87 XLT - Factory Optioned Restoration

[1qaz]

Completed some smaller jobs to take care of the parts I've been collecting.

Found a NOS driver's side mirror.









Installed 'premium' stereo...rear speakers now work!! (Thanks for the lead Mike Tonon!)



Replaced both headlights. How To posted here: First Gen Grill Removal and Headlight Change




Also, found a first gen front stabilizer bar at the salvage yard.



Costs:

NOS Driver's Side Mirror: $40
Upgraded Ford Factory Radio: $16.95
Headlights: $34
Sway Bar: $13 plus a $3 core charge

Total: $106.95

Tracking down the sway bar bushings now.

 

[1qaz]

A peak under the hood. Not perfect by progressing....

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Looking really nice.

Those mirrors really pop.

I found a battery hold down at the JY yesterday...and my battery is too big.

 

[RockRanger]

I have spent the last six months off and on looking for a clean first gen ranger. So far no luck. I am jealous of your restoration. Keep up the clean work.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

 

[RangerFabWorks]

I have spent the last six months off and on looking for a clean first gen ranger. So far no luck. I am jealous of your restoration. Keep up the clean work.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

I currently have 2 of them. One running and driving. Other one is disassembled. Has some rust in the firewall but that's it!

 

[XLTsplash]

I remember when these Rangers were new. It's nice to see a older on looking new again. It's fun finding NOS parts to make a old vehicle on step closer to being new again.

 

[1qaz]

I have spent the last six months off and on looking for a clean first gen ranger. So far no luck. I am jealous of your restoration. Keep up the clean work.

Thank you! There's lot of them out there...it's just a matter of how much work you're willing to put into them.

I remember when these Rangers were new. It's nice to see a older on looking new again. It's fun finding NOS parts to make a old vehicle on step closer to being new again.

Finding the right parts is certainly getting harder...and the prices are going up. But you're right, it is fun...especially when you find a rare part at a good price.

Speaking of...found this set of Ford factory shop manuals for $50 delivered. Though no author is listed on the cover I'm pretty sure it is RonD.

 

[Rangerx2]

Subscribing

That is one clean looking Ranger! I don't think my old 86 ever looked that good when it was still fairly new! And where are you finding all this NOS stuff at for the first gen Rangers? I didn't think there was any of it left.
I'm starting to look for a first gen to restore. Ideally I'd really like to locate the same '86 Ranger I had in high school, but if I can't then I want another one similar, that means post-86 Supercab, preferably with the 5-speed. There's a few up my way on Craigslist every now and again, but now many. Most are pretty rusty up here. Most up here are 4x4 too. Mine was only 4x2 with the 2.3 fuel injected motor.

 

[1qaz]

That is one clean looking Ranger! I don't think my old 86 ever looked that good when it was still fairly new! And where are you finding all this NOS stuff at for the first gen Rangers?

Thanks! It's definitely getting harder to find NOS parts. If you have the part number it certainly makes it easier.

I did find new bushings for the front stabilizer bar...both eBay finds.



Costs: $14 for one pair, $16 for the other.
Total = $30

 

[Rangerx2]

Thanks! It's definitely getting harder to find NOS parts. If you have the part number it certainly makes it easier.

I did find new bushings for the front stabilizer bar...both eBay finds.



Costs: $14 for one pair, $16 for the other.
Total = $30

How much do the second gen's have in common in terms of suspension bits? Is it all the same parts from 83 up to 92?

 

[1qaz]

How much do the second gen's have in common in terms of suspension bits? Is it all the same parts from 83 up to 92?

For the most part I think they are interchangeable. The front axles on the second gen do differ slightly as the sway bar bolts to the front of them vice to the radius arms under the cross member as on the first gen (2WD of course). When doing my front suspension I interchanged parts between to the two generations. Most parts in the rear suspension were also carried into the second gens. I haven't yet tackled mine but the parts research indicates lots of compatibility.

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I've been at this restoration for a couple of years now. Here's a recap of the work done so far.

Before:

Purchase Price: $3800
Engine: $538 (timing belt, water pump, power steering, valve cover gasket, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, filters, throttle body cleaned, heater core, battery hold down)
Suspension: $781 (front suspension, shocks all around, front sway bar)
Wheels/Brakes: $797 (tires, rims, rotors, pads, shoes, wheel cylinders, caps)
Exhaust: $335 (catalytic converter back)
Exterior: $802 (detailing, mirrors, wipers, tailgate trim, rear chrome window trim, tonneau cover, headlights)
Interior: $87 (Instrument cluster, radio, hood release latch, pedal pads)
Transmission, Differential: $93 (fluids)

Total to Date: $7233

So Far:


I still have a shit ton of work left but have learned a lot and building confidence in doing my own auto repair and maintenance. Since I started this restoration I have saved several thousand dollars doing my own work on multiple vehicles. Well worth the investment.

