92 Ranger Turn Signal bugs

[RobbieD]

could it be the switch in on the dash? its one that pulls out a click for dash and running lights, and a second click for headlights

No, the combination switch would be suspect before the light switch in the dash. But the combination switch has been replaced already, so let's rule it out for now.

With headlights/running lights off on the driver side, i get only the front signal. With headlights/running lights on, on the driver side, I get no turn signal at all, and the indicator on the dash remains constant on.

and in the problem socket, I did see power thru black, only when running lights/headlights were on.

The problems that you're having strongly suggest a grounding problem, especially the reading of power in the ground wire on the bad side. And I wouldn't rule out a bad connection(s) somewhere in the circuits.

If it were me, here's where I'd go next with it.

First, look at the front driver lighting grounding point, G102. This is a ring terminal bolted to the radiator support above and inboard of the driver headlight. There's a splice up from terminal, which connects the individual ground wires to the headlight, turn signal, running light and engine compartment light. Make sure the ground ring is tight and not corroded. Look over the harnesses in this area, checking that there hasn't been any boogering done to the wiring. I have seen splices get rotted, but I'd save the splice until after the next step.

Second, I'd really go through the rear light wiring carefully. It's good that you put in a new socket, and I assume that you also redid the old connections for the previous replacement socket. The grounding point for the rear lighting is G103, and it's actually bolted to the driver's fender well in the engine compartment, about midway. So check that grounding point, but I'd be more suspect of the wiring harness in the rear of the truck. There's a black 8-pin connector (C401) behind the rear bumper near the driver side frame rail; this has the rear lighting circuits. Start there, and go over every inch of harness to the driver side lights, looking for breaks and non-stock splices. There is a factory splice on the black ground wire close to the connector, and this splice should be unwrapped and checked for corrosion.

The fact that the socket was replaced before is a red flag, as there was a problem and somebody has been into the rear wiring before. And a lot of times with lighting problems, it's a past trailer harness installation that's the cause (and may have even been removed, but the boogered wiring remains). Focus on anything that doesn't look stock, and if needed, I'd even pull the tail light harnesses out, and lay it on ground plugged at C401 in order to troubleshoot things better.

Don't get flustered; it's usually something simple, but easy to overlook. Good luck!

 

[Alistar1776]

No, the combination switch would be suspect before the light switch in the dash. But the combination switch has been replaced already, so let's rule it out for now.




The problems that you're having strongly suggest a grounding problem, especially the reading of power in the ground wire on the bad side. And I wouldn't rule out a bad connection(s) somewhere in the circuits.

If it were me, here's where I'd go next with it.

First, look at the front driver lighting grounding point, G102. This is a ring terminal bolted to the radiator support above and inboard of the driver headlight. There's a splice up from terminal, which connects the individual ground wires to the headlight, turn signal, running light and engine compartment light. Make sure the ground ring is tight and not corroded. Look over the harnesses in this area, checking that there hasn't been any boogering done to the wiring. I have seen splices get rotted, but I'd save the splice until after the next step.

Second, I'd really go through the rear light wiring carefully. It's good that you put in a new socket, and I assume that you also redid the old connections for the previous replacement socket. The grounding point for the rear lighting is G103, and it's actually bolted to the driver's fender well in the engine compartment, about midway. So check that grounding point, but I'd be more suspect of the wiring harness in the rear of the truck. There's a black 8-pin connector (C401) behind the rear bumper near the driver side frame rail; this has the rear lighting circuits. Start there, and go over every inch of harness to the driver side lights, looking for breaks and non-stock splices. There is a factory splice on the black ground wire close to the connector, and this splice should be unwrapped and checked for corrosion.

The fact that the socket was replaced before is a red flag, as there was a problem and somebody has been into the rear wiring before. And a lot of times with lighting problems, it's a past trailer harness installation that's the cause (and may have even been removed, but the boogered wiring remains). Focus on anything that doesn't look stock, and if needed, I'd even pull the tail light harnesses out, and lay it on ground plugged at C401 in order to troubleshoot things better.

Don't get flustered; it's usually something simple, but easy to overlook. Good luck!

Before I did the socket, I had gone over every ground I could find in the engine bay and cleaned them up, So ill rule those out for now. Ill have to swap the socket back once I get more connectors, as the socket I put in is from a 95, and doesnt fit in the 92 housing. I didnt realize it before hand lol. So, ill take a look at the rear wiring you mentioned and see what I find there.

Edit update: Tail light harness is pulled, there are 5 pins populated of an 8pin connector to connect to the main harness. the driver half of the tail light harness was wrapped in a blue tape, where the passenger side did not have any blue tape. found it kind of interesting. unwrapping it and pulling it apart, I found no splices, and no visual damage. to the wires themselves. however, ive found the green/orange wire to be broken at the main connector, and guess what that runs . Ill splice it back together and get back with yall.

 

[Alistar1776]

Update: Success!! ish... Driver side signal works. Lights off, i have front and rear turn signal flashing at a normal pace. Heres where the ish comes in. Lights on, The flash is slower. once every 2 to 3 seconds id say, versus every second. So ive no doubt theres another bug somewhere.

 

[RobbieD]

Good that you've made progress.

If I'm following you right, the passenger lights work correctly (turn, park and brake) with the lights on or off, and now the driver side also works correctly, except that when the lights (park, or park and head) are on, the turn's blinking part gets real slow, right?

If so, my best wild-ass guess would be that the remaining problem is a ground wire problem, and that it's likely in that front G102 circuit.

Something I've used a lot in troubleshooting a bad ground wire is a jumper wire, with alligator clips on each end. Use it to jumper the ground wire of the mis-operating component (in this case, the light socket black wire, from the back, with bulb in) to a good metal ground (clean frame or engine). If the problem goes away, you have an open or weak point in the circuit back to the grounding point. Then you just work your way back to the ground point, repeating jumping the ground circuit to good ground, until you find the fail point.

And if that don't work, I curse at it.

Sometimes a lot.

Good luck!

 

[Alistar1776]

Good that you've made progress.

If I'm following you right, the passenger lights work correctly (turn, park and brake) with the lights on or off, and now the driver side also works correctly, except that when the lights (park, or park and head) are on, the turn's blinking part gets real slow, right?

If so, my best wild-ass guess would be that the remaining problem is a ground wire problem, and that it's likely in that front G102 circuit.

Something I've used a lot in troubleshooting a bad ground wire is a jumper wire, with alligator clips on each end. Use it to jumper the ground wire of the mis-operating component (in this case, the light socket black wire, from the back, with bulb in) to a good metal ground (clean frame or engine). If the problem goes away, you have an open or weak point in the circuit back to the grounding point. Then you just work your way back to the ground point, repeating jumping the ground circuit to good ground, until you find the fail point.

And if that don't work, I curse at it.

Sometimes a lot.

Good luck!

Yep, thats exactly whats going on. Ill go thru locating the ground issue when I have more time.