer line.

Thanks everyone for the input!

IMG_20230130_105530867.jpeg
 

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