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94 ranger timing


rmdf

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hi .i got a 94 splash 4.0 4by4 5 speed.my problem is,just put in a new long block i used all my old external components started the truck ,ran for 30 minutes to break the cam in.this truck does not have a cam positining sensor,just a plug there.the truck will only go 15 to 20 mph you have to feather the gas to get rpm s up past 2000,the engine,exaust and water are very hot .is there a plug i need to unhook to reset the timing? it seems like its out of time the starter binds a little when i crank it .and i have no check engine lights on, only whn i unhook different sensors i changed injectors,cleaned maf , new plug wires plugs fuel pressure regulator ,fuel filter .it idles @ about 750 rpm s any help would be very helpful nobody will give me any up here in the northwest
 


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RonD

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There is no way to adjust spark timing on the 4.0l, they only came with distributorless ignition systems.
'94 4.0l does have a stand alone EDIS-6 module vs later models that have EDIS in the computer, but long shot on that being the problem.
The EDIS-6 on my '94 is located on the front side of the rad support drivers side.
The EDIS-6 does base spark timing via the Crank position sensor signal(which is sent to computer as well), the spark advance is controlled by the computer via a SAW signal(Spark Angle Word).

Does it idle at 1,000 when cold and then drop to 750 once warm?

Limited RPM reads like clogged exhaust or lean mix(air leak).
Can you test fuel pressure?

Vacuum gauge is inexpensive and can tell you alot about what is happening in the engine.
I like this article on that: http://www.gregsengine.com/using-a-vacuum-gauge.html


Compression test would tell you if valve are timed right, but so would vacuum test.
 

rmdf

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the old motor ran fine,used oil.the exaust and cat was done about 3 months ago i used the old manifold and injectors .where do i find this plug what does it look like? what should the compression be around? oh and it constantly idles about 750 it does not rev when you first start it .i got a feeling they put the chain in wrong,that would suck for me i would like to be sure before i pull the timing cover off thanks much
 

RonD

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With all spark plugs removed, good battery to spin the engine, foot on gas pedal(throttle open all the way, this also shuts off fuel injectors), and cold engine
Compression should be above 160psi.

Make sure IAC valve is connected, computer uses this to raise and lower idle.


On the top front of the intake manifold there will be 2 devices the read Coolant temperature.
A 2 wire sensor
And a 1 wire sender
The 1 wire sender is for the dash board temp gauge.

The 2 wire(ECT) sensor is the one you want, this is only used by the computer and this tells the computer engine is cold so set a high idle and run engine rich with advanced timing, this is Choke Mode computer runs this until the sensor warms up to above 160degF

So if engine is not idling at 1,000rpms cold then either ECT sensor is bad or IAC valve is.
Both can be tested.

MAF sensor on the air filter housing is also a main sensor, this sensor tells computer how much air is coming into the engine so computer can calculate how much fuel to mix with it, so the air tube from MAF to intake must be air tight, no leaks, or computer won't set the correct mix.

And just to make sure, check the spark plug wires ONE MORE TIME, I goof this up everytime, lol.

Firewall
coil
3 4
2 6
1 5
Front

Notice the 5 6 4 on drivers side plugs

engine cylinders are
3 6
2 5
1 4
front

Because this is a waste spark system, 2 spark plugs fire each time not 1, the wires can be wrong but engine still runs, barely, but it runs.
So even though you know for sure wires are all correct, trace each, one at a time, humor me :)
 
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rmdf

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thanks i will try this afternoon and let you ron
 

rmdf

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i ended up with good compression across the board,pulled the balancer off guess what lost the key on the crank. was about 30 degrees off pulled the key out of the oil pan with a magnet ,reset the balancer and now it runs just fine thanks for the direction and all the help
 

RonD

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Thanks for the update :)

Read about that on 3.0l but never the 4.0l, the woodruff key was just pushed out???

Or sheared off?
 

rmdf

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pushed out got it with a magnet in the bottem of the oil pan, got lucky
 

Andy D

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Great story . Thanks for follow up. The Rat has a 94 4.0. It is my first V6, but not my first Ford. It runs and starts well and generally behaves. So I haven't had to learn very much about it. :D
 


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