91 2.3 Ranger Automatic transmission help

[greatwolf222]

hey guys its been awhile but i just bought a 91 ranger today for $500 and remembered my login so here we go, this 91 ranger has alot of little problems but the major deal is the transmission isnt shifting right, the guy said the motor is newer and torque coverter but i noticed when shifting out of park the trans kicks in hard and shifts hard but the main problem is no 4th gear, i looked for the TV cable but it isnt mounted at the throttle body it looks like it goes into the firewall with the adjustment button touching the firewall. I do know a bit about this year ranger but not the transmission, this is the first auto ranger ive ever owned so any help would be appreciated.

 

[RonD]

1991 Ranger will have an A4LD automatic

There is a Vacuum hose on the passenger side, check this hose for ATF, shouldn't be any of course, part is called Vacuum modulator, but doesn't read like your problem, just a good thing to check

It doesn't have a shift cable, it does have a 3-4shift solenoid inside the transmission, also a TCC(torque convert control) solenoid, locks torque converter when driving for better MPG

You can test both solenoids with an OHM meter from the outside of transmission

On the drivers side, just in front of the shifter, will be a 3 wire plug in, check that its there and plugged in

Example of plug in here: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=63585&d=1351733124

The center wire gives both solenoids 12volts when key is on, so is connected to both, the other two wires connect to the computer, computer GROUNDS that wire to activate that solenoid

Unplug the connection
Test if center wire has 12volts, key on, if not its a wiring problem, no fuse for this one, 12v comes from PCM power relay, and engine wouldn't run if this relay or its fuse was blown

If you have 12v then turn key off and switch meter to OHMs
On the transmission side connector put one probe on the center tab, and the other probe on either other tab
you should see 26-40 OHMs, test both
If one is out of range then pan will need to come off to replace one or both solenoids, its not hard to do

If solenoids both test as OK and you have the 12volts, then its most likely a wiring issue from that connector to the computer behind passenger side kick panel in the cab
Computer pin 52 is for 3-4 shift, 53 is for TCC



And just as an FYI, above the shifter on drivers side of trans is the NSS(neutral safety switch), this tells computer when you are "in gear" but also passes starter activation voltage when trans is in Park or Neutral, AND also activates Reverse/Backup lights

 

[greatwolf222]

1991 Ranger will have an A4LD automatic

There is a Vacuum hose on the passenger side, check this hose for ATF, shouldn't be any of course, part is called Vacuum modulator, but doesn't read like your problem, just a good thing to check

It doesn't have a shift cable, it does have a 3-4shift solenoid inside the transmission, also a TCC(torque convert control) solenoid, locks torque converter when driving for better MPG

You can test both solenoids with an OHM meter from the outside of transmission

On the drivers side, just in front of the shifter, will be a 3 wire plug in, check that its there and plugged in

Example of plug in here: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=63585&d=1351733124

The center wire gives both solenoids 12volts when key is on, so is connected to both, the other two wires connect to the computer, computer GROUNDS that wire to activate that solenoid

Unplug the connection
Test if center wire has 12volts, key on, if not its a wiring problem, no fuse for this one, 12v comes from PCM power relay, and engine wouldn't run if this relay or its fuse was blown

If you have 12v then turn key off and switch meter to OHMs
On the transmission side connector put one probe on the center tab, and the other probe on either other tab
you should see 26-40 OHMs, test both
If one is out of range then pan will need to come off to replace one or both solenoids, its not hard to do

If solenoids both test as OK and you have the 12volts, then its most likely a wiring issue from that connector to the computer behind passenger side kick panel in the cab
Computer pin 52 is for 3-4 shift, 53 is for TCC



And just as an FYI, above the shifter on drivers side of trans is the NSS(neutral safety switch), this tells computer when you are "in gear" but also passes starter activation voltage when trans is in Park or Neutral, AND also activates Reverse/Backup lights

I just looked under the dash to see what the cable was and it looks like a TV cable but it's broken, is it possible this truck has had a transmission swap too? Can't send picture it's too big but it definitely shows 2 cables attached to the gas pedal

