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83 Bii w "D4" axle swap 84 ranger "86"


rezmedic

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I have access to an 83 B2 that has a sticker axle code"D4" which i believe to be a limited slip 7.5" 3.73 that I am thinkin of swapping into my ranger that has a axle code "86".

Both trucks have the TK5.

Only apparent difference is sway bar on bronco.

Can I disconnect Springs from body, lower shock bolt, brakeline at top of diff, swaybar and driveline and install that whole set in ranger as easy as that?

9 bolts and nuts and be done?

Will there be alignment issues with driveline, pumpkin and wheels?

Thanks, :icon_thumby:
 


4x4junkie

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You sure on the year? (there was no '83 BII)

Regardless, all BII rears are the same width, which is wider than your Ranger's rear. You'd have to move the leaf spring perches on it inward 1" each side to have it fit your Ranger properly.
 

rezmedic

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Pretty sure of the year....

You sure on the year? (there was no '83 BII)
Here is a pic of door sticker:



Here is a pic of the fender I.D. plates:




and widescreen of front half:

 

4x4junkie

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It's very common for a vehicle to be manufactured and released for sale to the public well ahead of it's model year date (the 1997 Ford F-150 I recall was selling right alongside the '96 models right at the beginning of '96 (or maybe was it even at the end of '95?), the '83 Ranger was put on dealer lots early '82).

I'd fix that BII up and drive the thing. Looks like it's in fairly decent shape from what I can see in your pics (I know the guys back east in the Rust Belt would cringe if they saw that thing go to waste lol)
 

rezmedic

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It is in VERY good shape! someone did alot of work to it before my in-laws got it.
Their son tore the dash up getting the stereo out:sad:though.
Not sure why it was sold, it looks like someone did a DS on it and put a 2.8L out of a 78 'stang into it. Even after 5+ years of sitting the oil is clean, no real oil stains on the engine which looks freshly rebuilt and/or painted, new brake lines all the way around. I was quite surprised, and a little guilty for taking stuff off it, at its condition when I was cannibalizing the wheels off it

From the little I know about it it sounds like some problems starting after the DS conversion, but that was not from a reliable source.

Next weekend or so I plan on trying to get it running. any tips on starting a engine that sat for several years to reduce wear? I know to put something in cylinders through plugs but what?

Oil, Seafoam? WD-40? PB Blaster?
Should I hand crank first? I am mechanically inclined with only moderate experience though.

Any tips would be Greatly appreciated.
 

dangerranger83

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Hand cranking wont build up oil pressure. To prperly do it you would have to pull the dizzy and turn the oil pump by means of a drill with the proper tool and even then, tis right up aginst the fire wall.

I say put a shot of oil or something down the cylinders and rotae the engine over but not to much as to keep from fouling the plugs.

As for me, I just go crank her over. Get tas much of the old fuel out of her and put fresh in and prime the carb along with a shot down the carb in the intake to help fire her over. After sitting a so many years it may burn oil for a bit around the valve stems but once they heat up and get oil back in them it should be good. Had the samething happen to my dads old 84 and on a rebuilt engine that had sat for 5 years that we had swapped into it.
 

rezmedic

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I s'pose its gonna get dry start wear no matter what, especially when it was supposed to have ignition problems, only way to see is fuel it, charge it, crank it and start from there.....

If it does have some issue with the duraspark conversion as I am led to believe, it may be cranked quite abit.... only time will tell!!
 

AllanD

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You sure on the year? (there was no '83 BII)

Regardless, all BII rears are the same width, which is wider than your Ranger's rear. You'd have to move the leaf spring perches on it inward 1" each side to have it fit your Ranger properly.
Bronco2 rears are NOT, NOT the same width.

The spring mounts are ~3/4" further apart and the axle is 1-5/8" wider than a Gen1 Ranger.

ALL The "extra" width is on the RIGHT SIDE axle tube and shaft

In a bronco2 the driveshaft doesn't need to be offset towards the passenger side to gain gastank clearance like on a Ranger.

AD
 

rezmedic

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Bronco2 rears are NOT, NOT the same width.

The spring mounts are ~3/4" further apart and the axle is 1-5/8" wider than a Gen1 Ranger.

ALL The "extra" width is on the RIGHT SIDE axle tube and shaft

In a bronco2 the driveshaft doesn't need to be offset towards the passenger side to gain gastank clearance like on a Ranger.

AD
I think he meant all bronco axles are the same width, on all broncos and they all are wider then rangers.

Either way it looks like I would have to do some modification and/or fabrication to put the limited slip axle under the ranger:icon_welder:.
Dang I was hoping to just unbolt it and bolt it up to my ranger.....ah, the best laid plans of mice and men.
 

4x4junkie

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Yes, you read the post correctly, rezmedic.
 

AllanD

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Yes, you read the post correctly, rezmedic.
If I misread it on a quick read I still "clarify".

Because If I can misunderstand it even for a split second... well you get the idea...

AD
 

rezmedic

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If I misread it on a quick read I still "clarify".

Because If I can misunderstand it even for a split second... well you get the idea...

AD
As I am new to this I appreciate ALL info and clarifications I can get crammed into my brain :)
 

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