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87 A/C Retrofit questions/checklist


tx_pwp5

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I am shooting for the second gen condenser. Like my 2.8 had the compressor on the DS (same as my 302 will be) so for the first gen setup I would have a hose going from the evaporator to the condenser, then another hose coming out of the condenser and wrapping around the back of the engine coming up to the compressor and then another hose coming out of the compressor, wrapping around the back of the engine again back over to the evaporator.

With the second gen the condenser-to-compressor pipe right in front of the compressor so you lose one of the hoses looping around the back of the engine. Cleaner looking install and fewer variables for those of us that are not stock and will probably have to make our own hoses.

So far I only have the harness and the half of the A/C box I didn't mangle trying to fit with my tall valve covers. For the generic Sandon compressors we upgrade tractors to at work I think it just says with the compressor how much oil, not really caring what color tractor it is going in. I will have to pay more attention to that. :dntknw:


You brought up a good point that made me realize something about all of my posts...

I should stress that I used most of the donor parts out of a 1st gen 2.9 bronco II, and I'm swapping these into an 87 2.9 ranger . I've been referencing 1st gens and second gens while glancing over the fact that there are differences between the 2.8 gen 1, the 2.9 gen 1 and the 2.9 gen 2.

The A/C systems in the 2.8 could vary drastically, or almost none at all, so anyone reading these posts please keep that in mind when doing your own retrofit.

The only thing I didn't use out of that Bronco II was the compressor and the fittings for it, which came out of a 90 or so 2.9 gen 2 that still had pressure in it. I compared the fittings on the end of the hoses that connect to the compressor on both trucks, and they are identical, as is the plug for the harness so hopefully I'll be good. The harness is from the bronco. Oh and I also used the brackets from the gen 2 as well but they are also the same from what I could tell.

So for anyone reading this, in my previous posts I am comparing only the 2.9 gen 1s and 2s, and have no knowledge of the 2.8s
 
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85_Ranger4x4

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Yeah, they moved the compressor around between the 2.3, 3.0 and the 4.0 too.

And for the record my 2.8 had the compressor on the top of the DS of the engine and my 5.0 has it towards the bottom. Same side but not really "the same place"
 

tx_pwp5

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4 inches
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Final List

Things I bought but didn't need:

Expansion Valve
Compressor Fitting
R-134 fittings kit (if you get both adapters they come with everything you need)

Things I needed but didn't buy:
High side R-134 adapter- I bought the low side, but not the high side, so I had that fittings kit but no adapter for them.

I also didn't bother with the wide open throttle (WOT) cut off switch. If I need to turn it off, I'll just push the button.

The thing blows so cold right now I haven't even been able to keep it on for more than a few minutes, its been raining here so much it hasn't really been hot since I got it back. For some reason, my compressor doesn't automatically cut off when you turn the fan to the off position, so I was told to make sure I manually turn it off before I kill the engine, or I could damage the compressor on startup unless the fan is on. Not sure if this is true or not but whatever.

Total cost was about 500 for the junkyard parts and all the new rock auto parts, minus 35-40 bucks or so worth of stuff I had to return, so call it 475 to be safe.

The labor was 1075 (I also had the heater core replaced while they were working on it). I'd intended on doing all that myself, but I recently got married, honeymooned and started a new job so my spare time is zero, and I still would of had to get it vacuumed and charged and stuff, so I just dropped it off while I was gone.

As long as everything holds (my compressor might have a sticky reed valve according to my mechanic) then it will be well worth it for the comfort this summer, plus I can hear my radio and my cab isn't filled with a layer of sticky highway dirt/dust/grime.

Hi again everyone.

Here is an updated parts list of everything needed to start from scratch on this:

(1)compressor-I used a JY unit that was still pressurized and free moving
(1) condenser-new
(3) A/C hoses- new- Will also need hose to compressor fittings if yours don't come with them. These are the same for 1st Gen and at least early 2nd.
(1) evaporator- new but I've heard you can reuse old ones
(1) short wiring harness-JY-connects from dryer to compressor to main harness
(1) Dryer/Accumulator- new
(1) control head- JY piece
(1) evaporator housing got a JY truck, but ditched the motor and resistor pack for the ones from my truck which were in much better shape. Kept the old resistor pack in case it doesn't work right
(2) A/C Brackets
(1) Crankshaft pulley
(1) AC Belt
(1) Low pressure switch that attaches to dryer
(1) Dryer bracket for heater box
(1) I replaced the heater core while I had this all apart
(1) A/C orifice tube
(1) R12 conversion fittings kit
(1) A/C system O-rings, gaskets & seals kit

I also ordered a few other things that were cheap and I didn't know I would need like an A/C expansion valve & Compressor fitting & A/C system valve core & cap kit. I'd rather have them and not need them then be waiting on them while the truck is laid up.

I have 280.00 in new parts from RA including a 50.00 evaporator. I could have probably reused the one that was in the JY heater box. It was in good shape, but with all this time and money the extra 50 seemed worth it.

I also have I think around 200 or so in JY parts, but I've kept track of all that here.

I'm at around 500 or so total and know I still need to get the oil for this. I believe I have to use ester oil because I'm switching refrigerants.

