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93 Ford Ranger 3.0L v6 - EEC 30 amp fuse keeps blowing


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Yep, I did that, already. The trans harness still unplugged along with the rest of the above components, still getting the fuse circuit breaker resetting. I'm starting to run out of ideas.
 


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Did we miss any components on the 361 circuit?
 

Curious Hound

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Did we miss any components on the 361 circuit?
I don't think so. Itseither a wire shorted to ground or your pcm is bad. Does the fuse blow with the pcm unplugged?
 
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That is a good suggestion. I haven't unplugged the pcm, yet. I'll try and do that tomorrow. Unfortunately, the bolt on the pcm connector is hard to get to.
 

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You really need to inspect the wiring harness everywhere that red wire circuit goes. Something is shorted to ground.
 
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@ericbphoto Quick question, the wiring diagram says that the Air Conditioner/Heater is on circuit 361. I assumed that this is the A/C compressor, but I don't see a red wire on that connector.

Or does it mean a different Air Conditioner/Heater component (like the blower motor)?
 

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Curious Hound

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@ericbphoto Quick question, the wiring diagram says that the Air Conditioner/Heater is on circuit 361. I assumed that this is the A/C compressor, but I don't see a red wire on that connector.

Or does it mean a different Air Conditioner/Heater component (like the blower motor)?
I was forgetting about that one. I’ll look further into that in the diagrams after work tonight. It will go other places and change colors throughout the circuit - pressure switches, WOT cutout, etc. compressor clutch is the last thing in the line on that circuit, if it’s what I’m thinking about.
 
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@ericbphoto Hey, I think I found it!! it is one of the other connectors on the side of the automatic transmission. The plastic around the red wire is exposed, it was hard to see at first and is kinda hard to access. I'll keep you updated.
 

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Curious Hound

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That’s definitely an issue. But the bare wires would need to be touching the transmission case or some other ground in order to blow the fuse. Hard to see in that picture. But it should not be bare like that.
 
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@ericbphoto I think the bigger issue is the 3/4 shift solenoid because of the following code: 566 (and lose of overdrive, recently). I'm going to replace the 3/4 shift solenoid next week. I believes that it is where the short is being caused.
 

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It is completely possible that the shift solenoid is shorted internally; it looks like that red wire may have gotten hot and melted the insulation.

That's good troubleshooting, both of you guys. (y)
 
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@ericbphoto,

Quick update, today, I dropped the pan, now that I got all of the replacement parts. 3/4 solenoid and wiring connector plug (3 prong) were burnt up a bit. I replaced the wiring connector plug with a brand new aftermarket one (attached). I will replace the both solenoids (TCC & 3/4 shift) tomorrow; with new genuine OEM ones.

Solenoid bolts and brackets are removed. I can see the solenoids are very hard to get out, I guess I need to wiggle a bit more. Is their any tools I can use to make them easier to get out????

Or do I have to drop the valve body to get them out???
 

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