7.5 LOCK RIGHT install for tech library

[86XLT]

Ford 7.5 Lock-Right Install
By: Josh Lee​

First, take out the spare tire to provide clearance for removing the differential cover.Next, Jack up the rear of the truck and place securely on jackstands. Don't forget to chock the front tires!

Next, drain the gear oil out of the differential.

Next, remove the bolt securing the crosspin in place located on the passenger side of the diff. carrier. (hint...rotate the carrier to fit a 1/4" ratchet between the bolt and the bearing cap)Note- truck must be in nuetral.

Next, slide out the crosspin then rotate the carrier to remove the spider gears.

With the spiders and crosspin removed you can slide in the axle shaft to remove the C-clips that retain the axleshafts. (hint... if the axle shaft doesn't slide in far enough for the C-clips to clear the side gears, try loosening the adjusters on the drum brakes. Worn drums will have a lip on the edge of the pad preventing you to slide the hub and axle shaft inward)

After the C-clips are removed, you can slide the axle shafts out about 4 to 6" and pull out the side gears. Note, there are thrust washers located behind the side gears. Dont mix these up, you will need to install them in the sides they came out of.

Grease up the cogs on both couplers and slide the driver side coupler and slide in the axle shaft, and install the C-clip with the open end pointing down so it wont fall off. Now sharply pull on the driver side tire/hub to seat the C-clip.

Now install the passenger side coupler and slide in the axle shaft so it is flush with the coupler. Grease up the cogs on both drivers. Apply grease to the shear pins and install into windows of drivers. Place the small diameter springs into the large diameter springs and fill with grease so they wont seperate. Slide a driver onto the the driver side driver, seating the cogs and slide the spacer inside the driver and make sure it seats over the C-clip and the shoulder built in to the coupler. The grease will hold it in place. Note, notice the flat spots on the outside of the drivers...they allow you to slide the driver into the carrier.

Now slide the other spacer inside the driver and slide it into the case. sit it to the opposite side and now slide in the passenger side axle shaft. There is a recess in the cogs to slide in the C-clip. Pull tire/hub out sharply to seat C-clip again. Line up cogs on passenger side coupler and driver. Use a screw driver to seat the spacer onto the C-clip. Now you can line up the drivers so the crosspin holes match and start sliding the shear pins to the opposite driver using a small screwdriver in the windows.

Next install the springs into the windows to secure the pins in place. Make sure the springs are seated all the way back in the window. The installation manual recommended using a small screwdriver to compress the spring, but i had no problem with my fingers then using a screwdriver to seat the spring properly.

Now rotate the axle shaft so the bolt hole for the crosspin is facing you and install the crosspin and retaining bolt.

Your Lock-Right is now installed and you are ready to replace diff. cover,(after cleaning old gasket of coarse) and fill with gear oil. No limited slip friction modifier needed.

Happy wheeling! and don't forget that a locker can get you into alot more trouble than an open diff. so don't be careless.

 

[Jim Oaks]

Thanks Josh. You have larger pics we can use?

 

[rebel3.0]

yea they are small but, very help full

 

[86XLT]

yes i have larger pics but i didnt want to take up a bunch of server space...would you like me to send or post them somewhere??

 

[Jim Oaks]

Just email them to me at admin@therangerstation.com and I'll match them up.

Thanks!

 

[Rocky Ranger]

Good Job!

Nice tech article!
How much for that kit?

 

[86XLT]

The Lock-Right I got on ebay for $352.97 shipped to my door. And then about $30 for gear oil and the diff cover gasket.

 

[Hardwareman]

Is there really that noticeable of a difference with a locker compared to a stock open diff? I have the kind where if I'm stuck, one tire spins, the other does nothing.



Allen

 

[86XLT]

Extreme difference!! Every where I could go in 4wd, I can go in 2wd. This locks the axle shafts so both tires will spin. I can now get my truck sideways on dry pavement with no problem.

 

[ckblum]

Quick question. Im taking my box off soon, if I get a locker would it be easy to install with the box off? I have a second gas tank instead of a spare and there is a big skid plate over it so I think removing it for clearance would be a pain.

 

[86XLT]

If you can slide the diff cover off then it can be done without removing the box...my spare tire was close enough to the rearend there was evidence of the tire rubbing the diff cover during susp. compression, and it did not look like enough room to remove the diff cover between the ring gear and tire because of its shape. It may have been possible but i didnt even try. As for your situation, I bet you could get by with just removing the skid plate, it should only be about 4 or 6 bolts. I kind of doubt removing the bed will help much.

 

[erslincoln]

It might be me, but it looks like the pic links are broken. Are these photos stored elsewhere?

 

[Dishtowel]

Is there really that noticeable of a difference with a locker compared to a stock open diff? I have the kind where if I'm stuck, one tire spins, the other does nothing.



Allen

You have an open diff. Fine for a on road truck, but I laugh on the inside at guys that want to be serious about 4x4ing and stay with open diffs.

There is a HUGE difference. Lockers are worth it if the truck sees 50% (or more) on road use. If you see less on road than that, I think it's just better to weld it, way cheaper.

Thnks for the tech contribution 86XLT