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86 Turbo Thunderbird Motor in OBD2 Range -. HELP!


ShotnVA777

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Turning your truck into something similar to a Thunderbird or Foxbody is the OBD 1 swap I mentioned earlier. Do lots of reading over @ turborangerforum because others have documented what you want to do pretty well. They'd be the most experienced people to ask if you have questions.
Ill check em out, but I BELIEVE they haven't sent my Confirmation Email yet....

... I've been waiting for WEEKS!

Where did u speak of this??

I forgot to look for that book today. It got kinda nuts because we were over-scheduled today and Fridays are usually crazy anyway

I gotta go down and drop the oil-filter drums off after I go empty them tomorrow though, so I will try to remember then since nobody should be bugging me.
Haha... That'd be great! Thanks! I have a FAX # too if you'd like to do it THAT way...?

Just lemme know!
 


stmitch

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Ill check em out, but I BELIEVE they haven't sent my Confirmation Email yet....

... I've been waiting for WEEKS!

Where did u speak of this?
The confirmation email should be almost instantaneous. I'd double check that everything was processed correctly. You may have to reregister. You can still read and do research on the site if you're not a member, you just won't be able to post.

I mentioned the OBD1 swap in my first post in this thread. Post #3. It's not a plug and play thing. Engine parts have to be switched out. You need to have a VERY good understanding of the engine wiring and the truck wiring. It's probably going to cost almost as much as leaving your truck OBD2, and just buying a tuner, but it will be a lot more work for something that will end up having less capability and room for growth.
 
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ShotnVA777

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The confirmation email should be almost instantaneous. I'd double check that everything was processed correctly. You may have to reregister. You can still read and do research on the site if you're not a member, you just won't be able to post.

I mentioned the OBD1 swap in my first post in this thread. Post #3. It's not a plug and play thing. Engine parts have to be switched out. You need to have a VERY good understanding of the engine wiring and the truck wiring. It's probably going to cost almost as much as leaving your truck OBD2, and just buying a tuner, but it will be a lot more work for something that will end up having less capability and room for growth.
I've checked EVERYDAY! I have my password they sent me but its not "authorized" yet or something?!

Gotcha... I can build a truck with OBD1, its so possible it makes NO SENSE! With just STOCK, "junkyard parts", but no one can tell me how. This is great! Lmao!

Everyone says, "keep that OBD2 because u can tune the ish out of it later bro!!"

I DON'T WANT OBD2, I would like to keep the motor as stock as possible and NOT get a tube, just use my STOCK T-Bird ECU! THAT'S IT!

CAN ANYONE STEP BY STEP, TELL ME HOW THIS IS SUPPOSED TO BE DONE OR SEND ME A LINK TO HOW TO DO IT??!?! PLEASE!!!


NOW, with that said.... Everyone's entitled to an opinion! I'm NOT LOOKING FOR OPINIONS THOUGH, I'm looking for INSTRUCTIONS. Period.

(Sorry, this is getting OVERLY frustrating not getting a REAL answer and a bunch of "this is how u should do it's". I'm not asking that, yet again. Just trying to figure out how to do this MY WAY - which HAS been done, but NO ONE will "give up the secret"!

WTF!!! Lol :dunno:
 

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Like I said before, install the motor & engine harness, hook up the necessary wires (power, ignition turn on, ground, fuel pump relay) via the 42 pin connector above the ranger motor, done. You will need schematics for the tbird engine harness and the ranger engine harness so you know which wires to attach to what...

SVT
 

ShotnVA777

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Like I said before, install the motor & engine harness, hook up the necessary wires (power, ignition turn on, ground, fuel pump relay) via the 42 pin connector above the ranger motor, done. You will need schematics for the tbird engine harness and the ranger engine harness so you know which wires to attach to what...

SVT
So I leave the 42 pin connector on the firewall, right on the passenger side. Is there a unit I need to take OUT? I thought that was my ECU.

Or do I JUST need the wires that are there (aka unplug it) and splice in??

The way it sounds... I keep BOTH ecu's in! IF that plug is INDEED my ECU.
 

stmitch

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I'm not trying to be rude, or frustrate you. The reason nobody can directly answer your question is because you have a fairly uncommon request. Most people in your situation choose to stay OBD2, or run a stand- alone ECM like MegaSquirt. I'm not trying to tell you you have to do it a certain way, but there are reasons why so very few people do it the way you want.

I found several threads that you will probably find helpful just by googling "2.3t OBD2 Ranger". You can also google differences between PCM connectors and the 42 pin because they're very different. Google is your friend.
 
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Ok, here we go. Assuming you have a complete engine bay harness this will be easier than it sounds.

Unplug your existing PCM. Then get your t-bird engine in, harness in, laid out, and connected to the engine.

