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88 Bronco 2, no headlights unless you switch from low to high beam, then they work fine


wildbill23c

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So this morning when I went to turn on the lights, all I got were the front side and rear marker and parking lights, no headlights. Thought that's odd, flipped the high beam switch and they came on and flipped it back to low beam and the headlights stay on like nothing is wrong, but after I turn the lights off and back on again I have to flip the low/high beam switch to get them to turn on.

My guess is one of the switches is going bad. Which one though? My thought since they turn on when I flip the low/high beam switch on the turn signal lever they work, is the turn signal & low/high beam assembly is bad or would it be the regular light switch itself behind the knob in the dash? Any certain way to really tell?
 


franklin2

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If you fiddle with the main light switch and it doesn't fix them, but messing with the turnsignal switch does, I too suspect the high/low switch. Ford used to call it the "multi-function switch".
 

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I would have to agree...

It would be worth having a look at the actual headlamp switch connector. I seen a few of those connectors with heat issues over the years.
 

wildbill23c

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Thanks guys. How hard is it to remove the light switch and the turn signal switch? I fiddled with the light switch and it didn't seem to do anything different, but the multi-function/turn signal switch going from low to high beam and back turned the head lights on so my assumption is that's bad, but yes I definitely want to check both, wouldn't surprise me to find some corrosion in the main light switch connection, and wouldn't surprise me in the multi-function switch either. However, how hard are they to remove?
 

franklin2

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  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. For tilt column only, remove the upper extension shroud by squeezing it at the 6 and 12 o'clock positions and popping it free of the retaining plate at the 3 o'clock position.
  2. Remove the 2 trim shroud halves by removing the 2 attaching screws.
  3. Remove the turn signal switch lever by grasping the lever and by using a pulling and twisting motion of the hand while pulling the lever straight out from the switch.
  4. Peel back the foam sight shield from the turn signal switch.
  5. Disconnect the 2 turn signal switch electrical connectors.
  6. Remove the 2 self-tapping screws attaching the turn signal switch to the lock cylinder housing. Disengage the switch from the housing.

To install:

  1. Align the turn signal switch mounting holes with the corresponding holes in the lock cylinder housing, and install 2 self-tapping screws.
  2. Stick the foam sight shield to the turn signal switch.
  3. Install the turn signal switch lever into the switch manually, by aligning the key on the lever with the keyway in the switch and by pushing the lever toward the switch to full engagement.
  4. Install the 2 turn signal switch electrical connectors to full engagement.
  5. Install the steering column trim shrouds.
 

adsm08

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Multifunction switch is easy. Gotta get the 2 philips screws out of the shrouds, get the two T-20 screws out of the switch, and get it unplugged. That last bit is the hard part. I just did mine today for the exact same symptom.

Main light switch is harder, but if your headlights work at all it isn't your problem. The main switch sends power up to the dimmer switch and it directs it to the high or low beam circuit.
 

wildbill23c

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    • Disconnect the negative battery cable. For tilt column only, remove the upper extension shroud by squeezing it at the 6 and 12 o'clock positions and popping it free of the retaining plate at the 3 o'clock position.

    • Remove the 2 trim shroud halves by removing the 2 attaching screws.

    • Remove the turn signal switch lever by grasping the lever and by using a pulling and twisting motion of the hand while pulling the lever straight out from the switch.

    • Peel back the foam sight shield from the turn signal switch.

    • Disconnect the 2 turn signal switch electrical connectors.

    • Remove the 2 self-tapping screws attaching the turn signal switch to the lock cylinder housing. Disengage the switch from the housing.
To install:



    • Align the turn signal switch mounting holes with the corresponding holes in the lock cylinder housing, and install 2 self-tapping screws.

    • Stick the foam sight shield to the turn signal switch.

    • Install the turn signal switch lever into the switch manually, by aligning the key on the lever with the keyway in the switch and by pushing the lever toward the switch to full engagement.

    • Install the 2 turn signal switch electrical connectors to full engagement.

