2.3L ('83-'97) '95 2.3 No crank, No start, ideas please

[Flash3825]

Only lights on the dash when key is turned. New battery, cleaned terminals, checked all fuses and only problem is #24 - starter, in cab panel, fuse is good but no power to it. Fresh tune-up/wires and plugs and was running but missing a bit. Just replaced Oxygen Sensors from code and blown fuse, blower motor and blower resistor and still no fan and also no radio now. I tapped on starter and checked starter connections, no corrosion in fuse panel and checked relays, clutch switch is plugged in, transmission gear position sensor plugged in. Any ideas at all will be appreciated.

 

[RonD]

Fuse 24 in cab should only have 12volts when key is turned to START
So test it again but turn the key to START with meter or test light hooked up

That 12v comes from the ignition switch under the steering column

Power path for starter activation is:

ignition switch(turned to START)----------fuse 24----------clutch switch-----------starter relay

In a 1995 the Starter relay is most likely mounted on the inner fender and was called a starter solenoid for years
It will have a smaller post with a red/blue stripe wire attached, this wire is from the clutch switch
When the small post on the starter relay gets 12v the relay will close and starter will active
If fuse 24 has 12v with key turned to START
Then you can test if this red/blue wire also has 12v with key turned to START, but clutch pedal must be down

PUT TRANSMISSION IN NEUTRAL!!!!!
Then test using a jumper wire from battery positive to the small post on starter relay

If relay doesn't click then replace relay
If relay does click but no starter activation then replace starter motor

Inner fender mounted starter relay looks like this: https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/41F3BZtdBrL._AC_.jpg

Smaller post has "S" next to it, when that post has 12v relay will click closed(assuming its base is ground to metal inner fender)


Just a heads up, if you have any sort of alarm system then there may be another starter relay somewhere in the vehicle that prevents starter activation, it can be anywhere so ................???

 

[Flash3825]

Tried it again and fuse 24 in cab has 12 volts with key turned to start.
Yes, starter relay is on drivers side fender well but is a 4 post with one small post not being used.
Smaller post on relay with a red/blue stripe wire ("S" terminal) has NO power with or without key on or to start position and with clutch pushed in. Using a jumper wire from battery positive to the small post ("S" post) on starter relay makes the starter work and turn the engine over real well. I tightened the solenoid connections and attachment to fender well to be sure. No alarm system. Am I missing something? What next? Sure appreciate your help!!

 

[RonD]

The wire from the clutch switch to the starter relay is broken somewhere, or the clutch switch is bad(it has 3 switches inside it)

If you unplug the clutch switch connector you should see two red/blue wires at one end of connector, or it could have red/blue or white/pink or just Pink wires
These wires are in pins 5 and 6 of the 6 wire connector

Drawing of switch here: https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/198357_Graphic_609.jpg

Regardless of colors those two end wires are connected by the switch when pedal is down all the way
So try putting a jumper wire between those two wires and then try to start engine, IN NEUTRAL!!!

If it starts then clutch switch is bad

Drawing of switch wiring here: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=213387&stc=1&d=1501420503

5 and 6 are shown, if there is still a no crank with these two wires jumpered then one of these wires is broken
Wire in 6 "should" go to fuse 24
Wire in 5 "should go to starter relay "S" post
But they can be reversed, depends on who was working the wiring harness assembly line when it was made in the Ford factory, lol

You can test either to see which one has 12v with key turned to START, assuming fuse 24 is good
The other one runs to the starter relay

The one going to starter relay runs thru the BIG Round connector in the firewall, the one under the brake booster in engine bay, thats where it always turns to the red/blue wire you see at the starter relay

If you have 12v at the clutch switch with key turned to START
Then its almost easier to run a new wire from the clutch switch and out thru the firewall to starter relay, vs trying to track down where the old wire has corroded or broken