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2.3L ('83-'97) 93' 2.3 Clutch Issues After Transmission Swap


Paul18181818

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I recently converted my 93' ranger to a manual from the a4ld automatic. I'm having trouble getting the clutch to fully disconnect. When the engine is on and I go to put the truck in reverse, it grinds. The transmission goes into gear perfectly when the engine is off. I am able to start the car in first and limp it around but it's less than ideal. This swap included a brand new master cylinder, slave cylinder and line (Master and clutch line came pre-bled). I installed a new pilot bearing when I put the flywheel on. I also reset the pressure plate adjustment when I had it out. I have bled the clutch multiple times and am getting good fluid pressure and no air bubbles. Any ideas? I'm pretty stumped at this point.
 


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scotts90ranger

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Is the pedal solid when you push it or is it pretty soft? It sounds like you have air in the master cylinder which is easy to do and hard to get out...

Something that works sometimes (not always) is pushing the clutch pedal to the floor with the trans in neutral or engine off and slipping your foot off the pedal 3 or so times.

If that doesn't work, sometimes you have to go further, which pretty much involves getting the master cylinder out so the inlet can be above the outlet instead of the reverse like when installed. The other option is to pull the clutch switch then pull the snap ring for the piston and back it out until fluid comes out with the air...
 

Paul18181818

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I have good clutch pressure and with the pre-bled master, I assumed there wouldn’t be any air stuck in there. I guess it can’t hurt to try
 

RonD

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So you didn't use a new self-adjusting pressure plate?
You used an old one and used hydraulic pressure to reset it?
I also reset the pressure plate adjustment when I had it out
But clutch disc is new?

You may need to start engine "in gear" and then leave it in gear at stop lights/signs until clutch disc wears down a bit

There is no "margin of error" on the Ranger clutch setup, new thicker disc can rub even with fully working master slave

That's why the Self Adjusting pressure plates were used on some models
These have the 3 smaller springs around the back side, looks like these: http://cdn.nexternal.com/uuc/images/CLUTCH_LUK_SAC.jpg

The springs are fully compressed when new/reset, and at first clutch pedal press they self adjust(IN) to thickness of the clutch disc, then maintain that distance until disc is worn out
This keeps clutch pedal engage/disengage in the middle of pedal travel

With regular pressure plate(no springs) when you put a new disc in the pedal has to be down to the floor to disengage then engage, then pedal disengage slowly moves up in pedal travel over the life of the disc until it starts to slip when pedal is up all the way
 
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Paul18181818

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Yep that’s correct. I had a donor clutch disk and self-adjusting pressure plate. I reset the pressure plate with a press, and the clutch disk was used but had a lot of material left on it.

I will try wearing down the clutch today and see if that helps. The only other thing I can think of is somehow the new pilot bearing I installed was faulty or I installed it incorrectly.
 

RonD

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Its possible but that should make a noise if you start engine "in gear", no noise means pilot bearing is free to turn with input shaft at 0RPMs and crank at 800RPMs(idle)

Problem, of course, is that input shaft is not able to slow down to 0RPMs so you can't put transmission into any gear when stopped(transmission at 0RPMS)
Which means the 10" clutch disc is rubbing on flywheel or pressure plate, both at 800RPMs, and the 4" synchros can't slow it down to 0RPMs when pushing shifter into a gear
1993 Ranger has M5OD-R1 manual transmission which has synchros on all gears including Reverse, just FYI

Probably not it but......did you lightly grease the disc splines and input shaft splines on assembly?
The disc does need to slide a bit to be free from flywheel and pressure plate when clutch pedal is down


If its a used disc I can't see that being the issue, wearing it down more

The hose from master to slave is new?
Older ones can get weak spots and expand a bit under pressure so you don't get full fluid flow into slave, similar symptom as air in the system
 
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Paul18181818

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I did not grease the disk splines or input shaft, or the pilot bearing for that matter. The hose from the master to slave is new, yes. It came preinstalled on the pre-bled master cylinder.
 

Paul18181818

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Another weird symptom... I am able to roll the car in gear with the clutch down when the engine is off, but when I turn the engine on it wants to creep forward
 

RonD

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Well, a 3,000+ pound vehicle will turn a rubbing 10" clutch disc pretty easily

And a rubbing 10" disc will cause same 3,000+ pound vehicle to roll a bit at 800rpm rub

Disc will wear down but it will take a few weeks, at least
 


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