 

[RonD]

Cruise control and throttle cable are the 2 cables

Picture of A4LD drivers side here: https://www.charlietranny.com/A4LDds.JPG

You can see NSS above shifter, and 3 wire solenoid connector in front of shifter sticking up from pan

Passenger side picture here: https://www.charlietranny.com/A4LDps.JPG

Vacuum modulator is gold color


Yes, some one could have swapped in a C3 transmission, and it is only a 3-speed, no OD

Count the pan bolts: https://therangerstation.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/ford_ranger_automatic_transmission_pan_bolt_patterns.png

 

[greatwolf222]

Cruise control and throttle cable are the 2 cables

Picture of A4LD drivers side here: https://www.charlietranny.com/A4LDds.JPG

You can see NSS above shifter, and 3 wire solenoid connector in front of shifter sticking up from pan

Passenger side picture here: https://www.charlietranny.com/A4LDps.JPG

Vacuum modulator is gold color


Yes, some one could have swapped in a C3 transmission, and it is only a 3-speed, no OD

Count the pan bolts: https://therangerstation.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/ford_ranger_automatic_transmission_pan_bolt_patterns.png

Before I go to work tomorrow I'll check the bolt pattern and the electrical connecter on the transmission and update you, thank you

 

[tomw]

If your modulator is leaky, or the pin missing, you will get VERY late upshifts. The trans will not want to get out of 1st gear until the engine is revving pretty high. A hard engagement into gear can have several causes. What is the idle rpm? If too high, it won't engage smoothly. If line pressure is too high, ditto.
If the vacuum line to the modulator is loose or leaks, you will get late upshift. You might also not get OD as the transmission would react as if you were at WOT, and not upshift ever to OD, or converter lockup.
If the linkage was mal-adjusted, it might not be in the OD position, and you would never get OD. The OD drum and band are slightly weak in that design, but should work OK if you don't try to poke too much power through. The same trans can handle a 4.0 V6, so most 2.3 Limas will not be able to ruin them without some driver effort, but time will take a toll on everything. Be sure to check the fluid level, engine and transmission hot at idle on level ground. Low fluid level can cause intermittent problems(repeatable, but not always)
tom

 

[greatwolf222]

Video of what I think is the TV cable, the truck idlesbat 500 rpm and still engages hard, the modulator is getting vacuum right from the intake. Tomorrow I'm going to be able to work on the truck all day so any troubleshooting ideas will be greatly appreciated

 

[greatwolf222]

Tomorrow I'm going to replace the shift modulator along with all the vacuum lines hopefully and test the shift solenoids

 

[RonD]

And the transmission pan has how many bolts?

That's more useful than the cable at this point

 

[greatwolf222]

And the transmission pan has how many bolts?

That's more useful than the cable at this point

I forgot to check I'll get that tomorrow

 

[greatwolf222]

And the transmission pan has how many bolts?

That's more useful than the cable at this point

Ok guys updates and questions, the trans has an 18 bolt pattern so that means its a A4LD?
i had to cut the cat out to replace the shift modulator, the old one had a pin in it but the new modulator did not, i know it was stupid but i was in a hurry and wasnt thinking so i installed the new modulator without the pin but ill fix that in the morning. my question is do i need to adjust the set screw in the back of the new shift modulator or is it good to go out of the box? the old one looks like it could possibly have a set screw in the back but if it does its adjusted really far into the housing and the new one isn't.

also there wasn't any trans fluid in the vacuum line coming off the old modulator and it had a very rough wet sloshing sound when actuated by hand.

