98 ranger 2wd V8 swap, help needed

[Cobra_CS]

Hey everyone. About to start my swap in a month and trying to get everything possible together before I start. Any help or advise would be appreciated. To start I'll let you know what I have, what I'm using for the swap and go from there.
The truck:
1998 Ford Ranger ext cab flare side 2wd 4.0l auto.
Donor vehicle:
1996 Ford Explorer limited 5.0l auto AWD
Looking to build a 5.0l, 2wd, standard. Around 300 horse at the wheels.
Probably getting a trans from a late 80's mustang, unless there's a better option. Not sure if I'll be using cable clutch or going hydraulic and getting pedals from another ranger or not.
I've been researching between sites, and have gotten allot of ideas but hoping someone may have done the same swap on the same year to get a better idea.
I've also been wondering about headers, I'm trying to stay in a reasonable budget and the torque monsters are over $1000(I'm in Canada). Has anyone had luck taking any cheaper options and modifying to fit?
Hoping to get some advise, any help would be appreciated. Hoping to do a build thread if all goes well. Thanks in advance.

 

[Mac]

Get another set of pedals, go hydraulic. Stock cast iron Explorer headers just fine for 300 hp. Better cam to reach 300hp, heads if in buget.
Dave

 

[Rangstang]

Probably getting a trans from a late 80's mustang, unless there's a better option. Not sure if I'll be using cable clutch or going hydraulic and getting pedals from another ranger or not.

Done four V8 Rangers... two of them 2000 Trailhead trucks with torsion suspension, a 99 std. cab coil spring 2WD, and a 98 std. cab coil spring 2WD. All of them I went with T5 transmissions from Mustangs. I used T5s from 94+ V6 Mustangs most of the time because they're plentiful and cheap, but my motors have been stock. You may want to bump up to Z-spec.

I run the stock pedals, using a 99 F250 master cylinder (requires slight opening of the master seat on the pedal assembly), a Russel adapter fitting kit, aftermarket stainless braided line, and a CNC hydraulic slave with mounting bracket available from dazecars.

I use the S10 tail housing and shift fork cover and on this most recent build purchased a Core shifter on ebay (short throw). I then cut off the factory shifter base and grind down and weld a plate so I can bolt it to the shifter. That way I can put the factory cup holder/boot assembly back in place. I also remove the factory knob, cut the top of lever down and weld in a bolt so I can install a Mustang shift knob.

Get another set of pedals, go hydraulic. Stock cast iron Explorer headers just fine for 300 hp. Better cam to reach 300hp, heads if in buget.
Dave

What do you have against factory pedals?

 

[dasfinc]

If you aren't aiming for just all-out speed, you can do the M5ODr2 Swap as well.

2wd M5ODr2's from 97-03 4.2 V-6 F-150's share bell housing patterns and are silly cheap (there are 2 tested units in my area, $150 and $175 respectively), and they come out of the floor exactly where the center console cubby is if you use the explorer center console.

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/index.php?threads/98-5-0-awd-auto-to-5spd-m5r2-and-4406-m.248285/

 

[Cobra_CS]

Thanks that's allot to think of. On the f150 trans, what flywheel and clutch do you use?

 

[Cobra_CS]

Thanks everyone that has been helping so far, keep it coming.

 

[win]

I suggest you use the Explorer rear axle. LSD, heavy duty axle shafts, stronger ring/pinion and disk brakes make it nearly a must have for the 5.0 Rangers.

If you plan a significanly lowering the Ranger, you can use the original over the spring perches, or, if keeping the OEM ride height, get new 3" tube perches and have them welded on directly opposite the Expo ones. Also, get some Jeep 3" tube weld on shock mounts and have those welded on same location as the Ranger ones are. The Explorer u-bolt plate/lower shock mounts don't really work well with the Ranger upper shock mounts.

You can make up your own engine mounting plates using flat plate steel if your Ranger uses coil springs up front.

Do a ton of research on the wiring between the doner and Ranger -- the A/C can be tricky in some cases.

Headers, unless used, are essentially made out of unobtainium these days. And used, are a hit and miss (mostly miss) in finding any. The OEM cast Explorer manifolds flow better than the tubular ones. It's been suggested that early Mustang 298 cast manifolds might be a suitable compromise. They won't fit the Explorer front cats but are reputed to clear all the Ranger conflicts.

 

[2Krngr]

Thanks that's allot to think of. On the f150 trans, what flywheel and clutch do you use?

I have a 2000 2wd ranger with an Explorer 5.0 engine swap and manual trans.

I used the following which was a bolt on solution.

1999-2003 F150 I300 M5OD-R2 5-Speed Manual Transmission
1999-2003 F150 I300 "Short Nose" Manual Starter (for 164 Tooth Flywheel)
1999-2003 F150 I300 Engine/Starter Plate (for 164 Tooth Flywheel)
1994-1996 F150 302 5.0L Flywheel 164 Tooth 50oz
1994-1996 F150 302 5.0L Clutch Disc and Pressure Plate
1998-2000 Ranger 4.0L M5OD-R1 Transmission Rubber Isolator Mount
1998-2000 Ranger 4.0L M5OD-R1 Slave Cylinder
1998-2000 Ranger 4.0L M5OD-R1 Drive Shaft
1998-2000 Illusive Fabrications Raised Transmission Crossmember

Make sure whatever Flywheel you choose is a 50oz balance if you are using an Explorer motor/Dress/Crank Pulley!

