92 Ford Ranger, 2.3L manual…Mystery

[kyleannkelsey]

I’m having starting issues. Yesterday and this morning it wouldn’t start. I turned the key to on without starting the car and left it for a couple of minutes and tried again. It started up easily after that.

So my question is:
What would cause my car to need the key turned to the on position for several minutes prior to being able to start the engine?

History:
Yesterday, I started the car and it shot a few blanks before it started. I drove it to the gas station and decided to add oil while I was there. It started up normally. I apparently cracked the oil cap when I was tightening it down. I drove it about 50 miles with the broken cap. It had some trouble when it idled and when I was trying to speed up. The car sat for a few hours, then shot a few blanks before it started and ran roughly as I sped up. I parked it again and it wouldn’t start unless I left the key on for a few minutes first. I drove another 50 miles and finally discovered my cap problem. I replaced the cap and read the codes (538, see below). The car started up fine as I left the auto parts store. BUT… I had to leave the key on again this morning to start it. So, something is wrong.

Am I wrong to separate the starting problem from the idling/speeding up issues? I was considering the later a part of the oil cap problem and the starting issue a whole different can of worms. No?

Codes:
538 = "Insufficient RPM change during Dynamic Response Test (Engine Run Self-Test). or,
Invalid cylinder balance test - throttle position movement. or,
Invalid cylinder balance test - cylinder identification problems."

Previously (~Dec) I had the check engine light flash a few times when it was in the negatives. They were all EGR valve problem codes. I haven’t seen them since (we aren’t seeing any negative weather anymore).

 

['99 EB Explorer]

Up until I saw the part about the codes...my mind was saying either fuel pump is dying and getting sluggish, or fuel filter is plugged up somethin' fierce. Thus requiring extra time to prime your fuel system.

Once the vehicle is running...the extra vacume of the engine running would help force the fuel through the system better.

Just my 0.02

Good luck

 

[kyleannkelsey]

What specifically makes you think its the fuel pump?

 

['99 EB Explorer]

Up until I saw the part about the codes...my mind was saying either fuel pump is dying and getting sluggish, or fuel filter is plugged up somethin' fierce. Thus requiring extra time to prime your fuel system.

Once the vehicle is running...the extra vacume of the engine running would help force the fuel through the system better.

Just my 0.02

Good luck

Can you hear the pump when you turn the key on?


3 things that your engine needs to run PROPERLY.

1) Air
2) Fuel
3) Spark

If either of those 3 are missing, weak or being disrupted somehow, your engine will run like ass..if it runs at all.

When things start going wrong, those are the 3 things you check first and foremost.

I'd start with the basics consentrating on the fuel delivery. You can rent a fuel pressure gage at most parts stores. Then go to spark(entire ignition system really) and air.

 

[JC 97]

Actually you need four things to run properly.Timing,Air,Fuel,spark.

 

[kyleannkelsey]

I might give that try tonight. However, since I replaced the fuel cap, I feel like its running pretty smoothly, no rough idiling or jumping when I speed up. Do you think my other symptoms (the key having to be on for a couple of minutes before starting) add up to fuel pump?

Also, when I took off for lunch today:
I couldn't get it to start (clicking noises only, no check engine light when I turned the key). I let it sit for a minute with the key turned on. During this time, the voltage gauge bounced around. I accidently left the wipers on and they start moving super slowly. Then, all of the sudden I hear a very low hum and at the same time the voltage gauge stops jumping, I turn the key and it starts no problem.

The car drove smoothly all the way home and back. When I started it up to come home (I was home for about 1hr), it started without a catch.

 

['99 EB Explorer]

Hmm...now it's starting to sound like a short somewhere. Check/clean your battery posts/cable connectors and make sure they're snug.

Try and find where the humm is coming from...that could be your fuel pump priming. Maybe a short in the fuel pump circuit causing this?

And as for your comment on the truck running smoothly since you changed the fuel cap...you originally said you changed the OIL cap in your first post, so I thought nothing of it.

 

[Earl43P]

The oil cap would introduce air (vacuum leak) and it'll run/idle poorly.
Fuel filler cap won't.

Turn the key to Run, fuel pump runs for a couple seconds, with an audible hum.
You are "priming" the fuel system (repeat it if needed Run/Off/Run/crank it) which builds up the fuel pressure.

Your fuel pressure is leaking down when shut off. That could be a fuel filter, FPR, stuck open injector, etc. Continue to "prime it" for each start till you figure out what the problem is.

I'd need more info on the one instance when it wouldn't crank at all. Usual suspects are battery connections/cables, starter, solenoid and alternator (if battery is dead). Many AP stores will test battery and alternator for free while installed.. Starter if removed.

 

[adsm08]

92 2.3l, is that coil pack or distributor? I can't remember which year the 4-cyl switched.

 

[kyleannkelsey]

It has a coil pack. I forgot to metion, I put a new ICM in it last September.

 

[kyleannkelsey]

The oil cap would introduce air (vacuum leak) and it'll run/idle poorly.
Fuel filler cap won't.

Turn the key to Run, fuel pump runs for a couple seconds, with an audible hum.
You are "priming" the fuel system (repeat it if needed Run/Off/Run/crank it) which builds up the fuel pressure.

Your fuel pressure is leaking down when shut off. That could be a fuel filter, FPR, stuck open injector, etc. Continue to "prime it" for each start till you figure out what the problem is.

I'd need more info on the one instance when it wouldn't crank at all. Usual suspects are battery connections/cables, starter, solenoid and alternator (if battery is dead). Many AP stores will test battery and alternator for free while installed.. Starter if removed.

It actually wouldn't crank over most of the times that I tried to start it without "priming". It just clicks, no check engine light. I'll get rid of some corrosion on the battery terminals and check the alternator tonight. The battery is not dead and has been fully charged throught this whole thing. If the battery is still doing well, which makes me leery to suspect the alternator, but best to rule it out.
I put a new starter in it like three years ago, but I was is school, so I bought the cheapest thing I could find online. I haven't had any strained chugging while it starts or anything. Since I do not want to take my starter off to be tested..I'm not ready to look there.