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Member
- Joined
- Aug 26, 2009
- Messages
- 48
- Reaction score
- 1
- Points
- 8
- Location
- New Jersey USA
- Vehicle Year
- 1998
- Make / Model
- Mazda
- Engine Size
- 4.0
- Transmission
- Manual
Poked around the forums again and finally decided to do it. Called local Ford and they sell the whole heater box ($275.00) not the blend door alone. I looked at the metal version see on-line : http://www.heatertreater.net/
I decided to use the RockAuto Dorman door for under $ 50 (has metal top post).
http://dormanproducts.com/p-48336-902-221.aspx?year=1998&make=MAZDA%20TRUCK&model=B4000&engine=V6%20%2D%204%2E0L%20%284016%20CC%29%3A%20GAS%3A%20FI%3A%20N%3A%20X&parttype=HVAC%20Heater%20Blend%20Door
Used my Sears Dremel tool to cut hte bottom and mine was a splits shaft on top at the blend motor shaft end. S.o.B to get the old door out but did. Now here is the tricky part that the instructions of the door don't really highlight.
Unlike the metal door from heatertreater, Dorman door is OE style and the ends are stationary. I greased the bottom and top pivot parts of the door. THEN.....grease the INSIDE of the heater box around the area of the hole that will accept the metal top end. When you insert the new door into the bottom cut hole of the heater box, put in the bottom tab FIRST the you are going to have to FORCE the door towards the hole on top (I kept right hand fingers in hole to judge locale. You can force up on the heater box top to "give" more play in the housing plastic. KEY is to GREASE the INSIDE TOP of HEATER BOX NEAR HOLE.....
I did not cut the whole triangle shape out I left some plastic to swing down then back up when applying the foil tape that come with the door...then covered with Gorilla Tape.
I decided to use the RockAuto Dorman door for under $ 50 (has metal top post).
http://dormanproducts.com/p-48336-902-221.aspx?year=1998&make=MAZDA%20TRUCK&model=B4000&engine=V6%20%2D%204%2E0L%20%284016%20CC%29%3A%20GAS%3A%20FI%3A%20N%3A%20X&parttype=HVAC%20Heater%20Blend%20Door
Used my Sears Dremel tool to cut hte bottom and mine was a splits shaft on top at the blend motor shaft end. S.o.B to get the old door out but did. Now here is the tricky part that the instructions of the door don't really highlight.
Unlike the metal door from heatertreater, Dorman door is OE style and the ends are stationary. I greased the bottom and top pivot parts of the door. THEN.....grease the INSIDE of the heater box around the area of the hole that will accept the metal top end. When you insert the new door into the bottom cut hole of the heater box, put in the bottom tab FIRST the you are going to have to FORCE the door towards the hole on top (I kept right hand fingers in hole to judge locale. You can force up on the heater box top to "give" more play in the housing plastic. KEY is to GREASE the INSIDE TOP of HEATER BOX NEAR HOLE.....
I did not cut the whole triangle shape out I left some plastic to swing down then back up when applying the foil tape that come with the door...then covered with Gorilla Tape.
