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98 No Crank No Start

98rangerin808

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X marks the wires to test for voltage, assuming you don't feel a click at starter relay

I would test fuse 24 first, see if it has 12v with key turned to START, if not then ignition switch under steering column is most likely the issue

Unplug neutral switch, called the DTR
Test PINK wire to see if it has 12v with key turned to START, this is the 12v IN from fuse 24
There is a Tan/Red stripe wire on the switch as well, that's the OUT to starter relay

If you jumper the pink and tan/red wires together then relay and starter motor should activate with key turn to START, i.e. bypassing the DTR, like you did the relay


EDIT
test if relay is working with finger feel or just swap in relay 9
So the ignition switch has 12v
Looking at the diagram for the 3.0 or 4.0, it looks like it has some sort of anti-theft relay at the top of the circuit. I wonder where this "relay box" is located? That would be a interesting spot to check the circuit.
im sorry i dont know what im looking at lol
 


RonD

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Its IMPOSSIBLE......................for both of these to be true
Starter relay clicks close with key turned to START
Jumper 30 and 87 in relay socket activates starter

Especially if you swapped relays, I assume your heater fan works, lol?

All the relay does is to connect 30 and 87 together, same as jumper does, so its impossible for both to be true


Any alarm or anti-theft system prevents starter relay from working, so if its working it ain't that
 

RonD

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Sorry can't do that, and delete your phone number
 

98rangerin808

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Sorry can't do that, and delete your phone number
What do you mean it’s impossible, my starter relay was clicking so i ran the jumper wire in the same relay and turned the key when i heard starter activate. Engine started running so i drove to work, is it bad to keep driving the truck like this? I bought a new starter relay but for some reason there is still a click and no crank no start.
 

98rangerin808

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Here are the two different starting diagrams for a 1998 ranger. One diagram is for a 2.5 engine. The other is if you have a 3.0 or 4.0 engine. You have been doing good using jumpers and your fingers to troubleshoot, but I think it is time for you to graduate to at least a testlight. You can get one cheap at Harbor Freight. Once you get that, you can check for voltage at different areas and find where the problem is located. People on this board can walk you through doing some testing and reading the diagrams. Otherwise you are going to have to take it to a shop.
pretty sure i have a circuit tester that lights up when i touch a fuse or something. pretty sure i can do it, just need a little help reading the diagram.
 

2011Supercab

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What do you mean it’s impossible,
If the relay clicks when you turn the key = that means that part of the circuit is good.

If jumping slot 30 & 87 makes the starter work = that means that part of the circuit works.

If both of those are true = means your relay is bad or the relay is not making contact to slot 30 or 87 slots it plugs into.

You swapped a working relay into this spot, leads me to believe the plug wires in slots 30 or 87 are not making contact to the relay.

Do the contacts that the relays plug into for the heater and the starter look the same ?
 

franklin2

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I see what the other guys are saying now, I thought you had the common Ford starter relay on the fender, but you don't. You just have a Bosch type relay in the fuse box sending a signal to the starter.

Like they said, if this starter relay clicks when you spring the key to start, that means the relay is getting a signal to pass power to the starter.

If you can unplug the relay and jump the contacts and make the starter work, then you do have power at the relay.

So it should start, everything is there. I have a feeling you are going to have to get someone with a little more experience to look at it. In the meantime it won't hurt anything to jump the relay socket to start it. Just be careful and make sure it's in park and make sure the key is in run so it will start. You re jumping the starter out, so it will crank the engine no matter what.
 

RonD

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+1 to all the above, including, it's OK to start and drive the vehicle this way


In the diagram of a relays pins and slots
30 should test as having 12v all the time, from Maxi-fuse #1 in same fuse box
87 runs to starter motor

These 2 are now known to work because starter activates when you connect them via Jumper
As said above there could be an issue with the contacts in the slot or on the relay so either 30 or 87 is not connecting with relay in place

85 and 86 are how the relay is activated by the key
In my diagram it shows 85 as a full time Ground
86 has the wire from neutral switch on trans, when 86 gets 12v from key in START the relays clicks closed connecting 30 and 87

85 and 86 are reversible doesn't matter which one is ground and which one gets 12v, as long as there are both to complete the circuit
 
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98rangerin808

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If the relay clicks when you turn the key = that means that part of the circuit is good.

If jumping slot 30 & 87 makes the starter work = that means that part of the circuit works.

If both of those are true = means your relay is bad or the relay is not making contact to slot 30 or 87 slots it plugs into.

You swapped a working relay into this spot, leads me to believe the plug wires in slots 30 or 87 are not making contact to the relay.

Do the contacts that the relays plug into for the heater and the starter look the same ?
Yes sir
 

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