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92 Ranger rear wheel spin.


cbxer55

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My Ranger is a SPORT model. The door label alpha numeric code says it's a 7.5 open differential. I don't know if maybe SPORT models had something different done to the axle that the label doesn't speak to? When it spins on wet pavement, it moves sideways, so both wheels must be turning, not just one. On dry pavement, yes it will leave two streaks. Don't ask me, I can only report what it does. I have no idea if the original owner did something to it before I bought it.
 

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Scourge

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I don't think your front axle is putting power to the wheels.


Some serious misunderstanding of how shit works here.
Any chance you can further educate me about this and possibly have a way to test this?
 

bobbywalter

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Do you have lockout hubs?
 

bobbywalter

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Likely they are broke .

Put it in 2wd and spin the front drive shaft with the wheels on the ground
 

adsm08

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Likely they are broke .

Put it in 2wd and spin the front drive shaft with the wheels on the ground
Heck, put it in 2wd and spin the front drive shaft with the wheels ON the ground. With the transfer case disengaged and an open front diff whichever side has the blown hub will keep spinning.

One time I got stuck in about 2 feet of snow with auto hubs. The wheels were slipping so badly I was able to leave it in 1st gear 4-hi, get out of the truck, and look under to see which axle shaft was spinning, and which one was locked to the wheel.
 

rusty ol ranger

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Heck, put it in 2wd and spin the front drive shaft with the wheels ON the ground. With the transfer case disengaged and an open front diff whichever side has the blown hub will keep spinning.

One time I got stuck in about 2 feet of snow with auto hubs. The wheels were slipping so badly I was able to leave it in 1st gear 4-hi, get out of the truck, and look under to see which axle shaft was spinning, and which one was locked to the wheel.
Had a buddy once with a 2wd 94 F150 nose dive it in a snowbank, left it in reverse (on purpose, 5speed) while he and another buddy got out to push.

Truck broke free from the snowbank, caught traction and took off across an empty cornfield and came to rest buried up to the bumpers about 60 feet or so from the road.

I had a 77 F150 4wd at the time on 33s and i could not even get out to that truck to yank it out. Had to get a pretty decent sized tractor. I have no idea how it got out so far before it got stuck.
 

Bird76Mojo

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Mud terrain tires are made to spin and throw. Not really "bite".

Toss a set of BFG A/Ts on it and youll notice a world of difference. I got them on both my 2wd 3/4 tons and have yet to get stuck.
That's complete horseshit. I've run A/T tires on my trucks before and they pale in comparison to M/T's in 99% of all scenarios. They don't grab even remotely close to M/T tires on dry dirt, mud, snow, or grass. My old truck with A/T's could get stuck on wet grass with BFG A/T's quite easily if the slope was right. The only area they excelled was on deep dry sand, and that was only if you aired them down a considerable amount. The only real toss up is ice. A/T's might grab it better in some scenarios as far as acceleration, but 80% of the time my M/T's will chew through the ice enough or just grip it well enough to get me moving just as quickly. Unless it's nearly perfect, clear and flat, smooth ice..

M/T's tires don't have to be used to "spin and throw" anything. They just flat out provide more grip if you know how to use them. They bite in much better than A/T's 99% of the time.

When I tension trees with my winch while falling them, the trees would often just pull the truck across the grass or dirt with A/T's. That doesn't happen at all with my M/T's.

A/T's are nothing more than a compromise for off-road and street use.
 

rusty ol ranger

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That's complete horseshit. I've run A/T tires on my trucks before and they pale in comparison to M/T's in 99% of all scenarios. They don't grab even remotely close to M/T tires on dry dirt, mud, snow, or grass. My old truck with A/T's could get stuck on wet grass with BFG A/T's quite easily if the slope was right. The only area they excelled was on deep dry sand, and that was only if you aired them down a considerable amount. The only real toss up is ice. A/T's might grab it better in some scenarios as far as acceleration, but 80% of the time my M/T's will chew through the ice enough or just grip it well enough to get me moving just as quickly. Unless it's nearly perfect, clear and flat, smooth ice..

M/T's tires don't have to be used to "spin and throw" anything. They just flat out provide more grip if you know how to use them. They bite in much better than A/T's 99% of the time.

When I tension trees with my winch while falling them, the trees would often just pull the truck across the grass or dirt with A/T's. That doesn't happen at all with my M/T's.

A/T's are nothing more than a compromise for off-road and street use.
The BFG M/Ts ive had were good in one thing. Mud.

Snow, grass, whatever they sucked. To each their own but i can tell you right now i had my 77 buried to the rockers in snow last year and backed it out with some heavy throttle and creativity. I swear by the BFG A/T.
 

1994 Ranger xlt

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While we’re talking about spinning my 93 has a open 8.8 can you take a lsd out of a 98 8.8 with different gears and swap housing if I put my ring on it?
 

ericbphoto

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While we’re talking about spinning my 93 has a open 8.8 can you take a lsd out of a 98 8.8 with different gears and swap housing if I put my ring on it?
Have to swap ring and pinion as a set.
 

ericbphoto

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I’m running BFG T’s right now. I like them. They seemed to do ok at the trail ride. I prefer the MT’s though. Always ran those on my F150 and never let me down.

tall wet grass is miserable no matter what tires you have.
 

bobbywalter

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i have found the classic bfg at is killer in snow when they are new. blow the mt away on wet or snowy pavement. the olt style mt....the intermediate and the current. for rain and snow they work great and are very quiet.


i quit using them personally long ago because they suk past 25-30 k and cant trust them to not fail. but until that point they are nice. i always get belt shift and or radial pull....the ones on my issued shop trucks exploded and destroyed the fenders and rocker...thats the 3rd or 4th time for that shit....you would think they were uniroyals....the ones that were on trs 2 are completely shifted radially...but fine for trail use. but will explode if run hard.


i buy coopers/mastercraft if i get to do the tires...the bfg were on the shop trucks when i got them...

i run yokahamas or the military oz generally for street tires on the ranger. winter/summer











on edit.....after all the good about the at....it is like bird said....the descriptor of the at vs mt a few posts above is complete horseshit....
 

bobbywalter

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sawzall?
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it is easier to fix and understand than "her"
While we’re talking about spinning my 93 has a open 8.8 can you take a lsd out of a 98 8.8 with different gears and swap housing if I put my ring on it?
spartan locker.
 

scotts90ranger

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I agree, front hubs probably aren't working.

Limited slip in the rear axle isn't worth swapping in for the novice (unless you get a whole assembly with the same gear ratio, that is an easy weekend project), gears need to be set up which can cost around $500, while there are probably lunchbox lockers for half that that a novice can install fairly easily.

I run BFG MT's on my Ranger, have two friends with them running the same size (35x12.50) and all have decent luck on most terrains, they aren't great at anything but are decent at a lot of things... run them down to 8ish psi and they work pretty good in the sand, down to 6ish and they will do near whatever you want them to do in the snow, 30 on the street and they're quieter than the stupid scalloped (I think that's what it's called, every other lug is worn down) tires on my Explorer...
 

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