97 2.3 clutch bleeding

[3ncrypt3d]

Hey, just replaced the slave cylinder, hydraulic line, and the clutch/flywheel in my truck. Now for the life of me, I can’t get the clutch to disengage enough to shift into gear at all. I did the method listed on this site of gravity bleeding it, and I tried that. Fluid is coming out fine, no bubbles. I can see the slave moving, but it’s only moving about a 1/2 inch, maybe a little bit less. This is my first clutch install, and I’m pretty sure I did everything correctly. Novice question, but can you install the pressure plate backwards too? I don’t remember seeing a front/back on the plate. I installed it with the completely flat side forwards the flywheel, and the raised side to the rear. If anyone could give me bleeding tips, or correct me if I did anything wrong it would be greatly appreciated.

 

[adsm08]

I do not see how you could install a pressure plate backwards. You'd have to be a special kind of special to manage it, which means someone somewhere probably has accomplished it.

There is a U in the hydraulic line where air gets trapped. The only good way I have found to bleed these lines from dry is with the slave cylinder above the master, which usually means bleeding before installing. I am betting you didn't do that.

 

[RonD]

Also check your Clutch kit parts

Rangers need a Self adjusting pressure plate(SAC), because there is no external adjustment.

If you install a regular pressure plate, cheaper, then it will be hard to disengage the NEW thick clutch disc, then as the clutch disc wears down it will get easier and clutch will disengage and engage higher and higher in pedal travel until disc gets too thin and it starts to slip

The SAC pressure plate keeps pedal in the middle of its travel throughout the life of the clutch disc.
So look at the parts you got to see "what you got"
SAC pressure plate has springs around the back side, picture here: https://i.ytimg.com/vi/G422DCl_2ew/maxresdefault.jpg

Regular pressure plate will not have those 3 springs in that picture

And yes as adsm08 said it could be air in the master or line, if you have self adjusting pressure plate

 

[3ncrypt3d]

I do not see how you could install a pressure plate backwards. You'd have to be a special kind of special to manage it, which means someone somewhere probably has accomplished it.

There is a U in the hydraulic line where air gets trapped. The only good way I have found to bleed these lines from dry is with the slave cylinder above the master, which usually means bleeding before installing. I am betting you didn't do that.

That’s what I figured. Just wanting to check all my bases. No, I didn’t bleed it outside. I didn’t even think of that. I’ll try moving line around to try and break loose some air.

Also check your Clutch kit parts

Rangers need a Self adjusting pressure plate(SAC), because there is no external adjustment.

If you install a regular pressure plate, cheaper, then it will be hard to disengage the NEW thick clutch disc, then as the clutch disc wears down it will get easier and clutch will disengage and engage higher and higher in pedal travel until disc gets too thin and it starts to slip

The SAC pressure plate keeps pedal in the middle of its travel throughout the life of the clutch disc.
So look at the parts you got to see "what you got"
SAC pressure plate has springs around the back side, picture here: https://i.ytimg.com/vi/G422DCl_2ew/maxresdefault.jpg

Regular pressure plate will not have those 3 springs in that picture

And yes as adsm08 said it could be air in the master or line, if you have self adjusting pressure plate

Yep, it’s a self adjusting one. Is there a way to bleed the master without taking everything back apart?

 

[fastpakr]

Yes. Unbolt it from the firewall and partially invert it. You should be able to find instructions for the procedure by searching the site. It's been discussed a few times over the years.

 

[3ncrypt3d]

Yes. Unbolt it from the firewall and partially invert it. You should be able to find instructions for the procedure by searching the site. It's been discussed a few times over the years.

Tried that, and it did help. But, I still couldn't get the clutch to fully disengage. I found some old electric vacuum pumps, and rigged it to one of those single person brake bleeder kits. That pulled out a ton of air, and that seems to have fixed my issues. So my personal opinion, gravity bleed it and then use a vacuum pump. Thanks for all the help!

 

[Denisefwd93]

Tried that, and it did help. But, I still couldn't get the clutch to fully disengage. I found some old electric vacuum pumps, and rigged it to one of those single person brake bleeder kits. That pulled out a ton of air, and that seems to have fixed my issues. So my personal opinion, gravity bleed it and then use a vacuum pump. Thanks for all the help!

30 years... 7 Pontiacs with hydraulic clutches.. one of the worst of all time set ups was the front MC and rear SC on Fiero. If only.... they made this for that! And the cost at Rock Auto (supports TRS also) was not much different than the components bought separately!

http://www.amsautomotive.com/pre-filled-hydraulic-systems

We did transmission swap in my current and 2nd ranger. I can't yell loud enough how much aggravation a pre bled set up saved me!

 

[scotts90ranger]

Another trick that's saved me time in the past and does work, even though it sounds stupid... clutch pedal to the floor, slip your foot off... several times... this pulls the air out of the system... A Vacuum pump is much cooler though.