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87 F150 Won’t Start


RonD

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LOL, jeeze, should have a check engine light and RICH Code, but that wouldn't happen until computer went into Closed Loop, coolant temp above 160deg or so, so 5-8min of run time
 


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BrHotte

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I used to own an 87 150 with the 300 6. Bullet proof engine in my experience. The only engine issue I ever had after many years was the distributor module. I know you are running down fuel issues, but down the road if you get skipping, won't run but starts later on, look into that module. I loved mine. You will enjoy it when you get it running well.
 

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LOL, jeeze, should have a check engine light and RICH Code, but that wouldn't happen until computer went into Closed Loop, coolant temp above 160deg or so, so 5-8min of run time
Just noticed my CEL does not come on when the key is clicked to the on position. Bulb could be burned out. Assuming it’s supposed to illuminate for a second or two, correct. Seems the fuel pressure only started doing this after the new ECU.
 
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RonD

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CEL should come on and stay on until you are cranking the engine over, then it will go OFF if...........it is seeing a timing pulse from spark system

That same OBD1 connector is also hooked to CEL, self-test out: https://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/OBD_I.shtml

Its the same GROUND wire for the CEL bulb in dash, so test light to battery positive and then to Self-Test OUT slot, key on it should light up if computer is booting up
 

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Just took dash apart, Amber check engine and red engine light bulb are both MIA.
 

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RonD

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Some years didn't have a CEL in the dash, I thought far left was CEL but not sure on f150

Test the self-test out slot, to see if it is grounded with key on, you could use that to add CEL to dash
 

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Some years didn't have a CEL in the dash, I thought far left was CEL but not sure on f150

Test the self-test out slot, to see if it is grounded with key on, you could use that to add CEL to dash
Here is my left side/ right side. I’ve got the cluster loose but I’m assuming the Speedo cable is keeping it from coming out far enough. I had to live the Speedo in my ranger from time to time, that one was a pain but way more accessible than this!

So this is when I shorted my ECM out last time. Where is the self test in single plug? I see nothing like it around the area, my ranger is almost taped together. Pictured is what I used last time and that didn’t end up nicely.
 

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Mhfco6

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Alright got it. If I start truck and let it run, light does not stay illuminated on the test light.
 

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RonD

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Forgot about turn signal, lol, so CEL is 2nd from left

No light with engine running = no codes :)
So no "trouble"

Orange check engine light is for computer, should come on with key on then go off when engine is cranking or running, if there are no codes

Red engine light is if oil pressure is low or coolant temp is high, so red light should come on with key on because there is no oil pressure, then go off after start up because there is oil pressure now
 
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Mhfco6

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Forgot about turn signal, lol, so CEL is 2nd from left

No light with engine running = no codes :)
So no "trouble"

Orange check engine light is for computer, should come on with key on then go off when engine is cranking or running, if there are no codes

Red engine light is if oil pressure is low or coolant temp is high, so red light should come on with key on because there is no oil pressure, then go off after start up because there is oil pressure now
So like you said, maybe the bulbs aren’t supposed to be there on this model truck. I’ll ask around about the fuel pressure and let you know what I find out. I know I’ve said it before but people like you really make these forums great, thanks!
 

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I blew compressed air from the selector valve bypass into the tank. I blew air from the selector valve bypass towards the fuel rail and pressure gauge did not move. I’m trying to get the line off now. Am I doing this right? This line does not want to come off, even with my fuel line tool.

I also found this unplugged hole in the top of the valve cover, waaaay in the back. It goes to a fitting in the side of the intake manifold. It’s connected at the intake manifold but missing a rubber grommet or something in the valve cover hole.
 

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RonD

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Yes, that tool should get fuel line off, but while holding the tool in push fuel line towards the tool and it should then pull off


What you describe is where a PCV Valve would go in the valve cover, and then connect to intake manifold, a big vacuum leak if there is no PCV Valve
 

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Yes, that tool should get fuel line off, but while holding the tool in push fuel line towards the tool and it should then pull off


What you describe is where a PCV Valve would go in the valve cover, and then connect to intake manifold, a big vacuum leak if there is no PCV Valve
Yea I’ve pushed and pulled a ton. I’ll keep working at it. What am I missing at the valve cover, a rubber insert around the plastic?
 

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You are missing the PCV Valve, looks like the bottom broke off

Whole unit might look like this: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=174467&stc=1&d=1487367998
Pushed and pulled some more and no luck. When I plug that line where PCV valve should be the truck idled down a lot and purs like a kitten. That a big sucking line, haha. Wonder if that has anything to do with the fuel pressure?

Valves I have found have an extra port on them, does it hook to anything or just plug it off?
 

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