'98 4x4- How to replace lower ball joints without messing with torsion bars?

[GearheadGrrrl]

Doing some rehab work on my Ranger, Only 92k miles on it and the cab is pretty rust free so I've got the cab and box off so I can go through everything mechanical and repaint the frame so it'll be good for a few more decades. The ball joints aren't worn but the rubber covers are shot so I figure may as well replace them. Got the upper control arms off OK but now it's gotten complicated- I don't have any need to mess with the torsion bars but both Chilton and Haynes agree they need to come out to get the lower control arms out. Chilton says I need a 2 arm puller to take the torque off the torsion bar and Haynes says don't even think about trying it. That leaves me to wondering- The ball joints are held in by a circlip as well as rust, maybe I can replace them with the lower control arms still on the truck? Any suggestions?

 

[gw33gp]

I had a difficult time replacing the lower ball joints with the lower control arm off and in a press. I imagine it is not impossible to do it on the truck but you would need some pretty specific tools to do it. If I had to do it again, I would buy new lower control arms with the new ball joints in them.

 

[Bgunner]

There is a tool you can rent to press them in and out called a Ball Joint Press. I have done enough Ball joints to purchase my own. This press will allow you to do it installed on the truck.

Ball Joint Service Kit for 2WD and 4WD Vehicles

Amazing deals on this Balljoint Srvc Kit 2Wd And 4Wd Vehicles at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.

www.harborfreight.com

 

[pjtoledo]

us seasoned knuckle busters can replace the lower ball joints without touching a torsion bar.
the hardest part is getting the correct tool/collar to support the ball joint ridge from below so the new one can be pressed in.
the collar needs to be deeper than the stud.
that's why they make ball joint press kits.

support the frame with a jackstand, and put a jack under the lower control arm.
remove steering knuckle. you may be able to get by with swinging it out of the way, probably not.
leave the shock in place, that keeps the control arm from dropping too far.
remove circle clip, press joint down to remove.
hint: look at the ridge on the new joint, don't use that while removing, do use it when installing.

there is a trick to using a ball joint press. when you crank like hell and it doesn't seem to be moving smack the end of the bolt with a hammer.
that extra shock load can break the rust bond.

I'm in the rust belt and have replaced several sets of lowers on the vehicle with my 2 Rangers.

 

[Dirtman]

I don't think I've ever removed the lower control arm to do a ball joint on either a coil or torsion truck (unless it also needed bushings).

Like @pjtoledo said you just need the right adapters for the press, and sometimes it is like putting together a puzzle trying to stack the right adapters before you can start cranking down. When you buy a ball joint press always buy one with a master adapter set and not just one with a couple cups.

And as always... penetrating fluid is your friend...

 

[1996xlt]

Removal of the lower ball joints (once the steering knuckle is off) is actually quite easy; remove the snap ring (if it has one) just hit in the center of it with a hammer. As long as it's not rust-ceased in place they usually pop out after a few good hits and with the torsion bar still in place absorbs some of the impact.

The ball joint press is required for install of the new units.

 

[Dirtman]

Removal of the lower ball joints (once the steering knuckle is off) is actually quite easy; remove the snap ring (if it has one) just hit in the center of it with a hammer. As long as it's not rust-ceased in place they usually pop out after a few good hits and with the torsion bar still in place absorbs some of the impact.

The ball joint press is required for install of the new units.

Up here in rust country they never come out that easy. even with the press on them there is usually still beating involved.

 

[Uncle Gump]

I have not replaced a set of lower ball joints on a SLA front Ranger... yet.

My plan is to just leave the control arm in place and use my ball joint press to press out the old... press in the new. As long as the bushing are good anyway. I've done many on other vehicles and I'm thinking they can be done on this one too.

They do sell just urethane boots... maybe you could just replace the boots?

It seems many just replace the entire lower control arms... which will have new ball joints and bushing already installed.

I had posted this on the very same question you asked in another new thread. I'm going to leave my reply here and delete the other thread you started.

You typically only need to post the same exact question once... let it soak a bit to get your answers.

Good luck!

EDIT... I also moved this post to the 4WD suspension forum.

 

[pjtoledo]

Removal of the lower ball joints (once the steering knuckle is off) is actually quite easy; remove the snap ring (if it has one) just hit in the center of it with a hammer. As long as it's not rust-ceased in place they usually pop out after a few good hits and with the torsion bar still in place absorbs some of the impact.

The ball joint press is required for install of the new units.

now that the hammer method has been mentioned....

on more than 1 occasion I placed a 5 ton hydraulic jack under the control arm to support it then wacked on the ball joint.
for installation I put the jack under the ball joint, with make-shift adapters, and carefully hammered the control arm down onto the ball joint.

since then I did acquire a real ball joint tool kit.

bonus round: to relieve the tension on the torsion bar replace the shock absorber with a 1/2" threaded rod. have at least 6" extra top & bottom.
do that with the wheel on, and on the ground !!
I drilled a hole in a 3/4 pipe for the lower cross, used several greased washers top & bottom, then used a 1" long coupling nut to spread the load on the rod.
grease the rod, and a ratchet wrench will work best.
you will need the frame high enough for the control arm to swing almost straight down.

as a safety I bolted a chain between the control arm and frame and lengthened it 1 link at a time as the control arm lowered.


how's that for a shadetree special?

 

[GearheadGrrrl]

I had posted this on the very same question you asked in another new thread. I'm going to leave my reply here and delete the other thread you started.

You typically only need to post the same exact question once... let it soak a bit to get your answers.

Good luck!

EDIT... I also moved this post to the 4WD suspension forum.

My apology for posting in the wrong thread, I was late catching my mistake and posted in the right thread, I should have deleted the post in the wrong thread.