'85 Bronco II Paint & Body Thread

[sgtsandman]

As long as you aren’t using paint with metallic fleck in it, I say do it. You can get a very nice finish with it. Like mentioned above, prep is key.

The only job I hated doing was the visor for the 2011. Getting that metallic paint to show and polish properly was a very frustrating process.

Painting the tailgate on the ‘98 on the other hand was so much easier.

I used 600 and 800 grit between coats and 1,000, 1,500, 2,000, 3,000, and either 4,000 or 5,000 for the final wet sanding before using polishing compound and polishing wax.

One couldn’t tell the difference from the original paint and the rattle can paint after it was all said and done.

 

[ford4wd08]

As long as you aren’t using paint with metallic fleck in it, I say do it. You can get a very nice finish with it. Like mentioned above, prep is key.

The only job I hated doing was the visor for the 2011. Getting that metallic paint to show and polish properly was a very frustrating process.

Painting the tailgate on the ‘98 on the other hand was so much easier.

I used 600 and 800 grit between coats and 1,000, 1,500, 2,000, 3,000, and either 4,000 or 5,000 for the final wet sanding before using polishing compound and polishing wax.

One couldn’t tell the difference from the original paint and the rattle can paint after it was all said and done.

Thanks for the encouragement.

I'm going to pull it into the garage and start disassembly this weekend. I'm also going to try and do the rust removal.

 

[Shran]

I don't know why people here are so afraid of two-part paints and the chemicals in them. That's why they sell $25 masks with replaceable filters. Plus if you're doing it outside.... Even in a homemade paint booth (aka plastic drop-cloth) in your garage, a couple cheap Walmart box fans and dirt cheap furnace filters will pull the fumes out very quickly. Couple that with a cheap respirator and you're golden.

I don't worry about it too much but I do try to protect myself fairly well... full face respirator with the right filters and latex gloves. I have been around a lot of chemicals on a regular basis plus asbestos exposure and smoking in my 20s adds up... the isocyanates in paint are what I worry about. Colorless, odorless and tasteless so you don't even know you're being exposed (although usually the paint stinks so bad that it's pretty obvious.)

My buddy's dad worked in a body shop for a long time and is deathly sensitive to stuff like that now. I know another guy who was poisoned by propane of all things and is severely allergic to just about everything now... our occasional exposure is probably not a huge deal though.

 

[ford4wd08]

So a little update to my progress.

I started on the hood and roof for rust removal.

I bought a DA sander and went to work. I felt like it worked pretty well, the only issue is how fast it flashed rust down here in the south when you go to bare metal. So I bought some cheap spray etching primer, and I must say I wasn't too impressed. I'm starting to have flashbacks of some failed experiences I've had with rattle cans. I also rolled some "filler primer" on try to get some film build up.... what a joke. It was extremely thin and would flash quickly.

So... I'm rethinking all of this.

I've got the crap primer on there now to help with rust, but I think I'm going to sand it all off and try again after I finish the rest of the body worth.

I think I need to focus on disassembly, the body work, the i can primer it all at once then paint.

I'm also considering more single stage products now. With this amount of work, not sure i want to have to do thing again soon.

I will say the eastwood roll on primer system has caught my attention. I know it isn't the only primer that you can roll on, but i like that you can buy a kit and have just about everything you need.

I'm also considering a single stage urethane now. I've briefly looked at TCP global's stuff and east wood.

I think I'm just going to have to bite the bullet, and spray a good primer and top coat on this rig.

 

[ford4wd08]

Anyone heard of TAMCO paints?

Tamco Paint | Affordable & High Quality Automotive Paints

Want the best automotive paint, primers clears, Custom Colors and Candies! Tamco Paint is the best choice!

tamcopaint.com

From what I've read around online, they make a pretty good product. I've seen great reviews of their epoxy primer.

Thinking about looking more into their products.

 

[Shran]

^ that's what I have been using. It get sprayed right after a panel is sanded. Very light coats, just a misting is enough. Probably available at your local body shop supply place or they will have something similar.

