94 4.0 Check engine light, running rough

[jballard81]

So just finished replacing the engine mounts and started the engine and it's sounding rough. Making an almost chirp like sound from the front near the fan. The tensioner is getting a workout. I'm guessing that a pulley bearing or bearing inside the alternator (that seems to be where the sound is the worst) is going out. I'm going to post a link to a short video. It kind of looks like the belt slows down at some points and it's bogging down the engine.

Here are the check engine codes:
565 - canister purge 1 solenoid failure
556 - fuel pump relay primary circuit failure
629 - torque converter circuit failure
566 - transmission 3/4 shift solenoid/circuit failure

This feels like a pretty odd mixed bag codes. Especially since it runs and drives, albeit running rough. The transmission codes are throwing me b/c it ran through all the gears smoothly yesterday when i took it for a test drive.

I will get under it and see if lifting the engine disturbed some connections... Any feedback would be appreciated!

Link to video

Thanks!

 

[jballard81]

RonD helping out with a post from 2012 or so:

None of those codes should cause engine issue.
629 Converter clutch solenoid circuit fault
566 3-4 shift solenoid circuit failure

There is a 3 wire connector on drivers side of the A4LD automatic trans.
1 wire should have 12volts with key on.
Other 2 go to the computer.
One turns on and off the TCC, Converter clutch solenoid
The other turns on and off OD, 3-4 shift solenoid
Check connector, having both solenoids fail at the same time would be a long shot.
But failed 12volts(fuse) or bad connector would explain it.

556 Fuel pump relay primary circuit fault
This would cause engine problems, clear the codes and test again after a few days, if you think you caused it.

565 Canister purge solenoid circuit fault, long shot but could cause engine issue.
In the engine bay usually at the front on the rad support you will find the EVAP canister, larger black plastic box.
It will have two hoses
One will go back to the gas tank
The other one goes to the intake manifold, and has the Purge Solenoid on this hose.
So follow that hose and find the purge solenoid.
It will have a two wire connector.
This is a Vacuum valve, the computer pulses 12volts to it to open valve a little or alot.
Make sure connector is tight.
You can test it by removing connector and apply 12volts to the pins, it will click OPEN and Closed, there is no + or -, it can be hooked up either way.

Engine issue, long shot, if this valve is cracked or its hoses are then that could be an on again and off again vacuum leak, as computer tries to open and close solenoid.
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565: I found that the line from the purge solenoid was not connected to the canister. The line had rotted off. Replaced it.

529/566: Spot on with the fuse being the problem. Not sure what would cause it to blow maybe something grounded out when i was lifting the engine? Replaced the 20A fuse at the engine fuse block.

additionally, i checked the 3 wire connector at the transmission and it looked good. If i get this code again, i will perform the power check Ron advises above.

Pulled the negative battery cable for a minute to reset the CEL. Started it up and it's still rough, the belt tensioner still jumping all over. Need to pull the codes again and see what's still showing up. At least the new 20A fuse for the transmission didn't pop again.

 

[jballard81]

Getting the exact same codes again after letting them reset. I wonder if i could have messed up a ground when i lifted the engine for the mounts? These codes feel nonsensical to me and prior experience leads me to believe that something else might be the actual cause.

 

[bobbywalter]

or ...you crushed/pinched some wires. see that often especially after a trans r&r

 

[rumblecloud]

I'm betting your assumption on a disturbed ground is correct.

I've been looking to replace my canister and solenoid as well for rough running.

Those are crazy codes. I'venot seen anything like all at once.

 

[jballard81]

or ...you crushed/pinched some wires. see that often especially after a trans r&r

This is a distinct possibility. I will get under it and look it over and see what i can see. Any ideas on likely areas? i guess wherever they could get pinched, but this was my first engine mount swap so I'm not super familiar with where that could be. Other than following the transmission connection, any suggestions?

Thanks!

 

[jballard81]

I'm betting your assumption on a disturbed ground is correct.

I've been looking to replace my canister and solenoid as well for rough running.

Those are crazy codes. I'venot seen anything like all at once.

I'm going to have to check the manual for the ground locations and check them out.

 

[bobbywalter]

follow the trans wiring completely. from trans to all of the chassis and eec interfaces.

 

[bobbywalter]

the blown fuse can be indicative of a crushing short. unforntunately...on the shared power side this can cause pcm damage as well. the severity or ability to operate can be negligible enough to live with or stop the show.

grounds being gone often have a non function issue. in your case you may have several problems....with both ground and power sides. the pcm is communicating and it is running.


how does it drive? are all of the gears present and is the lock up working?

 

[jballard81]

the blown fuse can be indicative of a crushing short. unforntunately...on the shared power side this can cause pcm damage as well. the severity or ability to operate can be negligible enough to live with or stop the show.

grounds being gone often have a non function issue. in your case you may have several problems....with both ground and power sides. the pcm is communicating and it is running.


how does it drive? are all of the gears present and is the lock up working?

Other than running rough at idle, it ran pretty good when i test drove it. It went through all the gears including OD smoothly.

I'm not sure how to confirm if the lock up is working.

 

[bobbywalter]

does it have a tach? if so....run it right up to 55 mph and once steady see if it .... it will feel like a shift sometimes...drops and steady holds a few hundred rpm.

 

[jballard81]

does it have a tach? if so....run it right up to 55 mph and once steady see if it .... it will feel like a shift sometimes...drops and steady holds a few hundred rpm.

I'm going to trace the transmission lines first, see if there's anything obviously crushed. Once done, i will do that test. Thanks!

 

[bobbywalter]

rough idle could be bind in throttle cable....dirty maf...loose air tubes throwing off maf...sticky iac...ect

the trans codes otoh...not so much.

 

[jballard81]

rough idle could be bind in throttle cable....dirty maf...loose air tubes throwing off maf...sticky iac...ect

the trans codes otoh...not so much.

Figured it would be a good idea to clean the IAC, since I haven't before and after checking, it's the original Ford IAC. it was pretty gummy.

More importantly, after reading your comment, i remembered I had cleaned my MAF sensor so that probably isn't the problem. Well, it was. I removed the top of the airbox to try and get at the top engine mount nut on the passenger side. After reinstalling the intake hose, i 100% forgot to plug the connector back into the MAF

plugged it back in, turned it on and it sounds good again! need to take it for a drive to see if any codes pop back up.

I'm still getting some of the mechanical sounding click where I'm pretty sure its the tensioner maxing and clacking against its stop. Will get one of those on order.

Thanks for the help all! will report back if any codes come back.

 

[RobbieD]

After reinstalling the intake hose, i 100% forgot to plug the connector back into the MAF

Go stand in the corner.


Glad to hear that it was something simple, and you got it sorted out.

We all have done the same kind of stuff.