2.3L ('83-'97) 5th heater core in 2 years

[Mxminiracer99]

I have a 97 ford 2.3l, I keep blowing heater cores, the first engine blew 2, and then I put a new engine in due to lean on bank 1 blew piston from intermittent fuel pump, so I installed a 40k engine from a 97 in it, and now went through 3 more heater cores, temp gauge seems fine, all new water pump, thermostat, rad, and a tune up before a installed the engine last year, truck runs great no problems, has plenty of power than the last engine, it's lifted on 31 2wd and no problem at high way speeds, i just can't keep a heater core in it, any suggestions

 

[Dirtman]

Stop buying heater cores from china?

 

[Mxminiracer99]

What do you consider China, what heater core is made in USA, I bought a ford one, napa, advance, auto zone, and rick auto, so please enlighten me who in the USA makes a heater core that won't blow in less then 4 months

 

[dvdswan]

Which ones do you think are made in USA... the bottom 2 have a warrantee for 24 mos., the others are 12 months.

 

[snoranger]

Sound like a pressure or vibration problem (or cheap heater cores.)

Pressure is regulated by the radiator cap. Has it ever been replaced?

Vibration... Are they leaking in the same place each time? Is there foam around your heater core or is it bare metal to plastic? Are they wearing then leaking or are the seams blowing out?

 

[Mxminiracer99]

I was thinking somehow the system is getting over pressurized, cause coolant pours out when the cap is off, and when the cap is on after its been running you cant squeeze the top rad hose, but that would mean a head gasket, but I'm not getting anything in the cylinder, truck runs like a raped ape for a 4 banger, faster than my 4.0

 

[Mxminiracer99]

They keep cracking ob the seams in the fins

 

[Mxminiracer99]

It's like it gets too hot and thats the weakest link

 

[95TravelinRanger]

It's probably electrolysis bro. Stick a digital multimeter in your rad while truck is OFF. Be careful not to touch the metal in the rad anywhere.

If there is a current above .4 volts (according to FORD) then you have an electrolysis issue. Disconnect your battery and if the measured current drops then you have a grounding issue. Make sure that old ass fluid has been flushed and changed!!!!

 

[snoranger]

Make sure that old ass fluid has been flushed and changed!!!!

He swapped the motor between heater core #2 and #3... There’s a pretty good chance the coolant got changed then.

 

[95TravelinRanger]

Electrolysis can be due to fluid or grounding issue!

He swapped the motor between heater core #2 and #3... There’s a pretty good chance the coolant got changed then.

 

[RonD]

Radiator cap should keep pressure in the system under 16psi, you could try a 14psi cap if you want

Pressure in a cooling system comes from coolant expanding when heated, when it gets above the rad caps pressure rating it pushes up the big spring valve in the cap and lets excess coolant flow over to the overflow tank
This usually happens everytime you drive longer than 15 minutes

16psi(14psi) will make hoses hard, air pressure at sea level is 15psi, so it 16psi over that

When engine is off and coolant cools down, if any coolant was sent over to overflow tank then the pressure at the rad cap will drop below the outside pressure(15psi) and the SMALL valve in the rad cap will be push open by outside pressure(15psi) in the overflow tank(its not sealed) and push any coolant, that came ove,r back into radiator

So when you remove the rad cap on a cold engine coolant should ALWAYS be at the very top, no air at all