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86 2.0 duraspark/asian carb question


RangerDange

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Mark88 thanks for the advise, I didn't think about the fact that even a different pump off say a pinto would still be too much pressure. So I'm just gonna buy a regulator.

I have worked on plenty of motorcycle and small engine carbs, never a weber. I did find a great tuning guide online and a couple youtube videos on rebuilds. I feel confident I'll be able to get it running and tuned properly but, as we all know, sh**t happens, just hopefully not this time.
 


tomw

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You may insist on buying a regulator, for a pump that was used in 100,000+ engines along with a Holley/Weber similar to what you are going to install, but you are likely wasting money and time. The factory fuel pump delivered fuel at a pressure the H/W liked and could live with for tens of thousands of miles with no trouble. It did not have a separate regulator built in. The pressure developed by a mechanical diaphragm type fuel pump depends on the strength of the spring that pushes on the diaphragm. The spring tension can be changed from the factory, or by disassembling the pump in older models. The lever 'lifts' the diaphragm to cause low pressure, and pull fuel from the tank into the chamber on the other side of the diaphragm. The spring pushes on the other side, and tries to force the fuel out the outlet. Spring tension will keep pushing on the diaphragm even if the fuel on the other side has not been consumed. Only after some has gone on to fuel heaven, does the diaphragm move again when the lever pulls, as it can't move unless fuel is gone.(liquids do not compress with any measurability)
The only thing providing pressure to the fuel inlet on the float bowl is the spring tension. Pinto fuel pumps came with low tension springs from the factory, and worked with Holley/Webers also installed at the factory.
Mustang II also had exactly the same setup.
The one barrel carb installed on Rangers about 10 years on was selected as a low cost alternative to the Holley 2-bbl setup. I do not believe the emissions system was designed solely for the Ranger, as similar carbs were used on cars of the same vintage, and it was a cost effective measure to meed the 49-state emissions requirements without spending more development dollars. I do not think any Holley/Weber emissions package was ever developed to meet emissions standards in the 1980's, thus the one barrel.
If you want to be sure you are not going to 'overpressure' your float, buy an in-line fuel pressure gauge and install it. You can watch to see what pressure is developed, and can install it permanently near the carb fuel inlet so you can check at your whim.
Or you can buy a lawn mower electric pump that would develop about the pressure you need. Just don't have a wreck unless you have a rollover/impact switch to cut power if needed.
tom
 

Mark_88

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Good point about the roll over Tom...I never actually thought about that when I put mine in and I didn't put a kill switch on the circuit...I'm sure with a bit of engine-u-ity an intertia switch could be worked into the wiring on an electric pump...if one happens to have one sitting around.

I'm with you on the regulator not being needed...but if he wants one I'm sure it won't be too hard to work in either...just added cost.

I bought a vacuum tester from Princess Auto and it doubles as a fuel pressure tester...just not suitable for installation purposes. If you want to test the output of a pump it is a cheap way to go...and having a vac tester around is a good idea with a carbed engine...or any engine for that matter.
 
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RangerDange

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Hey guys just a quick update for you and some questions. I finally got my motor and trans installed and she fired right up:yahoo: I still have a few small things to finish up.

I have to remove most of the wiring because its no longer needed, not a big deal. I also have to get the hydraulic line for the clutch connected and bled out. I need to fabricate the rest of the exhaust because I'm running open header right now. I also have to finish hooking up my pcv system.

I decided not to use a fuel pressure reg and the truck seems to run fine without it so ill rock on without it unless I notice issues later. I was also able to get the carb tuned according to webers specs so doesn't look like ill need to rejet, woot woot.

Now here is where I could really use some input. First of all I set base timing to 0 degrees with vacuum advance plugged up. Is that where it should be set to? Also, I cant for the life of me figure out what size the set screw is that holds the hydraulic line onto the slave cylinder:icon_confused: I deleted so many things in order to clean up the engine bay that I have a very large pile of unused fasteners. I picked out all the small ones but none seem to thread into the slave so I'm thinking I misplaced it. I really don't want to pull the trans again in order to figure out what screw to use. I really hope someone here knows.

Ill post final pictures after i get these last few issues sorted out. On a positive note after sitting for a week and running for a few hrs I have no oil leaks!! Keep in mind she use to dump half a qt a week just sitting and a full qt if she was getting driven too. So i'm thrilled with that because you may remember that's kinda how this project started. Although I feel like it gradually turned into much more than that lol.
 

Mark_88

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Good to hear your update and looks like it's almost under control...:icon_thumby:

Base timing should be set to 6 or 8 degrees Before TDC (BTDC) from what I recall and that is with the vacuum advance off the distributor. I can't remember exactly but it is either of those two. When you plug the vacuum line back in after setting it and put a timing light it jumps to around 30* BTDC.

As for the screw that holds the line to the slave...I don't recall that on my truck. Mine was using the quick disconnect (which wasn't so quick at times) so I really don't have a clue. Maybe take a pic of that if you can unless someone is familiar with that setup and can answer off the top of their head.