 

[greatwolf222]

Update, replaced shift modulator and got it up to 22mph and still didn't shift, and it's still engaging really hard... I'm about to just swap a 5 speed and be done

 

[tomw]

If the governor was sticking or missing, it would not produce the hydraulic signal of current speed. The output shaft slings a weight that moves to open/cover some hydraulic slits and indicate velocity(speed). If jammed, there's be no 'upshift' urge from the transmission valve body.
Have you looked at a trouble shooting tree? I know the one I did in an A* van, with 4.0 would wait until about 25mph when the modulator was disconnected. The rubber tube that connected the modulator tube to the carburetor was oiled, and tended to fall off. Access in the A* was difficult. Either way, if there is no pin installed before the modulator is installed, you will get LATE upshifts.
Will it ever shift to 3rd or OD?(if the switch enables OD) You may feel you are revving the engine too high, but it will tell if all the parts are still there and functional. If no 3rd or OD, something is wrong.
If there are two arms on the side of the transmission, one would be the gear selector, the other throttle pressure. If you have them, and the throttle pressure is not connected to the linkage, it could be driving(shifting) as if you had pedal to the metal, and of course would stay in lower gears as long as it could.
Some had levers, some had cables. If this is a swap from another vintage or another model(4/6?), it might need throttle pressure input to work properly.
Throttle pressure, governor and modulator are the three things that control upshifts if it is old enough to only have a couple solenoids. More electrical connections would be needed(I think) for a vehicle with electronic speed sensor.
tom
tom

 

[greatwolf222]

If the governor was sticking or missing, it would not produce the hydraulic signal of current speed. The output shaft slings a weight that moves to open/cover some hydraulic slits and indicate velocity(speed). If jammed, there's be no 'upshift' urge from the transmission valve body.
Have you looked at a trouble shooting tree? I know the one I did in an A* van, with 4.0 would wait until about 25mph when the modulator was disconnected. The rubber tube that connected the modulator tube to the carburetor was oiled, and tended to fall off. Access in the A* was difficult. Either way, if there is no pin installed before the modulator is installed, you will get LATE upshifts.
Will it ever shift to 3rd or OD?(if the switch enables OD) You may feel you are revving the engine too high, but it will tell if all the parts are still there and functional. If no 3rd or OD, something is wrong.
If there are two arms on the side of the transmission, one would be the gear selector, the other throttle pressure. If you have them, and the throttle pressure is not connected to the linkage, it could be driving(shifting) as if you had pedal to the metal, and of course would stay in lower gears as long as it could.
Some had levers, some had cables. If this is a swap from another vintage or another model(4/6?), it might need throttle pressure input to work properly.
Throttle pressure, governor and modulator are the three things that control upshifts if it is old enough to only have a couple solenoids. More electrical connections would be needed(I think) for a vehicle with electronic speed sensor.
tom
tom

i replaced the shift modulator and made sure the pin was seated and it still acts the same way hard engages out of park and wont shift... do you think my speedo not working has something to do with it also?

 

[greatwolf222]

If the governor was sticking or missing, it would not produce the hydraulic signal of current speed. The output shaft slings a weight that moves to open/cover some hydraulic slits and indicate velocity(speed). If jammed, there's be no 'upshift' urge from the transmission valve body.
Have you looked at a trouble shooting tree? I know the one I did in an A* van, with 4.0 would wait until about 25mph when the modulator was disconnected. The rubber tube that connected the modulator tube to the carburetor was oiled, and tended to fall off. Access in the A* was difficult. Either way, if there is no pin installed before the modulator is installed, you will get LATE upshifts.
Will it ever shift to 3rd or OD?(if the switch enables OD) You may feel you are revving the engine too high, but it will tell if all the parts are still there and functional. If no 3rd or OD, something is wrong.
If there are two arms on the side of the transmission, one would be the gear selector, the other throttle pressure. If you have them, and the throttle pressure is not connected to the linkage, it could be driving(shifting) as if you had pedal to the metal, and of course would stay in lower gears as long as it could.
Some had levers, some had cables. If this is a swap from another vintage or another model(4/6?), it might need throttle pressure input to work properly.
Throttle pressure, governor and modulator are the three things that control upshifts if it is old enough to only have a couple solenoids. More electrical connections would be needed(I think) for a vehicle with electronic speed sensor.
tom
tom

when i drove it home after buying it it would only shift at 3500rpm and wouldnt shift to 4th or lock the torque converter