96 Rotor Removal

[northrwl]

96 Ranger Super Cab 3.0
I'm pretty sure I have a Dana 28 in a 35 Carrier.
I'm trying to replace the wheel bearings. It appers to me that the caliper mounting plate (anchor plate) must come off to remove the rotor.
First off, is this true?
Assuming it is, I have not been able to break the bolts loose that hold the mounting plate. Probably never been off (125K miles). Tried penetrating oil to no avail. Wrenches, hammers, cheater bars...still no go. I'm afraid to heat this as there is too much rubber around. Can't fit my impact tool in there. Really agravating. Anyone have any ideas before I give up and take it to my mechanic?
Thanks

 

[AllanD]

Just be aware that most auto parts will try to sell you Dana 28 bearings which won't fit anything newer than an early 1990.

Yes, you probably do have a "Hybred D28/35" (unless your axle code ends in 6)


Yes, the caliper brackets do need to come off.

AD

 

[bilzy7]

All I can say is pb blaster and breaker cheater bar combo. Had to do that for bed bolts though it did crap for me trying to adjust torsion bars. One is completely seized and roasted one of my tires. I know your pain...

 

[Guilius]

i feel your pain.
first time i took mine off we let it soak overnight in PB Blaster and then hit it with heat. they come from factory with thread locker...apprently Ford thinks this part should not come off easy

keep at it. im sure it will come loose eventually.

 

[northrwl]

So, AllanD, you're telling me I must have the Dana 35 Bearings/seals? I did not go to the auto store, but I ordered the wrong ones online myself! (I ordered the Dana 28 bearings). This proves I'm no smarter than the parts guys...
Of course, I cannot get the friggin anchor plates off anyhow...

 

[northrwl]

Done

This wasn't that hard once I figured out that you need to turn the steering wheel to get good access to the anchor plate bolts (duh!). I guess this was a senior moment.

Once I figured that out, a 15mm 6-point and an 18 inch torque wrench got them right out!