'85 Ranger Restomod

[Uncle Gump]

I just think the equalizer has to move to pull the stationary cable. Looks as though the driver cable as you have it currently won't allow the equalizer to move and pull the passenger cable.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

So the passenger cable won't fit into the equalizer and the driver cable into the frame bracket?

No, PS cable has the end with the clip that locks into the frame bracket and has a barrel to go into the equalizer. DS has a weird boss that goes into the equalizer.

If I flip the cables around I think it would do the same thing.

I am going off of adsm's post in this thread:

31 spline 8.8 - do all disc brakes have an "internal" parking brake?

All, I recently deviated from Rangers and bought a CJ7 to tinker with. The PO installed an 8.8 from an explorer. He welded the tubes and had Mitchell Differential build new axle shafts with a 5x5.5 bolt pattern to match the D44 in the front. The axle has rotors drilled for this and I believe...

www.therangerstation.com

EDIT: He said longer one... maybe I do need to try to flip them. PS is longer overall but DS is longer on that side of the truck I think though.

 

[adsm08]

They can only go one way though?

@adsm08 what say ye? This is all your idea...

Looks a lot like my setup. Mine works when I remember to not drive away with it set and burn up the shoes.

Your upper bracket is in the wrong spot though.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Looks a lot like my setup. Mine works when I remember to not drive away with it set and burn up the shoes.

Your upper bracket is in the wrong spot though.

Nice, my parts truck (also std cab longbox) is the same as mine. It is still kinda sorta close...

Anyway as I suspected I have more problems than cables:



And that ain't dirt from Iowa...



After a lot of working it I got it freed up so it moves easy.



Passenger side is stuck tighter than tight, so that is my next project.



It kinda peeves me, I remember it was a major beyond major PITA to put the shoes on.

 

[ericbphoto]

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

View attachment 39450

And as far as I can tell to do this right I should drop the oil out of it, take apart the L/S and pull the axles out of it so I can actually remove the little hinged bits that seize and sandblast them. They don't seem to be able to come out with the axle flange in place...

 

[adsm08]

And as far as I can tell to do this right I should drop the oil out of it, take apart the L/S and pull the axles out of it so I can actually remove the little hinged bits that seize and sandblast them. They don't seem to be able to come out with the axle flange in place...

You are doing it backwards, and putting way too much effort into a repair that won't hold up long term.

If you undo that top spring, pull the shoes out over the actuator toward the wheel hub, and then pull the actuator inboard.

Last time I priced one (been 10 years or so) they were only $20 a side.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

You are doing it backwards, and putting way too much effort into a repair that won't hold up long term.

If you undo that top spring, pull the shoes out over the actuator toward the wheel hub, and then pull the actuator inboard.

Last time I priced one (been 10 years or so) they were only $20 a side.

Interesting, I never got the impression they would fit thru the slot in the backing plate (especially when it is frozen) although I never tried it. I got the one broke loose on the truck, it is fingertip loose right now.

All I have to go of for this style of brake is the Chilton's for my F-150 and it is basically worthless.

Parts store wants $50 for the kit, Amazon has it for $27 (Dorman 924741)

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

I "fixed" the parking brake pedal. I realized that you have to push it down so far and it just locks, it doesn't ratchet like my F-150's... yeah I have used it that much over the years.

I just think the equalizer has to move to pull the stationary cable. Looks as though the driver cable as you have it currently won't allow the equalizer to move and pull the passenger cable.

I think you are right, I did try to reverse them and having no luck. This is close as it would go to switching them, the round boss is too big to go into the equalizer.



So I reversed them back to see if it would work better with everything freed up.

I got one actuator broke loose on the truck, I could hold it against the backing plate with a pry bar and beat it one way with a hammer and then pinch it shut with channel locks and repeat. I got it really loose.



Passenger side was stuck tighter than tight, it would not flinch. I fiddled with it and somehow I got it worked out of there. Then I took it to the vice and with a little hammer time it was loose too. Then I sneaked them to work and hit them with the bead blaster:





Good to go now, everything moves nicely. Not sure why I struggled so much 8 years ago, they were not that bad to assemble this time.



