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94 2.3l 5spd sputters, wont start


iank1

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OK, heres the story. 1994 2.3l 5spd, no AC with califoirnia emissions. It's been trowing engine codes and not firing from the primary coil. I ran the ICM test and it came back with a back crank position sensor. So I replaced the crank position censor AND the Cam position censor (California trucks have that) And the speed sensor. Now of course, it wont start. It sputters, runs for a second, then dies with a PUT PUT PUT through the intake. I tried priming it just for kicks and it runs smooth until the gas I poured into the intake runs out. :icon_surprised: I either need help or a 10 cent bullet cause I'm goin nuts here.
 


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RonD

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If it starts and runs by manually adding gas to intake and then dies when you stop adding the gas........

I would say Fuel pump is not working.

In Rangers the fuel pump in the tank should come on for 2 seconds when key is turned on, it is not that quiet so you should hear it.
Try turning key on, count to 3, then turn key off, repeat, listen for Fuel pump.

If you hear it, check for fuel in the tank, I know, gauge says there is gas, but IS THERE GAS in the tank.
If pump comes on and there is fuel in the tank then try replacing Fuel Filter($10), it is in the frame rail approx. under Drivers seat.
And with filter removed put a bowl or bucket under fuel line and cycle key on, make sure fuel squirts out of the line.
A dirty fuel filter should not keep engine from starting, symptom is losing power at highway speeds, but starts and idles fine, so a long shot, in a no start.

If you don't hear the pump then check for power first.
In the engine fuse box is a 30amp fuse for the FP(fuel pump), check it.
There is also a Fuel Pump Relay in this box, have some one turn on the key while your finger is on the FP relay, you should feel and hear it click.
The EEC relay is right next to the FP Relay, it will also click with Key On.
If FP relay is not clicking then swap it with WOT relay if there is one, see if that one clicks, WOT relay is used for A/C so may not be there, so you may need to get another relay($8-$10)

In the passenger side inside the cab, is the Inertia switch, under the glove box and maybe just under the top of the carpet(could be behind kick panel as well), it will have a Button on the top, this is a reset button.
Inertia switch will cut power to fuel pump if it is banged hard, i.e. an accident or rollover, this prevents fuel from continuing to feed any fire :)
There are two wires attached, 12v in(from FP Relay) and 12v out (to pump)
You can use a test light/volt meter to see if there is 12v on both when key is turned ON, remember voltage is only there for 2 seconds.
You can start here if you want, if you have 12volts on both in and out wires then fuse and relay are working.

If all checks out OK then you will need to replace the pump in the tank.
Some drop the tank, others remove the bed to swap pumps
 
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iank1

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Hey Ron, thanks for the fast response. OK, when I turn the key to ON the pump hums, the EEC and fuel pump relays both click, the reset button is depressed, and i have a pressure guage hooked up to the schrader valve on the fuel rail. the pressure is good. It's as if the injectors are not getting a signal. it cranks and comes soooo close to catching and starting. grrrr.
 

iank1

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also, I tried putting a voltmeter in the injector connector and it only reads like 3 volts when cranking.
 

iank1

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update again... my volt meter was faulty. I get a solid 13 volts to the injectors, which are ground controlled for pulse. I get no connection on the ground side of the injector plug. (voltmeter black to injector plug ground, voltmeter red to battery, crank it, I should see voltage, it bounces around .3 volts) so it seems the injector ground control is bad. also I get 15.5 ohms resistance on the injectors.
 

RonD

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15ohms is fine, for Ford injectors

You won't read a ground at an injector, the pulse is too fast.
Noid lights are use to "see" a pulse.

Also look at the color of the injector ground wires, if there are only 2 colors then you have Batch fire injection, 2 injectors open at the same time
If there are 4 colors then each ground is separate, so you have sequential injection.

Here is the pin lay out for EEC-IV computer(PCM): http://www.auto-diagnostics.info/ford_eec_iv

Check the Grounds at the PCM, there are 3, a loose ground could be the problem.

Fuel pressure needs to be above 25psi, 35-40 psi is specified.
 

iank1

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UPDATE!!! well, if at first you don't succeed, destroy all evidence that you tried and start over! seriously, though, I got it. It was the new crank sensor, it was defective. I picked up another new one locally and I'm off and the old gal is purring like a kitten. Ahhhhh, there's nothing like the sound of an engine firing up and running smoothly. Thanks!!
 

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Glad you got it working :icon_thumby:, good job

But...........CKP sensor starts by controlling the spark, that pulse is passed on to injector controller, but it's main purpose is spark control.
The fact that it was starting and running by adding fuel manually doesn't fit with CKP sensor issue.
That being said I will have to remember this as a new one when troubleshooting systems
 

94RoadkillRanger

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I hear what you are saying RonD. I have a 1994 2.3 liter but no California emissions and so it only has the Crank sensor, no Cam sensor. It is possible that somewhere in its 20 years of life that the truck got a non-Cali PCM instead and thus was ignoring the Cam sensor while totally using the Crank sensor.
 

iank1

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hmmm an interesting thought, but I doubt it. It's been in my family since '98 and I knew the PO. I have a new problem though. I'll go to general discussion for that.
 


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