Test your battery voltage, you may not have an AMPs needed with that voltage reading
Key on engine off
Battery should read 12.3 to 12.8volts
Blue/black wire should read exactly the same as battery voltage
Not 11.9v
Power windows are pretty easy to diagnose
They use a 12volt DC motor
Motor has 2 wires
When 1 wire is 12v and the other wire a Ground then motor turns clockwise and window goes up
If you reverse the 12v and ground on the 2 motor wires then it turns counter clockwise and window goes down
So on any power window setup the switch in Neutral has BOTH wires grounded
When you move the switch ONE WIRE is disconnected from ground and given 12volts, so motor turns
Move switch the other way and the OTHER WIRE is ungrounded and gets 12v so motor turns the other way
Very straight forward
The master controls the 2 grounds on passenger side switch
So same thing happens, when master is moved ONE WIRE is disconnected from ground and given 12volts so motor turns
The passenger side needs its own 12volts for this master/slave thing to work, and 11.9v seems pretty low in a static test
These Motors can draw 5-7amps, which is alot
If blue/black wire is corroded or damaged it may have some voltage but can not pass enough amps
Lower voltage than "battery voltage" is a sign of that
You can try an active test
Plug connector into passenger switch
Put volt meter on blue/black and ground meter, should see that 11.9v, then press switch, if it "drops like a rock" to under 8v then wire or it connection is damaged
Master works because if has full 12v amps on its wire and sends that over to passenger side motor when its used