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80's Ranger 4x4 for the Trails


eightynine4x4

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Your throttle is all the way closed, a high idle indicates a vacuum leak somewhere past the throttle plate like vacuum lines, brake booster, intake manifold gaskets, broken EGR valve, etc...

That is unless the IAC valve is gummy and stuck open, that would do it...
I took off the IAC and it didn’t look bad inside, but I gave it a good clean and tested the solenoid which works properly.
I will look for a vacuum diagram for this truck and get to work.
I’m not sure what I should do about the throttle adjustment screw in the mean time. It’s one turn more retracted than it was as I got the truck, and it meets perfectly with the pate lowering back down closed. For now I’ll just keep it how I have it since the RPMs are lower but I anticipate ill want to assess fully this later, if it’s possible to get my hands on some adjustment information for it ..
 


Rock Auto 5% Discount Code: 7FA902352B4C01: April 5th, 2021

eightynine4x4

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Rear differential pics. This is before cleaning off the surfaces
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85_Ranger4x4

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Cool, you even have a limited slip!

Probably needs rebuilt but you can still say you have it. :icon_twisted:
 

dvdswan

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My credo
Keep your mind like an umbrella, it only works if its open... Continually learning.
I can smell the used gear oil from here...
 

eightynine4x4

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Wow cool, so in summary..
With the limited slip in rear, it’s bad at all times to leave the hubs locked when not in 4x4.
But, on the positive, my “rear wheel drive mode” has more usable traction with the limited slip so I’ll need 4x4 less.
Is there any way to test if the LS needs to be rebuilt or not ?
 

eightynine4x4

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Found a video showing the vacuum lines that I should be expecting in my 2.9..

Then I took a look at my engine and right off the bat found something completely missing.. a second hose connected to the air filter..

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eightynine4x4

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On the bottom side of the throttle body, pointing down, was a completely wide open small vacuum connection. I can’t believe I hadn’t seen it before because I had taken the throttle body off twice previously.
Using the video just linked, I was able to determine that the charcoal box was supposed to connect here. My charcoal box was connected instead to the top of the intake, at the same double juncture as the MAP/MAF sensor. This spot, naturally, was supposed to connect to the air filter box’s second vacuum hole which in my truck is open as well as just pictured. So I pulled this incorrect charcoal box line and connected it to the correct and available spot under throttle body. Then using some proper sized vacuum hose I made a connection from the top of instake over to air box.
Fingers crossed this has an impact. I dont know how it couldn’t since that spot under throttle was wide open and now it’s not.
 

85_Ranger4x4

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Wow cool, so in summary..
With the limited slip in rear, it’s bad at all times to leave the hubs locked when not in 4x4.
But, on the positive, my “rear wheel drive mode” has more usable traction with the limited slip so I’ll need 4x4 less.
Is there any way to test if the LS needs to be rebuilt or not ?
Not sure about the hub thing.

Block a front wheel or two, put the trans in neutral, jack up a rear tire and see how hard it is to spin the wheel by hand. It should fight you.

Generally by 100k they are wore out. Looking at your gear oil it has awhile since anybody has looked at your rear diff.
 

eightynine4x4

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Thanks will check a wheel soon.

Took it for a spin after correcting the vacuum issues. DRAMATIC improvement in the entire mechanical operation. This was the significant fix I was looking for. FAR less noise in engine, idle is low enough, shifting between P/R/N/D is remarkably quicker, less exhaust smell, the engine never lopes or sounds unsteady at all, power seems more in tune with the throttle, etc.
For 15 minutes there was even no lifter ticking. Eventually it came back but I think that’s a separate issue.
I’m glad to also have installed the multiple new sensors. I still want to get to all of them so that I’m confident in the engines self read outs going forward.
 

eightynine4x4

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Another consistent code reading has been that the O2 sensor is faulty or out of range.
I have a replacement but was unsure wether or not the reading was just related to other engine factors or if it was in fact the sensor.
I finally found the location of the sensor today and put a socket down in to try and twist it out. I got it over top of it and just touching it made the sensor snap in half. The top just fell right off without any force. So i'm assuming that it was completely toast, literally. I consider this to be excellent news since that means there some explanation to some remaining symptoms.
The remaining part of the old sensor, if i'm interpreting correctly, is the hex base of it. It's about 21mm but maybe 20mm. It's not a standard O2 hex size. The 21mm wants to slip so i'm picking up a 20mm tomorrow to test. I'm pretty worried about this breaking apart when i try to turn it. I'd almost rather it not budge at all than break apart and leave a hole in the Y pipe.
I know if i left it in place that means committing to drilling and welding a new O2 bung right by it. Sounds like a nightmare because i'd probably have to take out the Y pipe to do this since it includes welding and access down there is horrible. And i know removing the flange bolts to manifolds to remove Y pipe will not be a nice time.
But i'm going to give the sensor a real shot with PB Blaster and the 20mm socket. If i can get it to twist, it'll be a big victory. There's just enough room for me to slip my arm in above the cad converters and have a modest size wrench in there. I might be able to hook up an extension bar and gain lot of leverage from the side of the truck.
I know that temperature also comes into play. If it were more accessible I'd torch it a good long while first.
The only way to truly gain access is to remove the cad's/exhaust and then there'd be space to get a torch in there and also much better leverage with tools.

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eightynine4x4

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Got the cats out.
Well, I do not see how this is converting anything.
Is this just a dummy installed to fake out inspections?

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Roert42

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I know in Pa that they are supposed to do a visual inspection of the emission equipment. So even if there is not check engine light/codes, they need to look and see if all the parts are still installed. So some people will hollow out the cats to pass the visual.
 

eightynine4x4

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I know in Pa that they are supposed to do a visual inspection of the emission equipment. So even if there is not check engine light/codes, they need to look and see if all the parts are still installed. So some people will hollow out the cats to pass the visual.
Guess I’m about the buy a new one!
Again I consider this good news for the truck. With all these direct signs of need, I’m looking forward to completing this step and smelling the difference !

Is something like this just total garbage quality? Price is the best I’ve found so far..
 

Roert42

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Guess I’m about the buy a new one!
Again I consider this good news for the truck. With all these direct signs of need, I’m looking forward to completing this step and smelling the difference !

Is something like this just total garbage quality? Price is the best I’ve found so far..
I would honestly forgo trying find direct replacement parts for an exhaust system. At this point I would get a universal high flow, flow master or something, and have an exhaust shop fab something up for you. Would probably be cheaper and run nicer.
 

85_Ranger4x4

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I would honestly forgo trying find direct replacement parts for an exhaust system. At this point I would get a universal high flow, flow master or something, and have an exhaust shop fab something up for you. Would probably be cheaper and run nicer.
Agreed, some places may get picky about generic cats though.
 


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