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87 4.9 300 won’t start


franklin2

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Get a helper. While you have your meter directly on the battery posts, have someone crank it over. If the voltage on the battery drops really low, it's no good. If it stays up rather high, then you have a problem somewhere else. While they are cranking look for smoke or feel for a hot connection on the large wires to the starter relay and the starter. Fat ground wire also.
 


franklin2

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You have the 2G alternator. They had problems with these catching fire, so they had a update on the remans and got rid of the plug that was causing the problems, and instead have a pigtail that you have to splice into. Those two wires with the yellow butt connectors are the output wires from the alternator, the ones that are redone with a reman alternator.

 

rusty ol ranger

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You know that slow start might be related to that ignition switch on the column
 

Mhfco6

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You have the 2G alternator. They had problems with these catching fire, so they had a update on the remans and got rid of the plug that was causing the problems, and instead have a pigtail that you have to splice into. Those two wires with the yellow butt connectors are the output wires from the alternator, the ones that are redone with a reman alternator.

So it looks to you like the fix has already been done?
 

Mhfco6

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You know that slow start might be related to that ignition switch on the column
This switch, or the key switch? Ever since I took the steering wheel off the spring release button has to be pushed in for the key to turn far enough to shut the truck off. Used to only have to use that to get the key out of the ignition.
 

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Mhfco6

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You know that slow start might be related to that ignition switch on the column
Ever since I removed the steering wheel the truck won’t turn off unless I hit the spring button to release them key.. used to only use it to release the key. Should I remove the cylinder and try to find tune its position?
 

Mhfco6

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Get a helper. While you have your meter directly on the battery posts, have someone crank it over. If the voltage on the battery drops really low, it's no good. If it stays up rather high, then you have a problem somewhere else. While they are cranking look for smoke or feel for a hot connection on the large wires to the starter relay and the starter. Fat ground wire also.
Furthest it dipped down to was 10.23. Starter lug gets really hot but that’s only on the long slow cranks. I feel like something has changed because it’s cranking good now. I don’t really know what else to check.
 
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franklin2

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So it looks to you like the fix has already been done?
Yes, someone has replaced the alternator at some time. That is why it's spliced in with butt connectors.
 

franklin2

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Ever since I removed the steering wheel the truck won’t turn off unless I hit the spring button to release them key.. used to only use it to release the key. Should I remove the cylinder and try to find tune its position?
That is just a nusiance. The ignition key will not cause slow cranking.
 

franklin2

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Furthest it dipped down to was 10.23. Starter lug gets really hot but that’s only on the long slow cranks. I feel like something has changed because it’s cranking good now. I don’t really know what else to check.
That heat is a suspect spot to check. Or the starter is suspect. But if it's cranking good now, what problems are left?
 

Mhfco6

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That heat is a suspect spot to check. Or the starter is suspect. But if it's cranking good now, what problems are left?
None I reckon, just need to grease the cylinder like suggested and gain some trust as long as it keeps cranking good.
 

rusty ol ranger

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That is just a nusiance. The ignition key will not cause slow cranking.
No but the ignition switch can. Or some issue with the engagement rod. Which is what im getting at.
 

franklin2

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If it gives problems again, like I said any hot spots are suspect. The connection to the battery is not getting hot. The connections on the starter relay are not getting hot. But the starter connection is. Keep and eye on that.


No but the ignition switch can. Or some issue with the engagement rod. Which is what im getting at.
We will have to agree to disagree on that one.
 

Mhfco6

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I swapped batteries with my 91 ranger which has about 200 less CA & CCA and is at least 4 years old. I started both trucks and let run for 45 mins and then shut them off. The ranger started back up but the f150 did not. I don’t think it’s a battery issue. Voltage drop through cables didn’t seem suspect to me.

I greased the key cylinder and helped with the spring back to accessory, thanks.
 

RonD

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You need to get a Volt Meter :)
 

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