80's Ranger 4x4 for the Trails

[eightynine4x4]

Exhibit A.
Rear left mount and removed hardware.
Yikes!
Nothing to see here folks. Move along..

 

[eightynine4x4]

I've gotta replace all 6 mount brackets, or come up with modifications to them. They all have expanded mount holes from rust. The rest of the bracket physically is fine, for all 6.
Two new rear ones can be bought for 55$ for the pair new. From small scale maker in the US, not at all the OEM design but apparently still good.
The other four are looking to be very difficult to find at all.
If anybody has a lead on someone who might have good mount brackets available on a parts truck that they'd be willing to grind off, please let me know!
The good news is that if i replace them all, the job is easier than replacing the bushings.
However, i might consider a weld job. I just don't like the idea of tackling that since the whole cab would essentially need to be raised super high and there's other costs involved since i don't own equipment and would have to buy and learn or just pay someone to come do it on site.

 

[eightynine4x4]

Driveway season has arrived in New York!
Some of you may remember, but to summarize, this truck has a 4" suspension lift (an older Rancho one) which includes some extended radius arms and so it has a nice tight turning radius. I took out the 3" bed lift and mounted it back on with new hardware. That was pretty tough! The previous stuff was a nightmare to get off.
There are plenty of projects coming up, including "repairing" the cab mounts since they're all in bad shape (and also removing the 3" lift from cab). However, i was able to rig them fine enough to scoot around this small town that's only a couple square miles. Yesterday i took it out for a 20 minute ride. First time doing this. And finally, to my excitement, the engine settled into a nice calm idle after it warmed up and got some minor huffing and puffing out of the way. At the end of the fall I had done a Seafoam treatment and never drove the truck as much as one is supposed to after doing that, so i think i contributed some to the winter grogginess. But I got my first taste of the truck running how it should. Previously it never really idled below 1000-1100, but yesterday it settled down below 1000, and sounded far smoother.
Anyways, the first thing i want to tackle is removing the steering stabilizer. Some of you here had mentioned it's just overkill. But wanted to get some confirmation of that here again before proceeding with taking it out. I don't want the clutter if it's not doing anything. So, is it even doing anything? The steering felt fantastic driving around yesterday. But i was only going 10-15-20 mph. I did take lots of tight turns in small roads and intersections, and it handled very well. I have some stuff to learn about suspension and i believe the stabilization is mostly meant for higher speeds and turns/vibrations. So maybe it's going to help at some point.
Any thoughts? Pic below..
Thanks!

 

[gaz]

eightynine,

Don't remove the steering stabilizer unless it's broken. With tires larger than 25", my steering wheel was really giving a workout until I installed a stabilizer. I wouldn't want to be without it.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Most guys don't have the stabilizer.

 

[eightynine4x4]

Haha ok, differing opinions sorta.
Well, if I removed it, when am I going to feel something different? Just trying to grasp this functionally

 

[ericbphoto]

Most guys don't have the stabilizer.

I'm running 35's without one.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Haha ok, differing opinions sorta.
Well, if I removed it, when am I going to feel something different? Just trying to grasp this functionally

Dont throw it away. If you miss it throw it back on?

 

[eightynine4x4]

I took it off but will hold onto it. Drove it around and didn’t notice anything different but maybe eventually I will.
Unrelated .. is there a standard method for entering 4x4? Its an automatic transmission...

 

[RonD]

In 1986 and up Rangers, Ford added an electric clutch to "electric shift" transfer cases
So you can shift from 2WD to 4high anytime when under say 45mph, and back to 2WD

For 4low you must be stopped, foot on the brake and clutch pedal down OR automatic shifted to Neutral, then press 4low button, same for shifting back out of 4low

 

[eightynine4x4]

I don’t think anything is electronic on this one..

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Even manual is shift on the fly.

Manual hubs must be locked in prior of course.

It is critical for both systems the axles are spinning the same speed however.

 

[RonD]

Yes, +1 on the front hubs being locked or you WILL hear grinding, lol

 

[eightynine4x4]

Ok so whenever planning to use 4x4, the blocking hubs need to first be hand locked, then when driving I can switch freely to 4H while under 50mph (taken with a grain of salt) but if wanting to switch to 4L I should slow to a stop and shift in?
Since I have an N position in my transfer case shifter, do I just ignore the steering column shifter for N? Just leave it in D ? Getting back to the hubs... is it a bad idea to leave them locked for day to day driving, just for the convenience of being able to hop into 4x4 without getting out of truck? Such as during snowy times ...

 

[ericbphoto]

Ok so whenever planning to use 4x4, the blocking hubs need to first be hand locked, then when driving I can switch freely to 4H while under 50mph (taken with a grain of salt) but if wanting to switch to 4L I should slow to a stop and shift in?

Exactly

Since I have an N position in my transfer case shifter, do I just ignore the steering column shifter for N?

Most of the time, ignore the neutral position for the transfer case. It could be handy if you get the front and rear bound up against each other, to relieve tension. But most of the time, ignore it. Use your transmission as normal.

With an open differential, it is OK to leave the hubs locked for normal driving.