86 Thunderbird 2.3T in 95 Ranger.

[95_Blue_Splash]

Hello all, long time lurker, first time account owner and poster. buckle up, I'm a noob to Lima turbo and I have a few questions not available online (at least not available to me in the last 3 months of research)
I am the owner of a 95 2.3 manual ranger whom is about to acquire an 86 Thunderbird 2.3T manual. complete bumper to bumper.
I think you see where this is headed....
my plan is to get the OBD1 motor and ECU to properly run and function to factory standard in an OBD2 truck. I know this is not Ideal and frowned upon by some people to go this route but this is a daily driver. I'm young and I plan on keeping this truck forever. period. so anything down now is almost certainly going to be cleaned up and or upgraded in the future.
I don't want to come off as arrogant but I am not going to use a standalone. I don't have the funds right now, its simply not viable at the moment. when I eventually want more boost I understand I'll have to dish out the big bucks for the standalone ECU and harness for tuning purposes.
I know its expensive, hence why I want it to function to factory standard at first.

Anyway, my question is; EXACTLY what needs to be done on the wiring side of this swap? down to the tiniest details, this is how I imagine it:
use 86 tbird ecu and engine harness, ranger charging and starting wiring, tbird harness stripped to the basics, and the 12v power, ground, and all dash sensors run through 42 pin connector.... is that it? turn key and go?
if this is the case I'll need the wiring diagrams for both the ranger 42 pin connector, and the entirety of the tbird engine harness.
I haven't picked the car up yet but hopefully it will be in my possession within the next few weeks. I want to try to have as much info as I can before I swap so I can get it done alone in a timely matter ( like a weekend)

TLDR: need precise wiring info on an obd1 2.3t in an obd2 Ranger, and how to retain factory gauges.

hopefully someone who has done the same or similar can chime in to help a young grasshopper. TIA

 

[2011Supercab]

You are going to want something like these

1986 Ford Thunderbird Mercury Cougar EVTM Wiring Manual Electrical Vacuum | eBay

Manual shows normal wear, overall very good condition for age. However, the general condition of the item will be as described.

www.ebay.com

1995 Ford Ranger Electrical Vacuum Troubleshooting Diagnostics Manual OEM | eBay

<p>1995 Ford Ranger Electrical Vacuum Troubleshooting Diagnostics Manual OEM. Some scuffs and one wrinkle on front cover.See Pictures for Condition.</p>

www.ebay.com

 

[95_Blue_Splash]

You are going to want something like these

1986 Ford Thunderbird Mercury Cougar EVTM Wiring Manual Electrical Vacuum | eBay

Manual shows normal wear, overall very good condition for age. However, the general condition of the item will be as described.

www.ebay.com

1995 Ford Ranger Electrical Vacuum Troubleshooting Diagnostics Manual OEM | eBay

<p>1995 Ford Ranger Electrical Vacuum Troubleshooting Diagnostics Manual OEM. Some scuffs and one wrinkle on front cover.See Pictures for Condition.</p>

www.ebay.com

That’s about what I’ve figured. I’m gonna see if I can’t order them at work today. You wouldn’t happen to know if my thoughts on the wiring are correct?

 

[scotts90ranger]

I think you have about the jist of it, I'd probably do it differently but I get ya, I was young and dumb when I did mine on my daily driver and it took a while to get done even though I thought I had it figured out... started thanksgiving and finished newyears... I would keep as much of the stock Ranger stuff as you can, later on you might want to build up the Ranger engine with the turbo pistons and get a standalone ECM, I regret getting rid of the Ranger engine from mine...

 

[95_Blue_Splash]

I think you have about the jist of it, I'd probably do it differently but I get ya, I was young and dumb when I did mine on my daily driver and it took a while to get done even though I thought I had it figured out... started thanksgiving and finished newyears... I would keep as much of the stock Ranger stuff as you can, later on you might want to build up the Ranger engine with the turbo pistons and get a standalone ECM, I regret getting rid of the Ranger engine from mine...

definitely will keep the ranger stuff. Plan on storing it properly for future use.
You wouldn’t happen to know the wiring aspect of what I’m gonna do would you?
as far as re pinning the 42pin body harness to
Get the obd1 tc motor to work?
I actually found a bunch of your old posts last night and read as much as I could lol.
The only thing I really need is pinouts for the ranger 42 pin and the 86 tc engine wiring.
Because, how I’m thinking of it anyway, I can keep the ranger charging and starting system, and most of that is pretty simple, and then figure out the 42 pinner. I understand the concept, but don’t know what to do.
is there any kind of pinout/diagram/forum anything that comes even close to the 86 in a 95? Sorry if I’m confusing you. Tia

 

[bobbywalter]

the reason i would suggest stand alone specifically has to do with the likelihood of unsolvable problems with this ancient system...

it may be the very reason the car ended up the donor.

if it was 1995.....hell even 2005 or 2010 reliability was less of an issue.

of course the fact they ran as good as they did with that archaic bullshit and for as long as they did itself is a miracle....so recognize you are pushing it.


your truck being obd2 is merely a formality. it too is archaic in this semblance.


first thing get it running right

you get it running right as is then swapping it is a cakewalk from there in terms of wiring.