Primers really aren't a rust prevention method. Especially etch primer - it's only real purpose is to make your top coatings stick. If you are still driving your truck or leaving it outside I would probably try to at least use a 2k primer or epoxy primer over the top of your etch coat...that way the area you took down to bare metal will have at least a little waterproofing.

I have used two types of 2k primer on mine so far, first was Nason SelectPrime 421-19 and am currently using U-Pol 2253. I liked how the Nason sprayed but it is quite expensive and goes on pretty thin. The U-Pol is definitely a lot thicker and was difficult to apply even with a 2mm tip on my gun. Works a lot better with reducer added but that's an additional bummer - the primer/hardener was about $80/gallon vs $67/quart for Nason but if you have to buy reducer as well, the cost starts to become a wash. @BlackBII said he was using Speedokote on his, I am curious how that compares.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

Put a clear coat over the primer to seal against moisture.

 

[ford4wd08]

View attachment 61095

^ that's what I have been using. It get sprayed right after a panel is sanded. Very light coats, just a misting is enough. Probably available at your local body shop supply place or they will have something similar.

Primers really aren't a rust prevention method. Especially etch primer - it's only real purpose is to make your top coatings stick. If you are still driving your truck or leaving it outside I would probably try to at least use a 2k primer or epoxy primer over the top of your etch coat...that way the area you took down to bare metal will have at least a little waterproofing.

I have used two types of 2k primer on mine so far, first was Nason SelectPrime 421-19 and am currently using U-Pol 2253. I liked how the Nason sprayed but it is quite expensive and goes on pretty thin. The U-Pol is definitely a lot thicker and was difficult to apply even with a 2mm tip on my gun. Works a lot better with reducer added but that's an additional bummer - the primer/hardener was about $80/gallon vs $67/quart for Nason but if you have to buy reducer as well, the cost starts to become a wash. @BlackBII said he was using Speedokote on his, I am curious how that compares.

Not driving it currently, it is locked away in the garage, I have pressed my '16 F150 into duty.

I'm debating on making a booth in my garage out of PVC and plastic sheeting. That and some box fans and additional lighting would be required.

Just trying to figure out what products are user friendly. I'm looking into epoxy primers then a high build.

 

[Shran]

Being out of the weather is the main thing.

From what I have been reading, usually you go down to bare metal and then either etch primer or epoxy primer (but not both) and then high build, then sealer. Some epoxy primers do not sand easily, some 2k primers (like this U-Pol stuff I am using) are DTM direct to metal rated so you could technically skip the etch or epoxy first step although that seems slightly risky to me now that I know what I know.

Good lighting will help a lot, especially spraying places like the bottom of your rocker panels. I missed a couple spots the first time I did mine because I couldn't see.

Another thing that helped me a lot was to get everything set up like you're going to paint, hose/gun hooked up and everything and do a dry run where you pretend like you're painting. Really helps to see if your hose will get snagged or is too short. You can also figure out where to strategically place a ladder or step stool for spraying the roof. Sounds kinda funny but nothing is more frustrating than finding out your hose is too short halfway through a body panel and increases your confidence level before you start.

 

[ford4wd08]

Being out of the weather is the main thing.

From what I have been reading, usually you go down to bare metal and then either etch primer or epoxy primer (but not both) and then high build, then sealer. Some epoxy primers do not sand easily, some 2k primers (like this U-Pol stuff I am using) are DTM direct to metal rated so you could technically skip the etch or epoxy first step although that seems slightly risky to me now that I know what I know.

Good lighting will help a lot, especially spraying places like the bottom of your rocker panels. I missed a couple spots the first time I did mine because I couldn't see.

Another thing that helped me a lot was to get everything set up like you're going to paint, hose/gun hooked up and everything and do a dry run where you pretend like you're painting. Really helps to see if your hose will get snagged or is too short. You can also figure out where to strategically place a ladder or step stool for spraying the roof. Sounds kinda funny but nothing is more frustrating than finding out your hose is too short halfway through a body panel and increases your confidence level before you start.

Good advice as usual.

I heard back from TAMCO on a couple of questions I had, there epoxy primers are supposed to be really good from everywhere I have researched.

