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89 Ranger 4.0 Swap and Hunting Rig, the Houndrunner

Rowdy Fitzgerald

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Has anyone ran hyperco coils on their coil overs? I found them online for a fairly reasonable price.
 


Rowdy Fitzgerald

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My coil overs came in today! I was so busy that I couldn’t even open the box though. I should have time to look them over on Sunday when I get back home from work. I don’t plan on attempting to install them until later this summer when I get everything gathered so I can minimize the down time. In all reality, I hope to have them installed by Sept. I fully expect to be stuck at work due to fires, all summer.
 

Rowdy Fitzgerald

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Swappin the chevy leafs in today. Had to run to town to get bolts and hardware for the swap. Hopefully I’ll be done before dark...

The coil overs for the front!
 

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Rowdy Fitzgerald

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Total Lift
6”
Tire Size
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Rear springs are in. I’ve still gotta measure for new shocks and get 2 more bolts that are a little longer, for the front hangers. I think I’m gonna need a little bit bigger blocks to level it with the front once I install the coil overs.
 

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Rowdy Fitzgerald

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302
Transmission
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Total Lift
6”
Tire Size
35
While research and price shopping, I came across these. Hopefully they help someone else when they’re doing their build.




 

BlackBII

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Those coil overs look sweet! Can't wait to see them installed. Truck is looking good, if it sits a little high in the front I think that's okay. Better than sitting high in the rear

That's how I deal with rivets as well. A few cuts and then an air hammer makes really quick work of them.
 

Rowdy Fitzgerald

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302
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Total Lift
6”
Tire Size
35
Those coil overs look sweet! Can't wait to see them installed. Truck is looking good, if it sits a little high in the front I think that's okay. Better than sitting high in the rear

That's how I deal with rivets as well. A few cuts and then an air hammer makes really quick work of them.
Thanks, yeah the air hammer is definitely the way to go. I had each bracket off in about 20 min. I am completely new to coil overs so I am learning as I go. I hope to build the RA’s in the next month or so, then start tearing the front end apart for a full rebuild along with gears, locker and plating the beams.
I still need to get limiting straps and bump stops, along with the DOM and enduro joints you suggested.
 

Rowdy Fitzgerald

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Tire Size
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So the Enduro joints along with bungs and jam nuts have been ordered. I still have to call around Reno and Sparks to find a company that stocks or can order dom tubing for me. I also need to build a K-link steering system, after I finish rebuilding the front end.

I think I need to do some research and find higher strength Mig wire. I welded some brackets on a axle a while back. The welds cracked on one of them. I had clean surfaces, had a root weld with a second pass over it and had good penetration. The weld itself cracked when a curb was hit. I’m gonna hit up some welding shops to see what they cary or recommend.
 

Rowdy Fitzgerald

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I called around and priced DOM. It’s ridiculously expensive right now. I haven’t bought any yet.
I’ve done a little research on building K link steering.
I was originally thinkin about ordering an idler arm, then building a bracket to accept the “tie rod end”. Then on the open side of the idler arm, I’d ream it to accept a gm 1 ton TRE for the steering. But I realized the TRE would flop around, uncontrolled and always sag low.

So I’m gonna build an idler arm out of a pitman arm after all.
 

BlackBII

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Do you have any pics of the cracked welds?

I just bought a bunch of DOM for my Fiat and it was about twice as much as I was expecting. Crazy expensive. When I did my K link I used a pitman arm as my idler and it worked really well and made getting the center link square much easier. I used 1.5" .120 wall and 1.25" .120 wall. Probably overkill for a Ranger, but I'm okay with steering being over built.
 

BlackBII

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I think your thread will get more views/responses if it were in the builds section instead of the 4.0 forum
 

Uncle Gump

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I actually edited your thread title and moved this to the off road truck section.

If you want things changed back... I can do that too.

@BlackBII suggestion above made sense to me.

Just another 4.0L swap gone wild!
 

Rowdy Fitzgerald

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Total Lift
6”
Tire Size
35
I’m good with the relocation, thank you.


Do you have any pics of the cracked welds?

I just bought a bunch of DOM for my Fiat and it was about twice as much as I was expecting. Crazy expensive. When I did my K link I used a pitman arm as my idler and it worked really well and made getting the center link square much easier. I used 1.5" .120 wall and 1.25" .120 wall. Probably overkill for a Ranger, but I'm okay with steering being over built.

No, I don’t have any pictures. Long story, but I sold the truck and then they told me about it.

That’s pretty much what I’m imagining for mine. But I have some 1/2” thick tube that I’ll be using. I wish I had a lathe, so I could get my tolerances correct.
I’m perfectly fine with overkill too, lol.
 

Rowdy Fitzgerald

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Location
Squaw Valley, Ca
Vehicle Year
1987
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Type
V8
Engine Size
302
Transmission
Manual
Total Lift
6”
Tire Size
35
I should be getting off work this Sunday. I plan to tear into the front end Sunday or Monday. I ordered some tube for the RA’s and I’m gonna build the RA brackets. I hope to have it mostly done next week. I’m gonna hold off on the coil over install until I get a little more spare cash to buy everything and have it on hand. I’m gonna run the front suspension as is, until then.
I ordered new wear pads and center bolts for the spring packs. I’m gonna put add a leafs in and see how it sets. I think it’ll set right once I load it up.
 

Rowdy Fitzgerald

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Location
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1987
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Type
V8
Engine Size
302
Transmission
Manual
Total Lift
6”
Tire Size
35
So here’s my list for the K link steering. It may be possible to build it all, with the tube from the cross over kit. I won’t know until I start the mock up though. I think after cutting the tie rods, the left over tube will be a little too short to build the idler/drag link. That’s why I included the drag link kit in the list.
It comes out to $365 before taxes and shipping. This doesn’t include hardware or converting the knuckles and pitman arms over to double sheer or tapered inserts for the original TRE holes.



These X 2



I was also thinkin of building the Idler arm/drag link with two of these: https://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/TREYLINK.html

Then the tie rods would connect to opposite ends, making them as long as possible. But this would require larger tube for the drag link, to accommodate the TRE’s. Here’s my preschooler level of drawing, depicting this.
 

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