87 4.9 300 won’t start

[RonD]

Good work

Thanks for updating the thread and THE FIX

 

[Mhfco6]

Thanks to you all for always helping. I did have to jump start the truck after new solenoid. I let the truck run for an hour, shut it off and wouldn’t start back. A new low whine noise coming from what sounds like the starter when the key is turned and very slow cranks. New power/ground cables aren’t terribly expensive and easy to replace. I’m gunna try a drop down test at the starter while cranking before I drop $ on a new starter.

For what it’s worth, the same solenoid that was smoking is now on my 91 ranger and that truck starts fine under its own power.

 

[rusty ol ranger]

Thanks to you all for always helping. I did have to jump start the truck after new solenoid. I let the truck run for an hour, shut it off and wouldn’t start back. A new low whine noise coming from what sounds like the starter when the key is turned and very slow cranks. New power/ground cables aren’t terribly expensive and easy to replace. I’m gunna try a drop down test at the starter while cranking before I drop $ on a new starter.

For what it’s worth, the same solenoid that was smoking is now on my 91 ranger and that truck starts fine under its own power.

Something is drawing ALOT of amps.

Either the starter isnt any good (most likely) or something is making the engine hard to spin over.

Edit...
I misread thought you replaced the cables. Yes start there lol

 

[Mhfco6]

Something is drawing ALOT of amps.

Either the starter isnt any good (most likely) or something is making the engine hard to spin over.

Edit...
I misread thought you replaced the cables. Yes start there lol

Haha thanks man. I started to do a drop down test and record some #s. Started at the battery and was 11.93, battery to solenoid when cranked was 9.83. Second attempt the truck started up fine. Any idea?

Edit: because it started I let it run for an hour and wouldn’t start back up. Here a video of that whining sound.. and the starter side of solenoid lug is really hot.

 

[RonD]

New battery reads 12.8-13.0volts, has 100% capacity
3 year old battery 12.5volts, 75% capacity
5/6 year old battery 12.3volts, 50% capacity, and time to shop for battery sales

12.2v or lower is a dying battery, may not hold a charge long and will not crank engine if temps drop below 32degF

Yes, if you crank engine with no spark for 5-10seconds you should see about 1.5 to 2volt drop in battery voltage, do test twice in a row

 

[Mhfco6]

New battery reads 12.8-13.0volts, has 100% capacity
3 year old battery 12.5volts, 75% capacity
5/6 year old battery 12.3volts, 50% capacity, and time to shop for battery sales

12.2v or lower is a dying battery, may not hold a charge long and will not crank engine if temps drop below 32degF

Yes, if you crank engine with no spark for 5-10seconds you should see about 1.5 to 2volt drop in battery voltage, do test twice in a row

This battery is about 1 year old but truck doesn’t get driven much. I’ll actually charge the battery and see if that makes a difference before blaming the starter.

 

[RonD]

Yes, I would also see if it holds a charge
After charging let it sit for a few hours(unhooked) then test voltage
Wait a few more hours and test again, should be exactly the same
If its going down it has an internal short, self draining, age doesn't matter

Just after charging with battery charger or alternator a battery will show a False higher voltage, takes a few hours for it to come down to its "normal volts"

Vehicles with engine computer and digital radio(with clock) draws about 0.03amps with key off doors closed, 30mA
Battery should be fine for over 45days, i.e. will start OK after 45days
If you unhook the battery it should last years

 

[Mhfco6]

Double post

 

[Mhfco6]

Yes, I would also see if it holds a charge
After charging let it sit for a few hours(unhooked) then test voltage
Wait a few more hours and test again, should be exactly the same
If its going down it has an internal short, self draining, age doesn't matter

Just after charging with battery charger or alternator a battery will show a False higher voltage, takes a few hours for it to come down to its "normal volts"

Vehicles with engine computer and digital radio(with clock) draws about 0.03amps with key off doors closed, 30mA
Battery should be fine for over 45days, i.e. will start OK after 45days
If you unhook the battery it should last years

I charged the battery last weekend and have been driving the truck around this past week. Still slow cranking and worried it would leave me stranded. Today I pulled the fuel relay and ran a voltage drop test.

