80's Ranger 4x4 for the Trails

[ericbphoto]

Do not drive on hard dry surfaces in 4x4 with the hubs locked. This puts strain on drive train components and is likely to cause damage.

There are ways to get the original window sticker for your vehicle printed. I think there was an active thread about that a few days ago.

Build sheet info

 

[eightynine4x4]

Do not drive on hard dry surfaces in 4x4 with the hubs locked. This puts strain on drive train components and is likely to cause damage.

There are ways to get the original window sticker for your vehicle printed. I think there was an active thread about that a few days ago.

Build sheet info

Yeah, i just wanted to do a 30 second test to see if it worked. Will wait until i can get on some grass to try again.

I did a live video endoscope of the DIY wired up linkage. Kinda blurry since the cam is meant to be even closer. Here's with accessory electric on, from P, to R, to P, to R, to P... https://www.dropbox.com/s/ysul0i60lyfzvta/IMG_1916.mp4?dl=0

It seems to work fine, just lame DIY and will search to find the correct part. It's not easy to find though, since i don't know what i'm looking for. "Bushing" seems incorrect. I feel like it has to be something like this below, which encases the connection. But maybe it's not supposed to be this bulky. Maybe the one that's currently installed is all that's supposed to be there but is cracked and not holding its own.

 

[eightynine4x4]

The count says TWO.
Ah.
Ah.

Anyone have any pointers about removing the lower block? I’ve got the rear frame on stands on both sides (not bumper) raised several inches but not enough that the tires are floating. So some of the pressure from leaf springs is removed, but not all. Would it be completely unwise to take a hammer and crow bar and just bop it out? It does seem like all other pieces will stay aligned but I’m not 100% on that. I kinda assume the leaf springs will push pretty hard down and worry about all the consequences of that.
And which way will these lower blocks want to be pushed out? To the rear? Hard to tell exactly how they’re designed and im wondering if there is a lip on one side.

 

[ericbphoto]

The count says TWO.
Ah.
Ah.

Anyone have any pointers about removing the lower block? I’ve got the rear frame on stands on both sides (not bumper) raised several inches but not enough that the tires are floating. So some of the pressure from leaf springs is removed, but not all. Would it be completely unwise to take a hammer and crow bar and just bop it out? It does seem like all other pieces will stay aligned but I’m not 100% on that. I kinda assume the leaf springs will push pretty hard down and worry about all the consequences of that.
And which way will these lower blocks want to be pushed out? To the rear? Hard to tell exactly how they’re designed and im wondering if there is a lip on one side.


View attachment 52115

Your lift blocks will not just slide out. You will have to lift the truck a bit higher so you have clearance to get past the centering pins. For example; the spring has a bolt that serves as a pin locating it in a hole on the top of the block. If there was no block, that bolt head would fit in a hole in the spring perch on the axle.

Looks like you’re getting a lot of “entertainment “ out of those u-bolts.

 

[eightynine4x4]

Your lift blocks will not just slide out. You will have to lift the truck a bit higher so you have clearance to get past the centering pins. For example; the spring has a bolt that serves as a pin locating it in a hole on the top of the block. If there was no block, that bolt head would fit in a hole in the spring perch on the axle.

looks like you’re getting a lot of “entertainment “ out if those u-bolts.

So does that mean that there is a hole in the top of the lower lift block and the bolt from spring would go into said hole?

 

[ericbphoto]

It should, yes. It’s been a while since I played with them, but i believe the blocks have a hole on the top and a protrusion cast into the bottom for alignment.

 

[sgtsandman]

There is a hole on the top of the lift blocks that the spring bolt goes into. The bottom of block has a pin that goes into the spring perch. Since you have two blocks, the pin of the one block will go into the hole of the other block. They will all be locked together until you get some space between the spring and the blocks.

 

[eightynine4x4]

How about I jack it further up just a bit via the differential, then remove the wheels so that there’s a bunch of clearance, then lower the axle jack and let the suspension hang freely.
if I have that slack, will I be able to maybe just pry up the top OEM block with a crowbar a little bit and somehow yank out the lower block once it’s out of its centering? Then carefully lower it back down with the crowbar situation?

I’m thinking it might just be the weight of the springs I’m lowering, not pressure from them.
I’d hate to have to remove the leaf springs to do this.

 

[ericbphoto]

Removing the wheels should help a lot.

 

[eightynine4x4]

Out

 

[eightynine4x4]

Got the proper blocks settled back in to top holes of axle mount piece and all is resting as it should now. Reattached shocks since I had detached them and raised the frame until a gap opened up in blocks. Made it easy and didn’t need to remove wheels. Can’t take credit for the shock removal idea since my buddy down the street rolled by to help and told me what to do haha.
So everything is good except the U bolts need to go in tomorrow. The stance is far nicer. This was the project that I looked forward to the least so tackled it sorta first. Next up is the body mounts of cab. I’m still considering making another attempt at getting the bed freed up from the body lift and removing the whole body lift now.

 

[eightynine4x4]

I thought there were supposed to be "fore" / "aft" markings on these, but I don't see them now. I saw the markings in some video of this installation process.
The general 180/180 direction is clear since there is a clear wear markings from the left spring underneath. In this pic, it's like looking from the side of the truck, spring going left to right. but I'm not sure which of the two ways it should be flipped.
I also don't see anything asymmetrical about the physical shaping.

 

[ericbphoto]

Those plates should be pretty symmetrical. The blocks would be wedge shaped to give the proper pinion angle. So they have to be installed correctly.

 

[eightynine4x4]

Those plates should be pretty symmetrical. The blocks would be wedge shaped to give the proper pinion angle. So they have to be installed correctly.

Didnt ever have to take out the top OEM blocks so they’re still set. I think I figured out the plates and have them in as labeled. One of them had a marking I found. There is just barely the smallest difference though and it seems to be just on top edges. I don’t think it would matter.
So the U bolts are in! Tightened them just a bit beyond hand tight and will properly torque them tomorrow and take it for a spin. Not sure what torque they need to be but I think it’s all listed in the Haynes I have.
Glad to be done with this one.

 

[sgtsandman]

Just remember to check torque a few times after driving places. When the nuts stop moving, the suspension is settled in and ain't gonna move no more. It think it took me four times before the nuts would no longer torque.