The tech support guy said about the epoxies that Direct to Anything and Direct to Metal are rust encapsulators at three coats. He also said prime first then use body filler etc. The price isn't bad on them. I am thinking of doing 3 coats on the hood and roof of the Direct to Anything Primer, then at least one coat on the rest of the body. This is of course after I disassemble and get everything take off and the dents to the point they need body filler.

Their epoxy is also said to be pretty high build, might kill two birds with one stone.

 

[Shran]

There may be some high build epoxies, I haven't really dug into it that far. My concern with epoxies is how hard they will be to sand...some of them are apparently like sanding a rock, they cure super hard. You want something that sands easily for your high build coat(s).

My thoughts on body filler: I have used it on sanded painted surfaces, bare metal, and on top of primer. I haven't had a problem with it coming off of bare metal nor have I had rust form behind it that I'm aware of. Filler can react with etch primer, I try to avoid putting it right on top of that. The main thing to keep in mind is that you MUST spray 2-3 coats of primer over the filler...even if that ends up just being spot priming. Filler soaks up primer like crazy, if you do your 2-3 coats of high build, then filler, then just one coat of primer or sealer, you will see the outline of your filler. That is why I prefer to use filler earlier rather than later... plus if you need to pull a dent out or weld or use a stud puller, you're not stuck sanding a ton of primer off. Etch, prime, fill, prime prime prime prime prime, seal then top coat

 

[ford4wd08]

There may be some high build epoxies, I haven't really dug into it that far. My concern with epoxies is how hard they will be to sand...some of them are apparently like sanding a rock, they cure super hard. You want something that sands easily for your high build coat(s).

My thoughts on body filler: I have used it on sanded painted surfaces, bare metal, and on top of primer. I haven't had a problem with it coming off of bare metal nor have I had rust form behind it that I'm aware of. Filler can react with etch primer, I try to avoid putting it right on top of that. The main thing to keep in mind is that you MUST spray 2-3 coats of primer over the filler...even if that ends up just being spot priming. Filler soaks up primer like crazy, if you do your 2-3 coats of high build, then filler, then just one coat of primer or sealer, you will see the outline of your filler. That is why I prefer to use filler earlier rather than later... plus if you need to pull a dent out or weld or use a stud puller, you're not stuck sanding a ton of primer off. Etch, prime, fill, prime prime prime prime prime, seal then top coat

One of TAMCO's claim to fame is that it easily sanded... Guess there is only one way to find out.

Understood on the sealer/primer after body work.

 

[BlackBII]

Better to do it once and do it right. I used Speedokotes 2k primer and TCP's Urethane single stage, and it all worked great. I did use Sherwin Williams etch primer on all bare metal surfaces, they have a store just down the street from my house.

Filler on epoxy primer is fine. My dad restores mustangs and he typically gets the whole car to bare metal, sprays epoxy, then does body work and 2k primer and urethane single stage.

Edit - When I was doing my tailgate, I was out of etch primer so I bought some Rustoleum in a rattle can from autozone, and it wiped right off with wax and grease remover. No good at all.

 

[ford4wd08]

Better to do it once and do it right. I used Speedokotes 2k primer and TCP's Urethane single stage, and it all worked great. I did use Sherwin Williams etch primer on all bare metal surfaces, they have a store just down the street from my house.

Filler on epoxy primer is fine. My dad restores mustangs and he typically gets the whole car to bare metal, sprays epoxy, then does body work and 2k primer and urethane single stage.

Edit - When I was doing my tailgate, I was out of etch primer so I bought some Rustoleum in a rattle can from autozone, and it wiped right off with wax and grease remover. No good at all.

I experienced the same exact thing when I was working on mine, the etch primer wiped right off. It will keep rust at bay now, but I believe I'm going with Epoxy. Tamco stuff still has the lead the more I read about it.

 

[BlackBII]

I experienced the same exact thing when I was working on mine, the etch primer wiped right off. It will keep rust at bay now, but I believe I'm going with Epoxy. Tamco stuff still has the lead the more I read about it.

Nothing wrong with Epoxy, it works great.