84 2.0 carbed fuel system opinion

[neinnein_nein]

Hey guys. I’ve been slowly rebuilding my 1984 2.0L ranger for the past two years, all the starting components are new, plugs starter relays distributor, cables etc, and I dropped in a new clean fuel tank, filler hose, new sending unit, fuel filter once a year and I rebuilt the carb twice (last time was two months ago).
It runs well and usually starts right up when you pump the gas before turning the key, isles smooth except for the occasional small stutter (but really rare). Now two months after the last carb rebuilt it’s starting to have occasional trouble starting properly. It starts, does out, and then it’ll crank forever without engaging no matter what you do and how much gas you pump into it.
The last time I rebuilt the carb, that’s basically what it did until it didn’t start at all, and the problem was there were literally deposits of little rocks inside the carb, which were cleaned out.

Something is telling me it’s that again and that it’s coming from crap that accumulated in the fuel lines. Is that a possibility you think?

Was I stupid to change most of the fuel system but overlook the lines or can it be something else very obvious?

 

[rusty ol ranger]

Check the choke operation.

 

[RonD]

You have a fuel filter on the carb right?

On mechanical fuel pump systems the filter is between pump on the engine and the carb
And the screen filter in the gas tank of course, the "sock"

Simple test is the 50/50 test
On any Crank but No Start you spray fuel into the engine and then try to start it
If it starts and dies then yes, it is a fuel delivery issue
If it still doesn't start then its a Spark issue
50/50 easy peasy

On the 2.0l/2.3l/2.5l engines there is also the Timing Belt, it can slip or break suddenly so a No Start even by adding fuel manually
Easy to look and see if Cam Gear is turning when engine is cranking

 

[neinnein_nein]

Fuel filter on carb yes. I’ll try the 50/50 test and then try to finally learn how to adjust the choke correctly if it’s not gas. Unless the gas lines are infested with heaps of trash, gas delivery should be fine because I changed pump, tank, sending, fuel filter and rebuilt carb 1.5 months ago.
It just got much colder pretty suddenly here in ny and I imagine it’s something with the choke and fuel mixture that needs to be changed for winter? Opinions seem to vary on the subject but I read that a richer mixture works best for winter? that a myth?

 

[rusty ol ranger]

Should be a round black thing on the side of the carb held on with 3 screws in a triangle shape.

Loosen those 3 screws and turn the black round thing to the left (if its the same as a 2150 2bbl) slightly. This will close the choke "harder" and keep it closed longer for cold weather.

Also, check for proper acclerator pump operation, pull the air cleaner and pump the throttle lever by hand, you should see a steady, hard "burst" of fuel dumping down the throat.

 

[neinnein_nein]

Should be a round black thing on the side of the carb held on with 3 screws in a triangle shape.

Loosen those 3 screws and turn the black round thing to the left (if its the same as a 2150 2bbl) slightly. This will close the choke "harder" and keep it closed longer for cold weather.

Also, check for proper acclerator pump operation, pull the air cleaner and pump the throttle lever by hand, you should see a steady, hard "burst" of fuel dumping down the throat.

Right! I’ll check again because I have 2 carbs and on one of them the black thing is held by rivets and you can’t really adjust it like that, I forget which one is on the truck right now.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

Most of my old carbs I converted to manual choke. Pretty simple and nowadays a theft deterrent.

 

[RonD]

Most of the newer carbs and all of the feedback carbs had the rivets on the choke adjust, so if you wanted to adjust the choke you had to drill them out and put in self tapping screws, or ??

But my first impression wasn't a choke problem.

 

[neinnein_nein]

Most of my old carbs I converted to manual choke. Pretty simple and nowadays a theft deterrent.

is converting them really as simple as RonD says. Sounds like there’s no reason not to then..

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

Center punch and probably 1/8" drill bit. #8 or maybe #10 self-tapping hex head screws. That way you can set the choke yourself.

 

[neinnein_nein]

Center punch and probably 1/8" drill bit. #8 or maybe #10 self-tapping hex head screws. That way you can set the choke yourself.

Wow that’s awesome. will give it a try

 

[neinnein_nein]

This thing? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CO7CK0/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_i_Yb5XDbZAFHH7T

9 bucks, close choke when it’s cold to make it easier to start and then open it once the engines warm. Is it that simple? It sounds really great AND too good to be true..

 

[RonD]

lol, yes, that is a manual choke conversion kit

Automatic chokes are way better, like you have now, they just need to be adjusted for summer and winter in areas with wide temp swings

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

Yes, that's the kit.
And RonD is correct if the automatic choke will work, use it.
Try drilling out the rivets and setting the automatic choke as Rusty described. If that won't work THEN go to manual.
Manual chokes are an art all their own. But once you get the hang of it they're great.

 

[neinnein_nein]

Ok ok, I’ll just drill out the rivets, put some screws in there and turn that thing left a little for now.
If that doesn’t work... frick it, I’m going full manual