I'm going to let my shop do all the labor on this due to a total lack of time, and the fact that I'll be out of the country for about a week. I'll post back with labor costs for the install including what I can manage to complete before I leave.

Remaining tasks:
ester oil
Gasket between heater box and firewall- I've heard that A/C tape will work for this ok

Does anyone see anything I'm missing? I have two weeks to make a full checklist and tag everything to give to my mechanic. I repainted all the old parts a matte textured black with a flat clear to blend in with the rest of the engine bay.
 

85_Ranger4x4

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Just for future reference the heater core is 5 easily accessible screws and 2 hose clamps.
 

tx_pwp5

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Just for future reference the heater core is 5 easily accessible screws and 2 hose clamps.
I had heard it was especially easy to do. I didn't check to see what they charged me for that portion, but I'm sure it wouldn't have been much of a difference.

The whole project went pretty far over budget, which sucks, but its a clean factory install and its working, so no complaints here.

Hope this helps anyone looking to do this in the future. The write-ups were pretty helpful, and my mechanic said the only thing he had trouble with was remembering where the suction hose ran (around the back of the intake manifold) and that he had to loosed a firewall bolt to get it routed correctly. The other thing I couldn't have done myself was the vacuum and charging because I don't have the tools. I've heard those are easy to make/purchase so someone could do this whole project from scratch for under 600 if they have all the tools needed.
 

4x4junkie

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...For some reason, my compressor doesn't automatically cut off when you turn the fan to the off position, so I was told to make sure I manually turn it off before I kill the engine, or I could damage the compressor on startup unless the fan is on. Not sure if this is true or not but whatever.
Both my '90 & '94 don't shut the compressor off if the fan is turned off, I guess Ford wasn't too concerned about it so I wouldn't worry much about it (shutting the fan off with the comp running can make the evap ice up though, which I suspect would block the airflow until the ice melts, or at least cause a lot of frost to blow out of your vent when you turn it back on lol).

Good you hear you got it all going. Working A/C does make a hot day's drive a lot more pleasant for sure. :icon_thumby:
 
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tx_pwp5

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Both my '90 & '94 don't shut the compressor off if the fan is turned off, I guess Ford wasn't too concerned about it so I wouldn't worry much about it (shutting the fan off with the comp running can make the evap ice up though, which I suspect would block the airflow until the ice melts, or at least cause a lot of frost to blow out of your vent when you turn it back on lol).

Good you hear you got it all going. Working A/C does make a hot day's drive a lot more pleasant for sure. :icon_thumby:
Thanks, it is like night and day for me now. I do about 110 miles a day so the truck feels 10 years newer just because I have cold air at my fingertips.

For some reason my mechanic said I could "blow it up" by letting the compressor run without the fan...I was skeptical because the system compresses the same either way. The fan only blows hot air over the frozen evaporator fins to make the air cold, right? I would think that wouldn't have any effect on the pressure of the system, therefore not giving it the capability of blowing anything up.

...Unless he just meant the sudden surge or varying surge of the ignition voltage could damage it. I guess I could see that, but definitely not blowing anything up.
 

85_Ranger4x4

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The compressor will only maintain the pressure so it won't run much without the fan running. It will limit itself so it won't really matter.

And yes, if the evap ices over it will get toasty until it thaws out. My college car would do that in stop in go traffic, knowing what I know now I should have picked on the high pressure switch because I think it would just run no matter what.

It was awesome right until it quit though, it would put frosty mist out the vents which in the middle of summer is pretty amazing... until it outright quits.
 
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tx_pwp5

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The compressor will only maintain the pressure so it won't run much without the fan running. It will limit itself so it won't really matter.

And yes, if the evap ices over it will get toasty until it thaws out. My college car would do that in stop in go traffic, knowing what I know now I should have picked on the high pressure switch because I think it would just run no matter what.
I did notice that mine is like, north-of-the-wall-in-game-of-thrones cold when I'm driving and warms up in stop and go. I figured from lack of air flow. Nothing out of the ordinary from any other car I've owned, but never thought it might be because the evap is freezing over just like a window unit or house ac.
 

85_Ranger4x4

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I did notice that mine is like, north-of-the-wall-in-game-of-thrones cold when I'm driving and warms up in stop and go. I figured from lack of air flow. Nothing out of the ordinary from any other car I've owned, but never thought it might be because the evap is freezing over just like a window unit or house ac.
Probably more with the airflow over the condenser than the evaporator.
 

tx_pwp5

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4WD
Total Lift
4 inches
Tire Size
31x10.50
My credo
More auto shenanagans on instagram @waterloocustomworks
Some additional notes now that this has been installed for a couple of weeks:

The compressor pulley from the 2nd Gen 2.9s has a different (wider) groove compared to the narrower V shaped fan pulley and balancer pulley. Also, my mechanic managed to install the compressor rotated about 45 degrees from how it should be installed, so the belt wasn't quite tight enough and I broke the cheap rock auto belt in like 5 days. I bought a new belt, tightened it some and its been working fine since. If I break another belt, then I'll remount the compressor to make sure it is lined up better. This can be done without removing any hoses, but the nuts that loosen the bracket so you can adjust the compressor tension are a PITA to figure out. It took me a while to figure out that I had to loosen TWO of the read bracket bolts. Specifically the two closes to the driver fender, don't bother with the one by the valve cover.
 

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