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98-99 4wd wheel bearings


phyd3ux

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I've looked over the forums, and tech articles and cant seem to find the answer to my question. So if someone could point me in the right direction, I'd appreciate it.
I have a 99 4.0 4wd xlt, it has pvh hubs, the bearings in the wheel assembly are going out, my question is: Can I replace the bearings alone? or do I need the whole assembly? The bearings listed on rock auto are between 4-12 bucks, the assembly, listed at my local autozone is around 240.00, I know this may seem stupid to some, I would consider myself somewhat mechanically inclined, but this is the dumbest setup I've ever seen.
Also, I have the option to buy a couple wheel axles and assembly's for a 99 explorer, but which parts would be interchangeable if any? would it be as easy as swapping the hub assembly? or would the whole axle and differential need to be swapped?
For what this truck's used for, and for as little as I use 4wd, and my budget being very low. Im trying to keep it simple.
Use small words, I'm not all that bright.
also, is there anywhere to buy original locking hubs, or what's the best idea for replacing them.. as far as quality on the cheap, It snows here, thats about the only time I use it, well, maybe two dirt road camping type trips a year. I cant see going for the Warn type on this.
:icon_surprised:
Thanks,
-Ryan
 
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Rock Auto 5% Discount Code: 70D65189E6D8FF: January 5th, 2022

don4331

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I had a PVH hub die (and h8 them to begin with) so I made this conversion the past weekend. (If you wanted the good PVH hub and the 2 experienced unit bearings from my truck you could have them for price of shipping but Calgary to SLC probably isn't worth it...)

For '98+ Rangers, you need to replace the whole unit bearing. They are designed for fast installation in factory - no adjustment necessary. I won't say anything more...

http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/99hubswap.shtml

You need:
2 - Front shafts (CV joint to CV joint) from 2nd Gen Explorer: '95-'01 or '01-'11 Ranger shafts.
2- Unit bearings for same (they will be ~$100ea new); experienced ones less, those from Explorer should fit.

I did not remove the steering knuckle from lower ball joint as suggested in step 5 as I found I could remove the axle from the knuckle without doing so.

p.s. There isn't a Warn solution for '98+; or I would have done that instead as I don't like driving the front axle/drive shaft continuously...
 

phyd3ux

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so.. you have the original outer hub plastic parts too? I wonder what the shipping on that alone would be. I could print out a stamp and mail it to you, toss it in a box, send it. Along with some canadian beer.
In slc, (except for when the olympics came) theres' only 3.2 beer, you can go to one of four state liquor stores and by warm malt liquor, they're warm so you don't consume them on the ride home. and hard booze, they're closed sunday, and open from 10 AM Till 7PM weekdays. But in 2002, for a few weeks, it was awesome, there was even a beer garden. Then riots broke out, rubber bullets yada yada.
I only bring that up, because this stupid truck situation is costing me a lot of beer, in having friends come over, tear into it, say its broken and there's only one answer for a permanent fix money. and more beer, which here costs more, and takes twice as much.
All kidding aside,
so if I walk into a parts store, and the guy behind the counter asks.. I'd need two factory made wheel assemblies, and two "milemarker" hubs?
this is what I get:
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/search.oap?keyword=hubs&year=1999&make=Ford&model=Ranger&vi=5014835
thats hubs,
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/search.oap?keyword=hub+assembly&year=1999&make=Ford&model=Ranger&vi=5014835
thats wheels,
its got 4wd abs too. but that's built in, looks like. The wiring I mean.
I lost the explorer option, but if theres another one I'd need the hubs and cv axles too, correct? Would the 95 eploder have something similar, or did they have pvh?
Thank you so much for your response.
I changed the bearings in my 94, that wasn't difficult, how do they figure this is easier. gotta be a money deal, these are made to fail. Sad, because I love Rangers, that's all I've owned, there good for the novice, easy to find parts. except these damn things. I think the wheel hub end will make it a few hundred miles, but it definitely doesn't spin correctly, gets hot, and makes a funky, but quit, noise. But there not loose like normal failure.
thanks
-ryan
p.s., just the pvh outer plastic hubs wouldn't be too much in shipping, I dont think, I'm looking at eighty-bucks a piece, and thats used.. for the original, mine is shatered on the freeway somewhere, i hit a rock or something to crack it, then it feel off. I'd buy you a beer.
 