Ambient Temp: 40 degrees outside

Battery: 12.15
Battery key on acc: 11.94
Battery during testing : 11.62

Battery + to solenoid post A: 12.15
Battery + to solenoid post B: .25/.29
Battery + to starter : .46/.60


Battery - to frame ground: .35/.40
Battery - to manifold ground: .6/.8
Battery - to starter bolt: 1.04

Battery is to weak after this test so pulled it and charging again now. Once charged I’m going to start the truck and check the alternator.

I drove 50 miles yesterday without a radio or heat because my key isn’t springing back all the way.. but I can manually pull it back where it should be and everything by works. I installed the ignition switch as far up the column as possible to allow the most spring force and resistance while turned the key.

 

[rusty ol ranger]

I charged the battery last weekend and have been driving the truck around this past week. Still slow cranking and worried it would leave me stranded. Today I pulled the fuel relay and ran a voltage drop test.

Ambient Temp: 40 degrees outside

Battery: 12.15
Battery key on acc: 11.94
Battery during testing : 11.62

Battery + to solenoid post A: 12.15
Battery + to solenoid post B: .25/.29
Battery + to starter : .46/.60


Battery - to frame ground: .35/.40
Battery - to manifold ground: .6/.8
Battery - to starter bolt: 1.04

Battery is to weak after this test so pulled it and charging again now. Once charged I’m going to start the truck and check the alternator.

I drove 50 miles yesterday without a radio or heat because my key isn’t springing back all the way.. but I can manually pull it back where it should be and everything by works. I installed the ignition switch as far up the column as possible to allow the most spring force and resistance while turned the key.

Inside the column the tumbler has a gear on the end, that connects to a set of teeth that pushes a rod when the key is turned to operate the ignition switch.

Take the wheel off and pop the tumbler out and lube the shaft.

 

[rusty ol ranger]

1987+ Ford F150 Ignition Switch Basics - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums

1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks - 1987+ Ford F150 Ignition Switch Basics - While this is a pictorial supplement to a couple recent threads, I am posting it as a separate thread for search engines to locate. The Ignition Switch Module is located on top of the steering column, down near...

www.ford-trucks.com

 

[Mhfco6]

Inside the column the tumbler has a gear on the end, that connects to a set of teeth that pushes a rod when the key is turned to operate the ignition switch.

Take the wheel off and pop the tumbler out and lube the shaft.

Will do, thanks!

 

[franklin2]

I charged the battery last weekend and have been driving the truck around this past week. Still slow cranking and worried it would leave me stranded. Today I pulled the fuel relay and ran a voltage drop test.

Ambient Temp: 40 degrees outside

Battery: 12.15
Battery key on acc: 11.94
Battery during testing : 11.62

Battery + to solenoid post A: 12.15
Battery + to solenoid post B: .25/.29
Battery + to starter : .46/.60


Battery - to frame ground: .35/.40
Battery - to manifold ground: .6/.8
Battery - to starter bolt: 1.04

Battery is to weak after this test so pulled it and charging again now. Once charged I’m going to start the truck and check the alternator.

I drove 50 miles yesterday without a radio or heat because my key isn’t springing back all the way.. but I can manually pull it back where it should be and everything by works. I installed the ignition switch as far up the column as possible to allow the most spring force and resistance while turned the key.

Battery voltages look low to me. I think it's on it's way out. But check the alternator. Just get the engine started and then check the battery voltage. If it's around 13.5-14.5 the alternator is charging.

 

[Mhfco6]

Battery voltages look low to me. I think it's on it's way out. But check the alternator. Just get the engine started and then check the battery voltage. If it's around 13.5-14.5 the alternator is charging.

Took the battery off charge this morning after 20 hours and it read 12.52. I let it sit for 2 hours and it read 12.50. I installed the battery in the truck and started it, slow crank again and battery was at 14.58. Checked battery again 20 minutes later while truck still ran and read 14.16. Turned the truck off and now it won’t start, very slow cranks and that whining noise that sounds like it’s coming from the starter. Battery reads 12.04.

 

[Mhfco6]

Found this mess under some electrical tape going to the alternator. Maybe someone added a new plug to the harness? Is there supposed to be an extra alternator ground on this metal tag? After cutting the bad section out and adding a length to the smaller white wire and 2 butt connectors the truck started up and with strong cranks! I let it run a while and cranked it back up but barely started.