DS works great:



PS... not so much...



DS is fiddlestring tight, PS is flopping in the wind yet:



Then I have the genius idea to go check my F-150, it has a similar parking brake design (I got the equalizer from a truck similar to it actually) The cables are made differently but the cables are reversed from what I am trying to do.



So I think I need to get the file out and make the PS cable boss fit in the equalizer.

 

[Uncle Gump]

Yeah... those pictures were making my head spin a bit. I think that the picture of your 150 defines exactly what I was trying to say. It kinda looks as if they got the ends of your new cables reversed... or they don't belong on a Ranger... lol.

I see the driver cable doesn't have the spring clip on the end... does it have a grove for a c clip maybe?

You may have to modify your bracket a bit (similar to your 150) to keep the pass cable from flopping around and to secure the driver cable into it.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Yeah... those pictures were making my head spin a bit. I think that the picture of your 150 defines exactly what I was trying to say. It kinda looks as if they got the ends of your new cables reversed... or they don't belong on a Ranger... lol.

I see the driver cable doesn't have the spring clip on the end... does it have a grove for a c clip maybe?

You may have to modify your bracket a bit (similar to your 150) to keep the pass cable from flopping around and to secure the driver cable into it.

I really don't know how in the sam hill this is supposed to work.

I ground on the PS cable so it would fit in equalizer. It all fits together and looks good.



But the PS cable is like fiddlestring tight from the start, there is no way it will reach its mount on the top of the diff and it is all over the RH shock and fuel tank for rubbage.





For giggles I try the parking brake:





So basically I just reversed it and I think for the same reason. The cable doesn't have enough extra flop in it to pull the second brake tight.

I am about ready to scream at this point so I say screw it and put the tires back on it for now while I ponder what the heck is going on with the brakes.

 

[Uncle Gump]

Well on the bright side... the truck has some nice stance in the rear.

Maybe research some PS cable lengths and see if there is one that is longer. I guess a longer DS cable would work too. Or maybe stitch in a piece of un-housed cable between the foot control and equalizer...

Sorry this is giving you fits man.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Well on the bright side... the truck has some nice stance in the rear.

Maybe research some PS cable lengths and see if there is one that is longer. I guess a longer DS cable would work too. Or maybe stitch in a piece of un-housed cable between the foot control and equalizer...

Sorry this is giving you fits man.

When it quits raining I am going to go measure the unshielded cable length on my F-150. I might just go that route if it is close. I need longer shielded but the distance between the equalizer and connector link is about right.

For the Explorer cable rockauto calls out the following for the Bendix cables I bought:

Cable Diameter (IN)	0.125
Cable Length, Overall (IN)	78.120
Housing Length, Overall (IN)	69.620
Wire Fitting Type, End 1	Barrel
Wire Fitting Type, End 2	Loop

The sheath will probably be way too long but I can find somewhere to go with the extra if the other part works out.

Another thing I need to check into is the later model Rangers, they had similar brakes too.

 

[Shran]

Welcome to my life, I'm having the same issue with the parking brake on my Explorer after the disc brake swap, driver's side works great but it won't pull the passenger side cable at all. Does not help that I have the old style equalizer on my '92 and everyone else seems to have 93-up that is easier to work with. I'll figure it out sooner or later.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

"Yay, @Shran responded! He has built a bunch of weird stuff he probably has this figured out!"



I did find this:

8.8 Explorer with Discs swap to 93 4x4 4.0

So ive been looking through all the write ups and what not but i cant seem to find straight answers to my few questions. So i want to swap a 8.8 Rear out of a 95 explorer into my 93 ranger with a 4.0 and 4x4 (i belive its a 8.8 rear but 28 spline and drum) Im confused on a few things. 1) Will...

www.therangerstation.com

I am trying to wrap my head around how all this works together but I did find this stuff dangling out the bottom of my pickupbox trailer:



I wonder if I could move the bracket back and use the wire extender thing instead of the Dorman connector... its about a foot long though.