'98 ~ '11 2 Wheel Drive Ball Joints

[-Nate]

O.K., I've searched and searched, all I find is 4X4 threads .

I have a 2001 XL base model with 117,000 miles, the ball joints are fine but, the boots rotted away and I recently spent some time in Death Valley where there was a sand storm......

So ~ I look Online and see control arms and press in ball joints, my 100 % stock and original truck handles really well, any reason to buy the adjustable upper control arms ? .

Any reason not to ? .

I have no idea where my ball joint press is so should I even bother to buy press in joints ? .

I plan to buy the greasable ones, any thoughts , suggestion or links to DIY threads here or elsewhere are greatly appreciated .

 

[Dirtman]

Is it coil spring or torsion bar suspension?

 

[-Nate]

Coil springs .

 

[Dirtman]

On my 09 2wd coil spring truck which I assume is the same setup as yours, the upper ball joints are not replaceable. They cannot be pressed out since they are cast into the control arm. You have to replace the upper control arm and ball joint as a single piece. The only "adjustable" control arms I've seen (2 piece design) are the ones for the torsion bar suspension which is completely different.

The lower ball joints are a different story, those just press in like normal.

 

[-Nate]

Thank you .

No links to threads having done this ? .

I can't be the only one who uses an old truck for regular work...

 

[sgtsandman]

Ball joints are pretty straight forward and basic work to most of us. That is probably why there really isn't much posted about it.

4X4 or RWD, the comments Dirtman made applies.

I find the best kit to do the majority of the work is these kits.

Ball Joint Service Kit for 2WD and 4WD Vehicles

Amazing deals on this Balljoint Srvc Kit 2Wd And 4Wd Vehicles at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.

www.harborfreight.com

Front End Service Tool Set, 5 Piece

Amazing deals on this Front End Service Tool Set 5Pc at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.

www.harborfreight.com

Plus basic hand tools, a floor jack, and some jack stands.

 

[Dirtman]

None that I know of unfortunately. When I did mine I didn't bother taking any pics sorry. Upper control arms are a piece of cake, 3 bolts per side and some wiggling then just slap the new ones in and go get an alignment.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

None that I know of unfortunately. When I did mine I didn't bother taking any pics sorry. Upper control arms are a piece of cake, 3 bolts per side and some wiggling then just slap the new ones in and go get an alignment.

Note where it was adjusted to and try to set the new parts the same way.

I was really careful when I did my F-150 and inlcluding TRE's the toe was off 1/2 of a degree. That was it. Still gotta have it checked but there is no reason to burn up tires getting it to the alignment shop.

 

[cbxer55]

I replaced mine in 2018. Replaced both the upper and lower control arms rather than just doing the ball joints. Bought the parts from NAPA. Didn't take any pictures though. Friend helped me. PITA but a lot better than removing and replacing the ball joints. And now I have grease fittings on the entire front end. ;-)

 

[Dirtman]

Note where it was adjusted to and try to set the new parts the same way.

I was really careful when I did my F-150 and inlcluding TRE's the toe was off 1/2 of a degree. That was it. Still gotta have it checked but there is no reason to burn up tires getting it to the alignment shop.

Oh I agree, You just mark the cam bolt when you remove the upper control arms and put it back where it was. You still need to get an alignment but like you said you at least have it close enough to get you there. There isn't a ton of adjustment on the upper control arms though so even if you do forget and put the new ones on blindly you're not gonna be TOO bad.

 

[cbxer55]

We marked mine and put it back together like it came apart. Haven't had it aligned in two years. Tires are wearing great.

 

[-Nate]

THANK YOU ALL ! .

For some reason I wasn't getting notified of replies, it looks O.K. now .

FWIW, unless everything's worn out or bent, you shouldn't need more than 1/8" of toe in on anything .

Maybe a decent amount of caster if you like to drive spiritedly as caster is what returns the front wheels to center quickly after turns .

 

[Eddo Rogue]

Thank you .

No links to threads having done this ? .

I can't be the only one who uses an old truck for regular work...

Probably not many because upper control arms is pretty easy compared to ball joints....or at least requires a smaller hammer, maybe even just a pry bar. I would rather swap control arms than ball joints. You could probably find a youtube video.

 

[cbxer55]

Th

FWIW, unless everything's worn out or bent, you shouldn't need more than 1/8" of toe in on anything .

Maybe a decent amount of caster if you like to drive spiritedly as caster is what returns the front wheels to center quickly after turns .

That was the only thing I did on mine. After the rebuild, it was eating the outer corners, where prior to the rebuild it was eating the inner corners. I backed off the outer tie rod ends one turn each, and it's been fine ever since. Just eyeballing it, the tires looked like they had too much toe in. I do drive my Ranger spiritedly. Nice endless curvy road a few miles away, it's my private race track. Also either of my two bikes, my Mustang or Lightning. They're all great on that road.

 

[mikkelstuff]

Don't buy a ball joint press! I bought one off Amazon and it simply could not press in the new ball joints (2002 4WD Ranger) even with a 4' cheater. Then I rented one from NAPA which easily did the job - and no rental charge, only a returnable deposit.

Then I passed on the Amazon ball joint press via craigslist. Suppose I should feel bad about that (hee hee) but it was spotless and the buyer said it was exactly what he wanted.