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2.3L ('83-'97) 92 ranger 2.3 starting issue


Paul1991

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Hello, first post here as I am a new member. I recently picked up a 92 ranger 2.3, 5 speed 2wd. I picked it up non running with the nylon fuel line chewed up by squirrels. Fixed the fuel lines and I was able to get it to start after cycling the pump several times. Next morning truck won't start, just cranks and cranks with no fuel pump noise under the truck. The guy I bought it from gave me a new in box fuel pump with it, so I figure f*** it I'll toss it in. Put the fuel pump in and now you can hear the pump running also swapped the inline fuel filter while I was at it. Try to start the truck and it's doing the same thing just cranks and cranks. It'll fire for a split second then nothing. If I prime fuel into the throttle body the truck will fire right up and stay running on it's own. You can start it several times throughout the day without an issue. Next morning, nothing unless you prime it. What am I missing here? On another note if the key is on the fuel pump is on. It doesn't do the normal 2 second run til prime. It just stays running no matter how long you leave the key on. Fuel pressure regulator possibly? Any input would be great.

thanks, Paul
 


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RonD

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Welcome to the forum

Previous owner may have jump fuel pump relay if it runs full time with key on

Find the OBD connector in engine bay should be between fuse box and firewall
Looks like drawing here: https://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/OBD_I.shtml

If fuel pump slot in drawing has a jumper wire in it then fuel pump will run full time with key on, no 2 seconds and off

If there is no jumper there then your computer may be bad
Or someone has ground the fuel pump relay in another manner

As for the starting, I doubt the fuel pump is the problem if it starts and runs by adding fuel manually

Could be the ECT(engine coolant temp) sensor, its a TWO wire sensor on front of engine
Computer needs to know engine temp so it knows how much CHOKE to apply to a cold engine
Choking a gasoline engine means to add EXTRA FUEL for cold start to get enough gasoline vapor in the cylinders
No choke and engine gets harder to start the colder it gets
Adding the extra fuel is what the computer should be doing on cold start

And its why it will start if already warmed up a bit, less or no choke is needed
 

Paul1991

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I'm thinking it could be a computer issue. The check engine light doesn't clear after battery disconnected. Also jumping the connector with wire trying to pull the codes did nothing. Check engine light just stayed on, didn't flash or anything. I only paid a couple hundred bucks for it and it's a really clean truck ( came from Virginia in 2016 and only saw one winter, then was parked until last week). I drained the old fuel out and put fresh gas in which did make it run much better just doesn't like to start. No jumper wire in the obd port, I'll do more investigation in the morning but this is very frustrating
 

RonD

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Pull the computer and open it up
There are 3 blue capacitors that leak(after 20 years) and cause issues, one being full time fuel pump
Under $5 to replace them

Had to do this on my 1994 this year
 

Paul1991

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How does the computer open up? Electrical related stuff isn't my cup of tea. I can wrench on damn near anything, I grew up on farms and have been an agriculture mechanic most of my life. I just hate getting into electrical. I threw a new coolant temperature sensor in it tonight and that didn't seem to make a difference. Is the cts tied into any specific fuse or anything else I should be looking at? I'm starting to think junk computer seeing that no time frame of a removed battery clears check engine light. I cleaned grounds under hood and replaced battery termals as well today.
 

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You will see how it opens up, usually a screw on each side and top and bottom covers come off

"Is the cts tied into any specific fuse....."???

If you mean a sensor no, they all run off the 5volts from computer, no fuse
 

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Ok I will pull the computer tomorrow. I will be looking for leaking capacitors, if they aren't leaking what else should I be looking for? I'm assuming anything burned looking or corrosion. I pulled the plug to the computer last night to look for corrosion and it appears nice and clean on the plug end. Is there a way to see if power is getting to the cts?
 

Paul1991

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Well, I got my kids to bed early and pulled the computer. Not looking good in there, very wet and heavily corroded. I noticed the windshield leaks and runs to the passenger floor board. I have the truck inside and drying out to fix the leak and replace the cracked windshield. Now the question is, what is the interchange for computers that would be a direct plug in? Do they require programming by Vin like newer vehicles?
 

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Can it be cleaned up and the 3 capacitors changed?

Alcohol, tooth brush and rinse with distilled water,
Repeat as you see fit


No the older computers didn't have odometer or VIN matching
1990-1992 years should work
Must match:
Ranger model
engine size
Transmission type(manual or auto)
With EGR or no EGR(you can use a No EGR computer on an EGR engine)

2WD or 4x4 don't matter
 

Paul1991

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It's heavily corroded in some areas. #60 pin which from what I saw on a diagram is a ground is so corroded the pin that plugs into the harness fell right out of this. I also noticed it only has 2 capacitors. I believe they are capacitors anyways, they look like little blue battery's standing on end? One is seeping black goop. There are other blue things in there that kind of look like capsule pills. But anyhow, I don't think saving this computer will work. I did see on car-part.com I can get a used one for $35. I just hope that solves my problems. A new one is $105 plus core on rockauto which really isn't bad considering at least it's a reman and in theory shouldn't have any issues
 

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Yes, get a used one, but inspect it before installing

Yes, it may only have 2 caps, give them a CLOSE look, if possible just replace them because they WILL leak at some point
 

Paul1991

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I will inspect the new one when it comes in. How do you go about replacing them and where would I buy them if needed? I'm guessing they solder in? Sorry for all the questions, as stated I get nervous messing with electrical stuff. And thank you for all the help, it's very appreciated
 

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Here is a capacitor replacement article: http://support.moates.net/capacitor-repair-ford-a9l-ecm/

Yes, they are soldered in
Ask around, maybe someone you know has the soldering equipment needed
You will need a Thump vacuum pump to get the old solder out, looks like this: https://www.ebay.ca/itm/Vacuum-Soldering-Iron-Tool-Desolver-Solder-Sucker-Desoldering-Pump-Removal/114187665372?_trkparms=aid=1110006&algo=HOMESPLICE.SIM&ao=2&asc=20160908110712&meid=0cea0f47892843808e539f955d5920c3&pid=100677&rk=8&rkt=30&mehot=none&sd=392174688658&itm=114187665372&pmt=0&noa=1&pg=2386202&algv=DefaultOrganic&brand=Unbranded&_trksid=p2386202.c100677.m4598

Or any TV/Radio, electronics repair place can do it

You need to get the "values" off the old capacitors
You can order on-line if there is no "electronic parts" places around, Radio shack is a big maybe now-a-days
 

Paul1991

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I ordered a used computer with a 90 day warranty from a wrecking yard on Monday, still not here yet but hopefully this weekend. Once I get this thing where it easily runs and moves I will be starting a build thread of an sas/4x4 swap among other things I plan on doing to it
 

Paul1991

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The computer came in today. Good news, it was remanned in 2016 so it's probably much new. Better news, truck fires right up and all the running issues are gone. Truck runs fantastic! Onto the next projects now. Thanks for all the input
 


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