 

[bobbywalter]

in the case that you get it running correctly....i would have you leave all of your wiring in the truck as is.


then we will show you how to stand alone the t bird eec and install it.


it is that simple

 

[scotts90ranger]

of course the fact they ran as good as they did with that archaic bullshit and for as long as they did itself is a miracle....so recognize you are pushing it.

That is the main reason I haven't screwed with my Ranger... other than the IAC being cranky right now and stalling randomly and the starter relay acting up at the same time I have no complaints, every now and then in the woods at say 3000' elevation when it's near freezing it'll start flashing the CEL randomly while driving but it hasn't had codes when I've checked... if it ran worse I'd probably go with aftermarket management, heck I'm even thinking of rebuilding the random turbo I'm running...

 

[95_Blue_Splash]

thank you guys this is good stuff I really appreciate it. I'm going to pick the car up next Wednesday and plan on immediately checking it all out to make sure I didn't buy a dud. I will keep both of you posted!

 

[95_Blue_Splash]

Alright, change of plans...
got the car home yesterday, its an 85.5 thunderbird. motor spins and needs cleaned up bad. However, the wiring is hacked all to s***. every line and accessory is rusted.
long story short, I have decided to just put the pistons and rods into my 95 dual plug Lima and just boost it that way. a guy is selling me an FLH2, quarter horse, 42#/hr injectors and a licensed tuner. for 600.
I'm going to buy some cheap intercooler kit, some rod bearings, gaskets top to bottom, new oil and water lines and fittings and send it on its way.
I'm going to try to have every last piece that I need before I pull my motor to rebuild it as id like to start at 6am and have it finished that evening.. lol
I will keep you both updated and ask questions as I go along
I'll drop some pics below

 

[95_Blue_Splash]

Here’s how it sits

 

[scotts90ranger]

That sounds like a better plan... Look at the casting number on the exhaust manifold, if it starts with E6 that's the good one, less prone to crack... The good things about N/A blocks is they don't make enough cylinder pressure to really taper the cylinders as bad as a turbo block...

You'll need to drill/tap your block or oil pan for the turbo oil drain back tube but that's the only block modification...

 

[95_Blue_Splash]

That sounds like a better plan... Look at the casting number on the exhaust manifold, if it starts with E6 that's the good one, less prone to crack... The good things about N/A blocks is they don't make enough cylinder pressure to really taper the cylinders as bad as a turbo block...

You'll need to drill/tap your block or oil pan for the turbo oil drain back tube but that's the only block modification...

sweet, its definitely not cheap this way and I'm already feeling buyers guilt before buying anything lol. but I know future me will be grateful. and it will be way more enjoyable and easier to work out kinks.

would you try and keep the factory oil cooler? or is does in not benefit the motor enough to validate the time and energy on making it work?

I Plan on keeping the M5od in it FOR NOW. you think a new stock ranger clutch would take 14lbs?

hopefully I can get the funds together and the ball rolling soon. deadline is new year but want it done by the end of the month.

keep in touch

 

[scotts90ranger]

The M5OD is fine, that's what I'm running, I just rebuilt it again but I think I got a bum bearing last time as it was a really odd failure...

The stock clutch will last for a while (last time I ran one it lasted 15k miles but that was with offroading with 4.10 gears and 31" tires which changes things a LOT), doesn't take a lot of abuse but if you look for posts by me mentioning Centerforce there's a couple part numbers of the two parts for their stock replacement friction disc and weighted pressure plate which is a really nice driving combo... It's around $300 for the parts through Summit...

For the oil cooler, I think I'm still running one, it doesn't really hurt anything but not sure how much it helps either... it's easy enough to run, just goes into a heater line and an FL1A filter still fits without hitting the framerail.

 

[95_Blue_Splash]

Sweet. Sounds good to me. Once I get everything together I’ll start tearing both motors down. That should be all I need to know for now anyway.
I’ll keep this thread updated until it’s running and daily driving.
If ya need me I’ll holler, lol.
Thank you again for your help