 

[JoshT]

The front suspensions look the same, but there are some big differences between 83-88 and 89-92 suspensions. Some of your soft parts (axle pivot bushings, radius arm bushings, etc) and springs might interchange, but a lot of the major components won't. Axle beams, steering knuckles, ball joints are all different between the two generations. The 89-92 beams and knuckles will bolt into a 83-88, but you've got to swap over the whole assembly. To swap knuckles from a (IIRC) 94-97 into the earlier models you'll also have to swap in the later model brake components due to different caliper mounting style.

1qaz, truck is looking good. Keep up the hard work. You got something to be proud of.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Currently stockpiling parts to address the front suspension and the interior. OEM coil springs and upper ball joints for a first gen Ranger are more scarce than anticipated. They're on hand now and I have a couple of reasonable NOS suppliers to keep this project original and on budget. More to follow as I find the time to tear out and replace/refurbish my little front end noise maker.

In the interior, the top priority is to clean up the dash and instrument cluster. The original ammeter and coolant temp gauges either don't work or only work intermittently. I've already replaced the temperature sensor and sending unit so it's time to replace the temp gauge. I picked up an instrument cluster at the Pull A Part to practice before I ripped into mine. I could have gone NOS on the gauge but for the cost of one gauge and a little needle paint I can get all four plus a speedometer (but have no need for it).

Cost of instrument cluster = $34.95

Before pic of oil pressure and ammeter gauges:

After a bit of cleaning and needle paint (picked up from eBay):

Final product:

Gauges now sorted. Total cost = $41.90 ($34.95 cluster + $6.95 needle paint)

Any pointers on touching up the gauges? Did you mask the speedometer needle hub and red lines on the gauge face or are you just that good? What size of brush did you use?

I am getting ready to do mine the next time I have the cluster out.

 

[1qaz]

The front suspensions look the same, but there are some big differences between 83-88 and 89-92 suspensions. Some of your soft parts (axle pivot bushings, radius arm bushings, etc) and springs might interchange, but a lot of the major components won't. Axle beams, steering knuckles, ball joints are all different between the two generations. The 89-92 beams and knuckles will bolt into a 83-88, but you've got to swap over the whole assembly. To swap knuckles from a (IIRC) 94-97 into the earlier models you'll also have to swap in the later model brake components due to different caliper mounting style.

Great point, Josh! I was mostly referring to the 'soft' parts. Thank you for adding the major parts into the discussion.

Any pointers on touching up the gauges? Did you mask the speedometer needle hub and red lines on the gauge face or are you just that good? What size of brush did you use?

I am getting ready to do mine the next time I have the cluster out.

At first I tried to tape it off but the area was just too small for me. For the needles I used a sticky note and posted it behind the needle...simple and effective. Be gentle with the needles, especially the fuel gauge. For the brush I got the finest point brush I could find at a hobby store (Hobby Lobby)...mine actually came in a variety pack. I first tried the broader brushes on the needles but they just weren't precise enough. I went to the finer brush and laid the first light coat. Add additional coats as needed in 15 minute increments. Mine took three coats for full coverage and consistency. For the lines on the gauges I used strong reading glasses and a steady hand...go slow! They don't have to be perfect...just close. The lines took a couple coats each.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

At first I tried to tape it off but the area was just too small for me. For the needles I used a sticky note and posted it behind the needle...simple and effective. Be gentle with the needles, especially the fuel gauge. For the brush I got the finest point brush I could find at a hobby store (Hobby Lobby)...mine actually came in a variety pack. I first tried the broader brushes on the needles but they just weren't precise enough. I went to the finer brush and laid the first light coat. Add additional coats as needed in 15 minute increments. Mine took three coats for full coverage and consistency. For the lines on the gauges I used strong reading glasses and a steady hand...go slow! They don't have to be perfect...just close. The lines took a couple coats each.

I am undecided if I want to mess with the lines on the gauge faces. Right now they kinda match the orange of my redline range on the tach. It bugs me having the tach and speedo needles different colors though.

Tach redline range (all the marks between 5500 and 7000 with the numbers 6 and 7) are technically supposed to be red... not sure if I am brave enough to try.

They can make white face overlays... why not black face overlays?

EDIT: I found a place that does make them. I was browsing around and found a "how to paint needle" toutorial... hey I have seen that gauge before

http://www.whitegauges.net/blog/p/how-to-paint-your-instrument-gauge-cluster-needles

OEM semi-gloss (I think that is what I would call it) is a "custom" color which isn't that cheap but still something I think I will do eventually.

http://www.whitegauges.net/products/1983%2d1988-Ford-Ranger-Bronco-II-White-Face-Gauges.html