Now find the PCM power relay and the fuel pump relay (your buddy should be able to ID those parts).

At the PCM relay hook the black and orange wire to the battery. At the fuel pump relay hook the yellow wire to the battery. Make sure you retain the fuse-links or install fuses so you don't burn stuff up if there is a problem.


Next at the PCM power relay there is a red and green wire. It needs to be connected to the start/run output of the ignition switch. There are a few places this connection can be made, and where you do it is really all about what is easier.

The wire you need for start/run power is green and pink at the switch, runs through fuse 19 of the interior fuse block, turns red and green after the fuse block, the red/green section runs into the fuse block under the hood, then to the PCM power diode (only diode in the block, little black guy, looks like a fuse, as a symbol kinda like this -->-- on it). Coming out of the battery junction box it turns tan and black and goes to the 97's PCM relay, which is also in the fuse block under the hood (aka BJB). Find this circuit at any point along it's path and hook that red/green wire on the 86 harness to it.

Then find the pink and black wire running to the fuel pump, it can be traced out of the inertia switch in the cab. Hook it to the pink and black wire coming from the 86's fuel pump relay.


Make all those connections correctly, as I described them, touch no other wiring on the 97, and it should start and run. I realize this will greatly clutter then engine bay having two wiring harnesses laid on top of one another, but it will get her rolling. You and your friend can go through and clean things up once you are sure she is running.
 

ShotnVA777

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I'm not trying to be rude, or frustrate you. The reason nobody can directly answer your question is becau you have a fairly uncommon request. Most people in your situation choose to stay OBD2, or run a stand- alone ECM like MegaSquirt. I'm not trying to tell you you have to do it a certain way, but there are reasons why so very few people do it the way you want.

I found several threads that you will probably find helpful just by googling "2.3t OBD2 Ranger". You can also google differences between PCM connectors and the 42 pin because they're very different. Google is your friend.
Ok, here we go. Assuming you have a complete engine bay harness this will be easier than it sounds.

Unplug your existing PCM. Then get your t-bird engine in, harness in, laid out, and connected to the engine.

Now find the PCM power relay and the fuel pump relay (your buddy should be able to ID those parts).

At the PCM relay hook the black and orange wire to the battery. At the fuel pump relay hook the yellow wire to the battery. Make sure you retain the fuse-links or install fuses so you don't burn stuff up if there is a problem.


Next at the PCM power relay there is a red and green wire. It needs to be connected to the start/run output of the ignition switch. There are a few places this connection can be made, and where you do it is really all about what is easier.

The wire you need for start/run power is green and pink at the switch, runs through fuse 19 of the interior fuse block, turns red and green after the fuse block, the red/green section runs into the fuse block under the hood, then to the PCM power diode (only diode in the block, little black guy, looks like a fuse, as a symbol kinda like this -->-- on it). Coming out of the battery junction box it turns tan and black and goes to the 97's PCM relay, which is also in the fuse block under the hood (aka BJB). Find this circuit at any point along it's path and hook that red/green wire on the 86 harness to it.

Then find the pink and black wire running to the fuel pump, it can be traced out of the inertia switch in the cab. Hook it to the pink and black wire coming from the 86's fuel pump relay.


Make all those connections correctly, as I described them, touch no other wiring on the 97, and it should start and run. I realize this will greatly clutter then engine bay having two wiring harnesses laid on top of one another, but it will get her rolling. You and your friend can go through and clean things up once you are sure she is running.
Absolutely PERFECT! Thank you SO MUCH!!! :icon_hornsup:

I'M PRAYING THIS IS ALL THAT NEEDS TO BE DONE! AS I'LL BE DONE WITH THE REBUILD VERY SOON! :yahoo:

Yes, your right... Once I get it RUNNING, then things can be cleaned up, tucked, hidden, etc!

I just forwarded this to my guy and I'm waiting on a reply. Sounds about like what everyone was saying!

Now, I just gotta find the wiring diagrams! (Even though you seem pretty confident in the wire colors! I think!? Haha...! :icon_cheers:
 

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ShotnVA777

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Found the mustang diagrams here:
http://www.gearheadtalk.com/forums/showthread.php?31149-1984-SVO-injector-positive-side-wiring-diagram

The 97 Ranger colors I got from the 97 Ranger wiring diagrams from Ford. I can access 92 and newer online through Ford. Can't post links though, the site is password protected and pretty hard to navigate.
What should I be LOOKING for as far as the 97 ranger Diagram? Im not good coming up with "searching terms" lol.... :icon_confused:

This is GREAT! THANKS A TON FOR THE DIAGRAM! THAT WON'T DIFFER FROM A 1987 TURBO COUPE LA3 ECU THOUGH? AS THAT'S AN 86 AND NOT SURE WHAT ECU EXACTLY?

