(96 Ranger 3.0L V6 gauge and light problems


ericbphoto

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Thanks. Google is what I was going to do next. I should have searched first before asking but I haven't had good luck searching on google for ranger infrmation in the past because there were so many variations. Even the people at the dealership have given me bad info. A young woman at the Ford dealer parts desk once told me there was no such thing as a 96 ranger xlt 3.0L. She was very confident of it.
Well, wasn't she funny?
 


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Uncle Gump

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Well… I was thinking she must be really cute?
 

cbxer55

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Thanks. Google is what I was going to do next. I should have searched first before asking but I haven't had good luck searching on google for ranger infrmation in the past because there were so many variations. Even the people at the dealership have given me bad info. A young woman at the Ford dealer parts desk once told me there was no such thing as a 96 ranger xlt 3.0L. She was very confident of it.
Did you tell the dingbat to "come outside, I'll fucking show you one!" Because that is exactly what I would have done. The look of disdain on her face being proven wrong would be PRICELESS. LMAO!!
 

98v70dad

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2WD / 4WD
2WD
Did you tell the dingbat to "come outside, I'll fucking show you one!" Because that is exactly what I would have done. The look of disdain on her face being proven wrong would be PRICELESS. LMAO!!
Yes, actually, I did and she said she didn't believe me over the computer and didn't have time to look. I've gotten nothing but bad info from the parts desk at my local ford dealer. I usually don't shop there unless I can't find something anywhere else. I haven't bought anything from them since I had my crown vic. about 20 years ago. My other ancient car was a 98 v70 volvo station wagon. The parts desk at the local volvo dealer was unbelievably good.
 

98v70dad

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So, the ranger is still parked because I can't find the short. I've finally accepted that I'm going to have to remove the gauge cluster again - PITA. Anyhow, when I had it out to replace the check engine light bulb I couldn't figure out how to unhook the thread that moves the gear selector indicator. I messed with it awhile and gave up because I was afraid I would snap the thread.

Can anyone tell me how to unhook that without breaking it?
 

98v70dad

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Today I pulled out the gauge cluster and everything else on fuse 25 and I looked for evidence of a short. Couldn't find anything - no pinched insulation no burn marks - nada nada nada. The yellow and white wire in the bundle coming out of the gem goes direct to the battery. I paid especially close attention to that one.

I put the gem and the dome lights back in and stuck in a new fuse. Everything on fuse 25 works now and the fuse doesn't blow. Maybe the gauge cluster has a short since its the only thing still removed but that's hard to believe - a close inspection of it shows nothing. Is there a typical pace the gauge cluster shorts out?

I'm thinking of wrapping all the wires that cross steel framework under the dash with protective plastic tubing and putting it all back together. I would really appreciate any advice that gives me a better plan. Someone told me to find the short - apparently I removed it by moving the wires but I couldn't find anything.
 

98v70dad

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Anybody? The ranger is still parked and I've spent a lot of time looking for a short. I've eliminated everything but the gauge cluster and maybe the ignition switch. I don't know if the ignition switch is on the fuse 25 circuit or not. But, the door chime has been continuing to ring after turnng off the engine for months. Usually switching to the first position and back would fix it.

The ignition switch is now my prime suspect if its on the same circuit but I have no way of knowing for sure and its an expensive part. I have a tough time believing the gauge cluster will short internally... So, two questions...

1) If the gauge cluster shorts internally where does that usually happen?

2) Is the ignition switch (door chime function) on circuit fused by fuse 25?
 

98v70dad

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I'm still working this and would really like to get my truck back on the road. Last night I was researching this some more and was up late doing it. I suddenly remembered that a couple of weeks before I had the fuse blowing problem the odometer stopped working and then was working on and off. So, I figured maybe I have the torn up worm gear problem and it burned up the odometer motor and caused a short. Today I took the gauge cluster apart and there's nothing obvious wrong. I took the odometer motor out and the worm gear looks fine other than having some heavy goo on it that probably used to be grease.

The only thing I can find is a burned smell coming from the area near the odometer motor with all of the capacitors close to where the motor cable plugs into the board.

Can anyone give me some ideas about what to check or do next? All of my previous troubleshooting pointed to a short in the gauge cluster. Now I have found a burned smell in the gauge cluster but really don't know what to do with that information.
 


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