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don4331

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So, you want a package like this?

The pvh hub weighs nothing. Make me an offer and it will be in mail; was working just fine when it came out(I'm guessing it was original, so just under 160k kms on it). I'll weigh the bearings and let you know their cost to ship.

My issue: the Mileage Maker manual hub cost ~$120 (* 2) <Summit> + shipping from USA + bearing (as splines were ruined like the one shown in tech section - http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/images/avm_hubs/wheelhuboring.JPG).

For lower cost, I could get 2 bearings (Explorer/Newer Ranger style) and I had the Explorer axles from my 5.0 conversion. You, too, could probably get the Explorer axles ('95-'01 Explorer/'00-11 Ranger - the Explorers are dime a dozen in local PicknPull) & bearings for less than manual hubs.

Then like OEM, just turn the switch and have 4x4; no getting out in mud,snow, etc.

No comment on the why unit bearings.

One beer was sacrificed in the creation of this post.
 
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phyd3ux

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omg, those are really really, i've heard of them, but never... I gotta get my mormon neighbors over quick to see this.. would a few cuban cigars fit up axles? big money here... just saying..
anyhow. my laptops taking a shit, I've typed thirteen msg.. keeps erasing, can you call or text 8016336012? I'm tired and out of thinking power. I do need one hub now, if you've owned those.. and now how they've been used, that would be smarter than pick n' pull. here.. theres slim pickens.. occasionally they have things, but they are gone quick. let me know. if you get me shipping weights, i've got some stamps dot com stickers, and funds i need to use, i could print and send that. right, sleep.
-ryan
 

mdixon

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from experience just swap to a '00 or newer style hub and cv. i destroyed 2 sets of mile marker hubs in 8 months. stripped 1 out and seized the other. the live axle setup will cost u 2-3 mpgs but its well worth the aggravation of trying to get your mile marker hubs warrantied when they disentigrate off-road.
Off-roading isnt covered in the warranty, go figure.
 

phyd3ux

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Ive heard they're no good, but on the 4.0 Im getting about ten miles per gallon. and for the few times i use it, Im not sure a live axle is a good Idea. I've read about making the vacuum type into live axles, but I just cant bring myself to do it, I'd like to just get ahold of the outer plastic peices of pig shit. through this winter, then go from there, this truck has over 200000 miles, it was getting around six mpg at first, but Ive fixed all vacuumhoses, new idle air control, new position sensor for the throttle.. Im up to ten to eleven, I've heard 14 even nineteen is posible, the engine it's self is in good shape, tranny, brand new. Engine has good pressure. no misses. ignition, charging, all work.. ac is jerry rigged, that's blown my mind, two new o2 sensors.. I have a scan tool.. and a buddy who's explained it all, I had a 94 and now 99. a comparable toyota... joke. But to me, risking the mpg, when im not sure ill be using 4wd a lot, is a tough sell. and the process.. I think I understand, but not sure. the cv's forward to the hubs, including wheel, bearings, etc.. would be all I need to swap right? Its doable,my plastic hub shattered on the freeway, not while off road. it simply fell off. when I jacked the wheel up to change the brake pads, I noticed it doesn't feel right, not free moving like the other side. idk, getting frustrated, I do like having four wheel drive, winters here can be bad.
 

phyd3ux

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sorry, I didn't mean, that mile marker hubs would be ok because they fell apart on the freeway, just saying, the plastic clips that hold the 99 locking part on, are stupid, I also noticed that the brake bolt, the two that hold the caliper on.. they've been vibrating loose, or something, only on that side, yes, I use locktight, and the correct tightening specs those. like the assembly itself vibrates those loose. something weird's going on. don't get me wrong, i keep all options on the table, a lot depends on funds at the time. thanks,
btw is there a part of the site explaining the way the cv's lock.. meaning are they pushed forward into the wheel assemble, or just spin when the transfer case spins. so when the transfer case locks, it transfers straight through, someone mentioned a vacuum assist?? something.. idk.
 


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