95 ranger SAS. giddy up

[Snurfer]

starting the SAS in two weeks once the rest of the 3 link parts show up. got most of the extra brackets grinded off and cleaned up on the axle.

im going to be running a HP d30 out of a 98 cherokee.
760x full clip u joints
99 WJ knuckles swap for cross over steering
cut, sleeved and shortened WJ tierod and drag link
03 WJ akebono big brake swap w/ dual piston calipers
02 sporttrac 4wd rotors
4 series carrier w/ 4.56s and an Aussie


3 linked with creeper joints on lower links at the frame.
adjustable DS upper link.
2 inch .250 wall DOM for upper and lowers.
new tranny crossmember

RS9000XL shocks up front.
7 inch EB coils


the dana 30 will be perfect for what i do. driving to college, work and in the snow every weekend at Mt. Hood. i wanted to keep it stock width, same bolt pattern and improve my terrible steering i have right now. its my DD so i need it to handle well on the road for the most part.

i know people hate mad hard on the dana 30 but i know it will suit my needs very well so thats why i went with this setup. my only concern was the stock brakes using smaller rotors and a single piston calipers so i addressed that issue accordingly.

release the picture whore!!!

 

[NMB2]

that passenger knuckle is cool. never knew they used those.

 

[dangerranger83]

I was told awhile back that the 99 and up Jeep cheeroke have better knuckles and dual piston brakes. I have never got to see them but from the looks of it, might be worth looking into.

I was also told that there isnt a difference in braking between the rangers brakes and the jeeps single caliper.

Did those 99 knuckles bolt right up to your axle?

Keep it up I'm watching this thread now.

 

[Snurfer]

everything bolted up to the stock XJ axle from the donor WJ truck. the only thing i had to get was the JKS spacers to correct the stub shaft u joint orientation to the WJ knuckles. otherwise the u joints on the XJ axles bind up. and the lower balljoint needs to be swapped out for a lower WJ balljoint since the taper is .5 degree per foot difference

i have access to a corp NAPA account and so i was able to get the braking components at a very good price. without that the brake swap could potentially be very expensive. the dual piston set will fare far better than the stock single piston setup that was originally on it. if i feel that i still need more braking power i will swap out the MC to a larger bore one.

 

[Snurfer]

got the axle fully built and painted. in the process of making my link tabs to my tranny cross member. as well as the upper and lower track bar mounts should have pictures up in the mornin.

what are you guys doing for a inexpensive extended rear brake line?
also the E brake extension i need to make is confusing me a bit. what did you guys do??

thanks

 

[GOODOLEBOY84]

I dunno if you know this or not, but i maybe wrong, doesnt those brake have a 5 on 5 bolt pattern instead of the 5 on 4.5, when i did that swap i had to use the cherokee bearing and hub and redrill my rotors for the correct bolt pattern.

 

[Snurfer]

youre right about the WJs having that bolt pattern. i used my xj hubs and rotors off of a 2002 sporttrac with WJ akeobono calipers and hangers to keep the same bolt pattern without having to redrill the the rotors.

 

[Roger]

Sport Trac rotors have the same back spacing as the WJ rotors? Great to know!!!

 

[Snurfer]

they almost do. i used a 3/16 steel shim in between the hanger and the caliper to center them over the rotor. just be sure to use loctite tape on the threads to prevent them from accidentally backing out. the xj hub needs to have a 1/16 machined off the outer rim of the flange that the studs are pressed into. this way anytime you need to change out rotors you wont need to have the WJ rotors machined out for the different bolt pattern.

2001-2002 explorer sporttrac 4x4 front rotors are what you'll need. mind you this only works with WJ brake conversion.

 

[Snurfer]

a little update

got the rest of my links, bushings, and steel today. the order came in a day later than expected from the offroad shop.

anyway i got the rear end lifted today. went fairly well. removed the overload leaf for a better ride. added drop shackles and my 4x4 blocks back in. not sure if this will be the final ride height or not. i might have to go up to the next hole in the shackle. we'll see after the front end goes in tomorrow. need to have a one piece driveshaft made at the end of the week so the carrier bearing doesnt blow apart. i cant find one damn ranger 1 piece shaft with 300 miles of Eugene!! fml. anywya here are some pictures of the rear lift.

before the lift (SAS)

during the rear lift

rear end finished

and just for giggles

more tomorrow. tearing out the old TTB and mocking the links and coils for the straight axle. probably gonna push the front forward another 1.5 inches or so.

 

[wahlstrom1]

gonna have to redo the links..... My 'puter lock's up when I tried, sorry.

 

[Sasquatch_Ryda]

If you can find a rear shaft out of a 4x4 sport trac it will fit as well (same dimensions as the ranger 1 piece shaft)

 

[Downey]

dude i want your motor and front ttb lift

 

[Snurfer]

andrew i fixed them so they should work now sorry about that. couldnt remember if it was HTML or IMG lol.

really a sport trac works too? do i need to get the output flange too? or will it work with my stock one? thats real good info to know!!

thanks for the compliments on the motor! its a lot of fun. gonna build a new 4.0 this summer and crank the boost up to about 9. trying to figure out an intercooler setup for it as well. the WRXs look so dope with a front mount, i need to have one lol

 

[wahlstrom1]

Oh, and if it's gonna cost ya more then $150 or so for a driveshaft (auto recycler price) you may be better off getting your stock shaft retubed to the proper length and with thicker wall material while your at it.