2.3L ('83-'97) 92 2.3 having some problems.

[ireallydontcare]

Howdy everyone. Recently bought a 92 5 speed with a 2.3. I bought it non running and all it needed was the eec relay. It seems to be kinda down on power, and I'm getting terrible gas mileage, 16.

The CEL has been on since I've gotten it running.
Codes are (KOER)
116 - ECT out of range
172 - O2 not switching, lean
327 - EGR signal low
411 - idle not proper
179 - rich at part throttle (KOEO)

It had a brand new O2 sensor on it. I went ahead and replaced it with another one I had lying around that I know is good. Still has the same codes. I went ahead and ordered a new ECT sensor, but if that doesn't fix, could it be a bad computer?

 

[franklin2]

Make sure the thermostat is working. When you first start it cold, you should have no flow through the radiator when you look inside, and the upper radiator hose should be cold. It should stay that way for awhile and then suddenly get hot and start flowing when the thermostat opens. If there is flow and the upper radiator hose is slowly getting warm, the previous owner may have taken the thermostat completely out.

 

[ireallydontcare]

Make sure the thermostat is working. When you first start it cold, you should have no flow through the radiator when you look inside, and the upper radiator hose should be cold. It should stay that way for awhile and then suddenly get hot and start flowing when the thermostat opens. If there is flow and the upper radiator hose is slowly getting warm, the previous owner may have taken the thermostat completely out.

I forgot to mention I put a brand new one on it, and it is definitely working properly.

 

[franklin2]

The ECT is pretty important and can cause a lot of problems. Hopefully that helps it when you get it installed. Make sure to disconnect the battery to clear the codes after you install it to start fresh.

 

[ireallydontcare]

Upon closer inspection, the ect sensor has been replaced as well.
I decided to try to clear the codes. First I pulled my wire out of the test connector while it was flashing the codes. Check engine light was still on. Then I decided to unhook both battery terminals and leave them for 30 minutes. Check engine light is still on!
I'm starting to think the computer is bad. Everything I've read says doing one of those 2 things should clear codes, with pulling the paperclip out being the proper way. Anyone have any input?

 

[ireallydontcare]

I don't guess these capacitors look bad do they....

 

[franklin2]

I hate to keep harping on the same thing all the time, but look at this video at about 39:00.

 

[ireallydontcare]

Well I really don't see how that could be causing all of my issue, but I do have one on the way from rock auto, so I will put it in for sure.

 

[corerftech]

Caps look good. The x in top of each is like a burst panel should be flat. Any arching of the top causing you to notice the pie cuts is pressure from leakage current heating. The bottom has a rubber seal and it can squeeze out as well.
Still could be bad…. But unlikely. Looking at caps tells only about 1/5 of the story. Your look good/ for all that it is worth (1/5 of my 2 cents)

That’s a great video BTW

 

[franklin2]

Well I really don't see how that could be causing all of my issue, but I do have one on the way from rock auto, so I will put it in for sure.

You have to chip away at those codes. Start with the code 116, the new sensor may or may not make the code go away, there may be something else there, check the pins like in the video before you put it in. If you happen to get rid of the code 116, the other codes may remain and you might have to address them one at a time. The rule is work on the codes at the top of the list first, which would be the first ones that come in from the computer.

 

[ireallydontcare]

Well I replaced my ECT sensor and code 116 went away! Now to move to the O2 sensor code I suppose. I'm gonna go ahead and buy a new one today.

 

[Jazzer]

Check the O2 wiring and connecter first…..

 

[ireallydontcare]

I replaced the O2 sensor and while it does seem to run better, it didn't completely fix it. It went from code 172 to 173. It also doesn't stumble and run really bad like it did before in the KOER test. I will pull the airbox so I can better inspect the wires running from it.

 

[franklin2]

Make sure you always pull the battery cable off to clear the codes after you do some work to it. One code may cause another. The ECT being bad could cause the engine to over fuel and foul the O2 sensors. These older EECIV computer systems are difficult to diagnose sometimes.

 

[ireallydontcare]

I pulled the battery and the code remained. However I finally figured it all out. Code 411 was caused by someone messing with the "idle screw". Turned the idle back down and that code went away.
The O2 sensor code was something I tried on a whim. My truck has always ran kinda cold. I replaced the thermostat hoping it would help that. Even after replacement the truck still runs cool, but the thermostat definitely works now. I decided to put the cardboard I use for super cold mornings in front of the radiator and drove it for about 20 minutes straight highway. The temp was between the o and r in normal. I then ran a KOER test, and the only code it threw was the EVP being bad.