Was there no coupling on this combination??? Oh, wait...this might be the Tokyo-Kogo or whatever it was before the M5OD (which I recommend over the older styles)...

Come to Canada and you can have mine...it has 320,000 on the clock but that is just getting warmed up for the long haul...:) my last one had 450,000 and still shifted as smooth as the day I got it...
 
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RangerDange

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So I wasn't able to find what ever screw or pin holds the line onto the slave cylinder so I'm going to pull the trans and replace it, which I should have done in the first place. It is a Tokyo-Kogo mark so no quick connection. Do you know if I can use a slave with that quick disconnect fitting? That might be useful when future projects come up. And I will take you up on that offer if I'm ever in Canada.:icon_thumby:
 

RangerDange

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Ok guys this will probably be my last update on this thread. I'll probably start a new thread for further updates under a better title. Any way, I found the pin for the slave cylinder. Actually, I just found a random one laying around that worked great. So I guess I was wrong about it being a screw. Here is what it looks like now.

I still need to clean up the wiring and figure out how to do away with the evaporator and surrounding box. I was able to get the truck running well but some ignition upgrades are in the future. More on that later.

At first glance everything seemed ok but after driving to work a few times (roughly 20 miles each way) I realized Its leaking quite a bit of oil on the driver side. It seems to only be leaking when I'm driving. When the truck is just sitting or even when I run it in neutral it doesn't seem to leak. It appears to me to be coming from the oil dipstick tube, where it goes into the block. I pulled it out and tried a dab of RTV but it's still leaking. I may reapply a more generous coat this weekend when it has time to fully cure.

I also got a chance to inspect the ignition system and wiring more closely in an attempt to clean everything up. I found most of the connectors have corroded and bare wire and some are missing the insulation completely :icon_surprised: After this discovery I decided to hold off on wrapping up the harness until I address the issue. My solution is an MSD 6A ignition box and blaster coil (arriving tomorrow) with all new wiring.

So here is a picture of the header after about 100 miles. Its been smoking like crazy burning off the shipping paint. Also I deleted the factory heater pipes and mess of hoses and opted for two directs hoses. you can also see a couple bare wires I wrapped in electrical tape for now.


In this pic you can see the wire traced out in yellow is completely bare. It runs from the distributor to the ignition box. Also, in green you can see where some oil built up on the driver side mount and also it's spraying onto the steering shaft.


You can also see where oil is pooling up below the dipstick.


Other than the oil leak and crappy wiring all else seems ok. If anyone has advise on either of these issues I'm open ears.
 

Mark_88

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Looks great! Reminds me of when I first set mine up with the shorty header and new carb...I had people flocking around to gawk at my awesome engine...a couple anyways...

Two things...the oil leak could be dipstick or oil canister (just ahead of the dipstick that should feed into the base of the carb) and pcv vent hose...or it could be a leak from the valve cover as they are notorious for leaks if you don't get the gasket just right.

Run a clean rag or paper towel around the base of the VC and see if it is picking up any oil...if it is...could be VC gasket.

The oil loss while driving is normal when first starting them up if you haven't tightened things down...or it may be blow-by.

2. Did you hook up the PCV? This would help relieve bottom end pressure and vent the engine when needed.

Oh, and is that header pipe close to the frame rail? These engines can rock a bit under some conditions and the pipe might beat a dent into itself if that comes up...usually on "engine run on" or if the timing/firing order gets out of whack...

But otherwise they run pretty smooth...

Again...nice!
 

RangerDange

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I have a hose running from that crankcase breather canister up into the base of the air cleaner. No PCV hooked up. I'll double check the canister and valve cover, thanks for the tip. Do they tend to leak if there over tightened? Also funny you mention the header because it does rattle against the frame rail during warm ups with no choke. I figure ill let it be until I have to replace it with a better fitting header
 

Mark_88

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Over tightening the VC can be just as bad as leaving it too loose. Depends on the gasket though. I think the bolts only thread so far into the head before bottoming out but I can't remember...leaves enough for gasket and a bit.

These bolts go by In/pounds torque as opposed to Foot/pounds so it can be over torqued.

The header might be OK after it knocks itself in...as opposed to out...:)

I remember mine was pretty close but the problem I had was the throttle mount would hit the brake booster...had so adjust and modify it inward to clear the booster enough for a bit of rough idle.
 

RangerDange

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I used a felpro cork gasket and rtv. I know I had a hard time getting everything aligned. Maybe the gasket slipped out of place. Definitely worth checking. I also probably over tightened them...ooops.
I'm very happy with it over all. Biggest difference is on the interstate. I can actually keep up with traffic and I don't have to constantly down shift on every hill.
 

Mark_88

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Oh, yeah...that is where I noticed my cam upgrade and new carb too.

It would actually accelerate with very little hesitation and I was starting to feel like a fish in a big school of other fish instead of a jellyfish in the way of the others...or something like that...:)

Always worth the extra money when it all works as planned...

Keep an eye on the heat and make sure the cooling system is in top shape...a slight overheat was what killed that $600 head upgrade that I did...really broke my wallet...and a bit of a break in my heart too...but it was a lesson learned...:icon_thumby:
 

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