2.3L ('83-'97) 94 2.3 sohc

[Mont]

een looking all over on the web for info! I had my motor rebuilt about a year ago and ever since it has a clattering startup. It doesn’t happen every time but most times. The second the oil pressure switch makes and my oil gage
goes to its dummy spot the clatter stops. It only ever last a second but it is pretty loud. Running motor craft filter. I have tried 5-40,5-20,5-30. Nothing makes a difference I am trying to figure this out. Any info would be appreciated

 

[scotts90ranger]

It's probably lash adjusters that aren't working great, they're like $2 each and if fairly handy not a horrible job for a weekend. I've been told in the past to put dimes under the lash adjusters and I think I have some in now but then not too long ago someone said not to do it... I don't know, it's working now...

 

[tomw]

I would suspect the lifters/follower supports. Hydraulic lifter substitutes. They likely are bleeding down after shutdown, allowing clearance to increase, and cause clatter until they are filled back up with oil.
It is not the weight of the oil, it is the check valve in the lifter, or clearance between the lifter internal parts.
One or more will collapse when it it parked with no oil feed, and pushing on a cam support that is opening one of the valves.
You can take the time to inspect all the lifters and maybe find one or more that leak down. The cure is replacement with non-leaky lifters. You would need to apply pressure to the follower as if the cam lobe was opening the valve, and note if the clearance increases, to each lifter in turn. A leaky lifter will bleed down more quickly than one that is working properly. Once you find the leaker, remove the follower, pull the lifter and replace.
You could take them out, disassemble, and inspect for damaged check valve, or attempt to feel loose bore tolerances. Or just replace them all.
I don't think they are $2 items, so it is not as low cost as it might seem at first.
I think I would try to figure out how many were likely making noise, obtain a number of new or used lifters, and check for leakdown. In the shop manuals, the leakdown rate was specified, but I have no idea of the spec. They had a 'arbor press' type thing to apply pressure, equipped with a spring gauge to show how much pressure was being applied, and you would insert the lifter, apply pressure at a given number, and count how long it took the lifter to collapse. Too quick, time for a new one. Too slow, a maybe.
tom

 

[Mont]

Thanks for the replies guys! I think I will just throw a set of new lifters at it. How much damage is being caused on these startups would you say?

 

[RonD]

No damage just wear, but not that much

Before starting
Turn key on
Press gas pedal down all the way and hold it down to the floor
Turn key to START
Engine should turn over but NOT start, let it crank for 5 seconds then release gas pedal and engine will start with NO noise, lifters are pre-filled with oil from cranking

Its called Clear Flooded Engine routine, all fuel injection computers have this
0 RPMs + WOT(wide open throttle) = computer turns off injector pulses........to Clear a flooded engine
But spark is still on and oil pump is, of course, pumping oil thru the engine

This will minimize wear

Also good to do this on any high mile engine, oil FIRST, then startup

 

[rumblecloud]

Before starting
Turn key on
Press gas pedal down all the way and hold it down to the floor
Turn key to START
Engine should turn over but NOT start, let it crank for 5 seconds then release gas pedal and engine will start with NO noise, lifters are pre-filled with oil from cranking

Its called Clear Flooded Engine routine, all fuel injection computers have this
0 RPMs + WOT(wide open throttle) = computer turns off injector pulses........to Clear a flooded engine
But spark is still on and oil pump is, of course, pumping oil thru the engine

Really good info. I know I've seen you post this before and I need to start doing this.

 

[scotts90ranger]

Ok, I was off, they're $4 and change... $34 for a set of 8 on Amazon... I think I got them with a discount at Napa almost 10 years ago for $2 and change...

The clear flood on startup isn't a bad idea, that would do it, and I agree, only wear would be valve stem tip and possibly some on the rollers on the followers and any would be minimal.

 

[rosscob]

RonD, I've got an '88 2.3 that recently developed a lifter tick, especially at start up. It seems to quiet down after it idles for a while. I just went out and tried your suggestion of holding the gas pedal to the floor and letting it turn over for 5 seconds or so before I lift my foot off the pedal and let it start. It cranked over for a couple seconds then fired right up, even though I still had the pedal to the floor. Should that technique have worked on a 2.3 as old as '88?

 

[RonD]

Yes, all fuel injection computers have that

Check if you have WOT(wide open throttle)
Key off, hood open
Put a stick against the seat to hold down gas pedal all the way
Go to engine and see if you can open the throttle a bit more, if so........
Google: Ranger throttle cable mod
Simple fix

Computer needs to see minimum 4.5volts from throttle sensor to recognize WOT

 

[scotts90ranger]

I know what it should do but it doesn't work on my '97 even with new injectors either, I haven't checked the TPS voltage but I think it is only showing 95% throttle on the OBD II reader... maybe I'll look sometime this week...

 

[rosscob]

I think I might have floored it before I turned the key so I'll try it again and see what happens. Thanks.