Also, I'm assuming your directions are FOR an LA3 ECU? Or all the colors, etc. the same on ALL turbo ECUs??

Thanks!
 

ShotnVA777

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Hey. .. what year ranger did u wire this to? Are the colors ANY different from yr to yr???
 

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What should I be LOOKING for as far as the 97 ranger Diagram? Im not good coming up with "searching terms" lol.... :icon_confused:

This is GREAT! THANKS A TON FOR THE DIAGRAM! THAT WON'T DIFFER FROM A 1987 TURBO COUPE LA3 ECU THOUGH? AS THAT'S AN 86 AND NOT SURE WHAT ECU EXACTLY?

Also, I'm assuming your directions are FOR an LA3 ECU? Or all the colors, etc. the same on ALL turbo ECUs??

Thanks!
I went off an 84 Mustang SVO diagram, but For does a really good job of keeping wire colors the same across same engines in different models. The computer you are using as zero effect on this. They don't have a different diagram for each different PCM. Also, those numbers on the computer really just indicate software revisions in the 80s.

Hey. .. what year ranger did u wire this to? Are the colors ANY different from yr to yr???
I used a 97 Ranger wiring diagram for the Ranger side. I can copy the pages of the 97 EVTM into Paint and then post them up via photobucket later.
 

ShotnVA777

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I went off an 84 Mustang SVO diagram, but For does a really good job of keeping wire colors the same across same engines in different models. The computer you are using as zero effect on this. They don't have a different diagram for each different PCM. Also, those numbers on the computer really just indicate software revisions in the 80s.
GREAT! SO THAT SHOULDN'T BE A PROBLEM!

I used a 97 Ranger wiring diagram for the Ranger side. I can copy the pages of the 97 EVTM into Paint and then post them up via photobucket later.
NOW THIS... IS EVEN GREATER! :D AS I AM PUTTING THE TURBO MOTOR INTO A 1997 RANGER, 2.3L, 2WD!!

THAT SAID. IF YOU CAN SEND ME THAT DIAGRAM/SCHEMATIC, THAT WOULD BE AWESOME! SOONER THE BETTER, I'M ABOUT READY TO DROP HER IN

ALSO, THANK YOU (A TON!!!) FOR THE DETAILED INSTRUCTIONS AND INFORMATION THAT I NEEDED! KEEP IT COMING BRO... HAHA!
:yahoo: :icon_cheers:
 
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ShotnVA777

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here we go. Assuming you have a complete engine bay harness this will be easier than it sounds.

Unplug your existing PCM. Then get your t-bird engine in, harness in, laid out, and connected to the engine.
I have a complete harness, for both the 97 8 Plug AND the 87 Turbo!

I have a question about the "unplugging of the stock 97 PCM" though! (which is on the upper, passenger side... On the engine's side of the firewall - correct?)

DO I PLUG THIS BACK IN, THE ENTIRE HARNESS?! Like, after the connections are ALL made in the rest of your instructions??? Or does this just "dangle" and I can essentially remove the stock PCM?? ORRRRR, do I just need to have SOME of the wires, the ones NEEDED, connected to the plug (aka, cut some stuff out/tap new harness in)???

This is the ONLY part that I was kind of confused on, which is weIrd, because im usually GOOD with "wiring"!

How come when I FIRST posted it, ppl acted like I was INSANE for even ASKING about "running two ECU's" and now thats what I am doing!?!? Lol!
 
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adsm08

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You are insane for asking about running to computers, but that is beside the point. Take care not to read too much into anything I have told you to do, and to read nothing into what I haven't told you to do. I have not told you to remove any of the old system yet, but that doesn't mean it will be used.

You are running a manual trans right? That means the only thing the PCM is doing is controlling the engine. You don't need the 97 computer to run the Turbo-coupe engine, it has it's own computer for that, which is what you need to use. You unplug the 97 computer and leave it unplugged. I don't want it deciding to try and do something and end up interfering.

Also, I guess I should point out that most of the gauges, the tach, oil pressure, engine temp, etc won't work with this wiring. Those need to be connected separately, but they aren't needed just to run the engine. Fuel gauge should keep working though.

Eventually, as you get things figured out, you should be able to remove most of the 97 harness, but right now we are only trying to make the OBDI system start and run the engine.

If you take care to not hack the wiring up too much it should be easy to put the original system back in place if something goes catastrophically wrong and you need to put the original engine back in, or if you get bit by the tuning bug and decide you want to reinstate the OBDII system at some point in the future.

Here are the 97 Diagrams.

Follow H


H goes to E


E ultimately leads back to the ignition switch.


That's the line you need to tap to power up your engine control systems of the 86 PCM relay.

This one just show power flow to the fuel pump.
 
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