95 2.3l compatible transmissions

[changed_my_name]

I have a presumably high mile (od stoped at 182k) probably closer to 300k 1995 ford ranger 2.3l MT with the transmission growling in all gears but 4th so i assume the transmission is very worn and was wondering what cars/trucks used the same transmission engine combo so that i could keep my eye out for a good used one in my area between now and when it does fail. Since this is my first car and i dont drive it much its not a super big rush as the truck was a gift and other wise runs fine after i fixed or had fixed what had kept it sitting.

It would need to be a direct replacement since i would like to do it my self and keep the truck as stock as possible. I ask becuse I read that ford changed the engine for this year and that the tranmission had a specific mounting shape for each engine size.

 

[scotts90ranger]

To be a direct bolt in you need to keep pretty close to the same year, need to stay I think '94-97 to keep the same shifter since they moved the ball pivots 90 degrees at some point along with some geometry in the shifter area, but if you could grab the whole shifter I'm pretty sure you can get away with '92-97. I know the slave cylinder changed in '92, if the newer one bolts to the older transmissions you can use back to '88 if you grab the whole stick (they changed the stub and everything when they turned the pivot pins...)

 

[RonD]

Welcome to TRS

You have an M5OD-R1 manual transmission, aka M5R1
These have an integrated bellhousing(can't be removed), so you are correct, they are engine specific, even if they have the same model number for all Rangers after 1990

Yes, the input shaft gear is going out, its not used in 4th gear, it was a known issue mostly on the 2.3ls, but not at all a common issue, the M5R1 was very reliable, so used are not a bad gamble at all, just check the fluid
M5R1 uses ATF, yes......automatic transmission fluid in a MANUAL transmission, lol
People/shops often topped them up with Gear Oil, which causes hard shifting and poor lubrication, so higher wear

If its a 2WD(not 4x4) then you can use a 1989 thru 1997 M5R1 from a 2.3l Ranger or 1994-1997 Mazda B2300
Those are the only vehicles with 2.3l engine that used the M5R1s

Direct bolt in and these years had the speedometer output needed for your 1995, this was removed in 1998 and up Rangers

New clutch and slave of course, use 1995 model

 

[gearfather]

input and front gear on the counter burned up due to low fluid most likely caused by fluid leaking from 3 rubber plugs in shift cover. before i retired (again) my company supplied ford and many shops in north america with reman manual trans. we did between 1500 and 1800 of the mazda built (mr51/m5r2) units a year. switched to steel frost plugs in the cover and 5-20 motor oil and no longer had that issue. fix the one that you have as long as it did not burn up the mainshaft pilot and 3rd gear also..

 

[changed_my_name]

input and front gear on the counter burned up due to low fluid most likely caused by fluid leaking from 3 rubber plugs in shift cover. before i retired (again) my company supplied ford and many shops in north america with reman manual trans. we did between 1500 and 1800 of the mazda built (mr51/m5r2) units a year. switched to steel frost plugs in the cover and 5-20 motor oil and no longer had that issue. fix the one that you have as long as it did not burn up the mainshaft pilot and 3rd gear also..

what do you mean by fix and how do i do it? replaceing just the worn out parts or a full rebuild?

 

[Shran]

what do you mean by fix and how do i do it? replaceing just the worn out parts or a full rebuild?

Replacing the input bearing and the pocket bearing (between the input and main shafts, it's the source of your noise) will require a full teardown and at that point you may as well just buy a bearing kit and do them all. Synchros too if it has that many miles on it. You may find other worn parts while you're in there.

The question really is how comfortable are you working inside a transmission? There are a lot of small parts and some pieces that can go in backwards very easily if you're not paying attention. You will also need excellent mechanical skills, a 55MM wrench, bearing splitters or other ways of removing/installing bearings, etc... much easier to buy a rebuilt trans or a good junkyard unit than botch yours if you aren't comfortable with it.

 

[changed_my_name]

Replacing the input bearing and the pocket bearing (between the input and main shafts, it's the source of your noise) will require a full teardown and at that point you may as well just buy a bearing kit and do them all. Synchros too if it has that many miles on it. You may find other worn parts while you're in there.

The question really is how comfortable are you working inside a transmission? There are a lot of small parts and some pieces that can go in backwards very easily if you're not paying attention. You will also need excellent mechanical skills, a 55MM wrench, bearing splitters or other ways of removing/installing bearings, etc... much easier to buy a rebuilt trans or a good junkyard unit than botch yours if you aren't comfortable with it.

ill go with a junkyard one most likely then