 

[don4331]

Cobra_CS:

I have done the conversion using the years you are suggesting and it was way more of PIA than it should have been.

Now, part of that was I wanted a manual & 331, but a lot is due to the specifics of the vehicle years in question. (2nd conversion was '00s for both and was SOOOO much easier, but that is stock Explorer 5.0 and Mustang 4R70W auto).

The '96 Explorer has the lower pressure fuel system with associated return line, while the '98 Ranger has the high pressure without. So I had to swap the fuel pump in the Ranger for the lower pressure one and install a return line (from '97 Ranger).

Assuming Ranger is coil spring (pretty safe on '98 2wd); the mounting plates can be picked up on ebay for less than you can probably make them..

The '96 Explorer also has the EGR through the heads/intake, which makes performance improvements more challenging. Aftermarket heads rarely have internal EGR passage ways and EGR is kind of important here in Canada during winter months (not so much for emissions, but for faster warm ups). And 300 real hp at rear tires is - challenging - without aftermarket heads.

You could use up to about '02 Mustang transmission* (either auto or manual) as the 3.8 V-6 has the same bolt pattern (may/may not need reaming to convert from metric to imperial bell housing bolts). <I did auto as I wanted it on the road the same year, truck I started with was an auto, and auto is easier on parts (e.g. rear end)>.

I found it more work than it should have been to install the Explorer 8.8 and get shocks, sway bar, mounts, correct gears <squirrel has 4.10s> & LSD all working correct (but I am lousy welder and I didn't really have correct tools for installing the new differential).

Your 4.0 s/c would have the 8.8, so while the Explorer 8.8 is better (larger axle tubes/31 spline axles) the difference is not huge (Ford rates Explorer about 10% higher for both torque and weight carrying). If you do swap the Explorer 8.8, swap the master cylinder to match.

*3.8 T-5 does come with 3.35 1st gear which isn't as nice as the 2.95 from a V-8, but they are easier to find. The S-10 tail section is the one I would start hunting for 1st, if you want to go T-5. I went with M5OD-R2 as I had bad luck with T-5s in my Mustang but I was younger in '80s...

 

[Rangstang]

It's been suggested that early Mustang 298 cast manifolds might be a suitable compromise. They won't fit the Explorer front cats but are reputed to clear all the Ranger conflicts.

I know you meant 289 and on my most recent 2000 Ranger, I used these manifolds on a 95 Mustang 5.0 HO with no clearance issues. Although, there is no EGR provision on them and I have a Trailhead truck (like an Edge) so there may be some minor differences.

 

[2Krngr]

I know you meant 289 and on my most recent 2000 Ranger, I used these manifolds on a 95 Mustang 5.0 HO with no clearance issues. Although, there is no EGR provision on them and I have a Trailhead truck (like an Edge) so there may be some minor differences.

Yeah the 2wd edge uses the 4wd torsion frame.. Any chance you have any pics of them installed? Would love to see.

You say manifolds, so I assume you mean stock type manifold not an aftermarket 289 tubular header?

I'm always looking for header options, and am running egr delete so that isn't an issue for my setup.

 

[srpierson]

I have a 2000 2wd ranger with an Explorer 5.0 engine swap and manual trans.

I used the following which was a bolt on solution.

1999-2003 F150 I300 M5OD-R2 5-Speed Manual Transmission
1999-2003 F150 I300 "Short Nose" Manual Starter (for 164 Tooth Flywheel)
1999-2003 F150 I300 Engine/Starter Plate (for 164 Tooth Flywheel)
1994-1996 F150 302 5.0L Flywheel 164 Tooth 50oz
1994-1996 F150 302 5.0L Clutch Disc and Pressure Plate
1998-2000 Ranger 4.0L M5OD-R1 Transmission Rubber Isolator Mount
1998-2000 Ranger 4.0L M5OD-R1 Slave Cylinder
1998-2000 Ranger 4.0L M5OD-R1 Drive Shaft
1998-2000 Illusive Fabrications Raised Transmission Crossmember

Make sure whatever Flywheel you choose is a 50oz balance if you are using an Explorer motor/Dress/Crank Pulley!

Hi 2Krngr, I like your list here, as I'm putting together the parts for a 5.0 2wd M/T swap. However the Ford 4.9 ended production in 1996, so I'm a little confused, do I just need to find a M5OD-R2 from a 4.9 equipped F-150 up to 96? Is there a reason sourcing a trans from a 5.0 equipped F150 wouldn't work?

 

[CUracing]

I think he meant v6, 4.2 or whatever size that was from 99-03

 

[don4331]

The 4.9 version of the transmission has 1/2" bolt holes; the 4.2 version has 12mm holes. So, 1/2" bolts won't fit in the smaller holes. So, you have to ream the bolt holes in 4.2 version at which point it is not longer a "bolt in" - although pretty close. And re-reading the post/my reply - I'm not sure he didn't mean the 4.2 V-6 - the dates don't match for a 4.9.

The 5.0 version of the transmission moves the shifter forward a few inches, making the shifter really close to the dash. Again, you can bend the shifter/ add a "z" adapter to move back, but no longer "bolt-in".