    • Install the steering column trim shrouds.
Thanks, that's gonna be pretty simple to do.
 

wildbill23c

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Multifunction switch is easy. Gotta get the 2 philips screws out of the shrouds, get the two T-20 screws out of the switch, and get it unplugged. That last bit is the hard part. I just did mine today for the exact same symptom.

Main light switch is harder, but if your headlights work at all it isn't your problem. The main switch sends power up to the dimmer switch and it directs it to the high or low beam circuit.
Sounds like a pretty easy job, thank you as always. I'll get the multi-function switch ordered this weekend.
 

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Sounds like a pretty easy job, thank you as always. I'll get the multi-function switch ordered this weekend.

Alternatively, and much cheaper, you could convert to a foot switch.

$25 for a quality switch, $12 for a connector, a few bucks for wiring supplies. Cut the red/yellow wire at the MFS and attach to the center post of the foot switch, the red/black double wire is your highs, the green/black double is your lows, they can each go on either side. Use two self-tappers to attach under the parking brake pedal. Be sure to cut the carpet and insulation back and mount it directly to the floor pan with nothing under the connector.

Last time I priced a MFS they were over $120.
 

wildbill23c

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Alternatively, and much cheaper, you could convert to a foot switch.

$25 for a quality switch, $12 for a connector, a few bucks for wiring supplies. Cut the red/yellow wire at the MFS and attach to the center post of the foot switch, the red/black double wire is your highs, the green/black double is your lows, they can each go on either side. Use two self-tappers to attach under the parking brake pedal. Be sure to cut the carpet and insulation back and mount it directly to the floor pan with nothing under the connector.

Last time I priced a MFS they were over $120.
I ordered a MFS off Rock Auto for $28 with shipping/tax. The floor switch sounds like a possible mod later though. Thanks again.
 

Cees Klumper

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My brake lights stopped working a couple months ago. I decided to have a look at the multi-function switch. Turned out, some of the wires that plug into that switch (on the steering column) had just eased their way out of their little sockets. I pushed them back in, checking that they seated firmly, and presto, brake lights functional again. Brighter too, and now the indicator lights also flash a bit quicker - as if more juice is passing through the multi-function switch, which I think is the case. So check the connections inside the switch, that may all be that it needs, like in my case. Took less than 10 minutes and was free.
 

Eddo Rogue

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Did you check the bulbs?
 

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My brake lights stopped working a couple months ago. I decided to have a look at the multi-function switch. Turned out, some of the wires that plug into that switch (on the steering column) had just eased their way out of their little sockets. I pushed them back in, checking that they seated firmly, and presto, brake lights functional again. Brighter too, and now the indicator lights also flash a bit quicker - as if more juice is passing through the multi-function switch, which I think is the case. So check the connections inside the switch, that may all be that it needs, like in my case. Took less than 10 minutes and was free.

You should check that connector shell. It may be melted.
 

Cees Klumper

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Thanks, but it was in great, clean shape. Just 3 or so of the small pins had backed themselves out of their 'sockets' but no sign of heat, dirt or anything, so I felt comfortable just pushing them back in, seating again properly.
 

wildbill23c

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Did you check the bulbs?
Why would I do that when the bulbs work when you flip from low to high beam and back. Its not a bulb issue it is a switch issue 100%. Just waiting on USPS to stop screwing with shipping and get me my damn package that was supposed to have been delivered today. Doesn't take 4 days to ship something from Colorado to Idaho...could have driven there and back quicker than USPS can ship stuff that's supposed to be 2nd day Priority Mail. Took me almost a month to get a package last month that was sent overnight....glad I wasn't the one paying the overnight rate LOL.

The switch itself has been pretty stiff for quite a while in cold weather, and my guess was the initial sign that something was wrong. The same switch in my 87 Ranger doesn't have any issues and doesn't have that stiff feel to it in cold weather like the one in the Bronco 2 does. Need to do some digging on the steering column on the Bronco 2 anyways to see why the hell its so loose again. Shop tightened up some bolts on it a while back, its loose again, thinking maybe a bolt or something might be stripped, have to check it out when I have everything torn apart.
 

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