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97 2.3 starts but stalls at idle


dgaskins216

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1997
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Ford ranger 2.3
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I have a 97 2.3 ranger that has started having some problems recently, It started with staring rough and sputtering a little when cold out, then it got to where it would stall when you shifted into gear unless it was warm or you gave it some gas at the same time as shifting. here recently it doesn't want to stay running at all unless you are giving it gas, at every red light or stop sign it stalls. when in motion it runs great. I just changed the spark plugs, air filter, fuel filter, and iac and fuel pump is less than 5 months old. took it to a family friend mechanic and he is completely stumped as to what I could be. it is throwing the following codes p0172, fuel system rich bank 1, p1121 tp sensor inconsistent with MAF, p1504 iac circuit malfunction, and there was another one for iac over speed that I can't remember the code for, I should also add I replaced PVC valve and grommet and repaired any vaccuum leaks I could find. another weird thing is it tries to run a little better if I pinch the vacuum hose coming from the bottom of the throttle body, I'm new to this so sorry if I didn't explain it well. I just can't figure out why it keeps flooding itself out, any ideas?? thank you in advance
 

dgaskins216

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Ford ranger 2.3
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I should also probably add I did adjust what I thought was the idle screw to turn the idle up a little bit and that helped for a little but now idle does not change when unplugging the iac, I did verify power at the iac plug.. I think... one side lit up the rest light
 

SenorNoob

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2WD / 4WD
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1.5" Front + 4" Rear
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245-70-R16
Based on those codes, I'd suspect bad wiring somewhere near the IAC / TPS. It could be anywhere between either of them and computer. Could even be in the fuel injector circuit. TBH there are so many codes it's hard to pin down.
Now that you have those recorded, can you clear them and read again?
 

dgaskins216

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I'm at work right this second but will do when I get back home to it, if it does end up being a wiring issue any ideas as to how to trace that down to where the problem is?
 

SenorNoob

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1.5" Front + 4" Rear
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I saw you mention a test light. Do you have a multimeter? It could prove helpful IF you have to start checking wiring.

On a 97, can your code reader view PIDs? That would give you a better idea of what the computer thinks is going on.
 

dgaskins216

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I saw you mention a test light. Do you have a multimeter? It could prove helpful IF you have to start checking wiring.

On a 97, can your code reader view PIDs? That would give you a better idea of what the computer thinks is going on.
I do have a multimeter, I'm not sure what a pid is. but it does read rpms vehicle speed, O2 sensors and fuel trims and a few other things of that nature
 

SenorNoob

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That's what I was talking about.
 

dgaskins216

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That's what I was talking about.
oh well then yes it does lol sorry, I know my fuel trims are cut way back like -25% because it's running so rich it's just flooding itself at idle
 

SenorNoob

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That sounds pretty serious. So you do have WAY too much fuel. Pull the vaccum line to the Fuel Pressure Regulator and see if it's leaking fuel into the intake. That costs nothing to check. If you have a fuel pressure tester you can check the rail pressure. Although I suspect a leaky regulator is more likely than one stuck with high pressure. I would do a visual for wiring on the intake rubbing if that doesn't turn up anything.

Edit: Also look on your code reader for some kind of reading on throttle position. If you can watch it while slowly pressing the throttle from idle to full throttle that would be awesome.
 

dgaskins216

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That sounds pretty serious. So you do have WAY too much fuel. Pull the vaccum line to the Fuel Pressure Regulator and see if it's leaking fuel into the intake. That costs nothing to check. If you have a fuel pressure tester you can check the rail pressure. Although I suspect a leaky regulator is more likely than one stuck with high pressure. I would do a visual for wiring on the intake rubbing if that doesn't turn up anything.
I will double check when I get home but I know before I took it to the mechanic I pulled off the vacuum line and there was an ever so faint smell of gas but it wasn't wet and there wasn't a strong smell, I'll have to buy a pressure tester, thank you for your help by the way!
 

dgaskins216

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South Carolina
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Automatic
I will double check when I get home but I know before I took it to the mechanic I pulled off the vacuum line and there was an ever so faint smell of gas but it wasn't wet and there wasn't a strong smell, I'll have to buy a pressure tester, thank you for your help by the way!
I should add the truck was off when checking, does that matter?
 

SenorNoob

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Make / Model
Ford
Engine Type
4.0 V6
Engine Size
4.0
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
1.5" Front + 4" Rear
Tire Size
245-70-R16
I wish I could be more help. I'm not as familiar with the newer trucks as I need to be. I've been too lazy to learn.

Edit: I would probably pull that line and cycle the key a couple times. Be prepared just in case it sprays fuel tho. (Cold engine and pointed away from you.)
 

dgaskins216

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I wish I could be more help. I'm not as familiar with the newer trucks as I need to be. I've been too lazy to learn.

Edit: I would probably pull that line and cycle the key a couple times. Be prepared just in case it sprays fuel tho. (Cold engine and pointed away from you.)
okay will def look into it and reply when I can thanks!
 

scotts90ranger

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If it is pulling out fuel then there is either an issue with the MAF sensor, fuel injectors, fuel pressure or oxygen sensor most likely. If there's extra fuel (from a failed fuel injector or too high fuel pressure for some reason or a bad fuel pressure regulator) that can make it idle lower and worse. An air leak or bad MAF sensor would cause the fuel trim values to be high not low normally so I wouldn't think it would be that. Even an oxygen sensor when they fail usually show low voltage so will add fuel.

At this point I would probably look at the wires for the oxygen sensor which start at the rear of the valve cover then go down to the sensor, if the wires have somehow hit the exhaust that could cause this. From there I would pull the vacuum line off the fuel pressure regulator on the front of the fuel rail and see if there's any fuel there which there shouldn't be. After that I would pull the passenger side spark plugs and see if one of them is has carbon buildup or wetness on it from fuel which would point at that injector.
 

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