5.0 swap... unless you can come up with a better idea

[curtis73]

These past two weeks towing the boat on vacation really convinced me I need more oomph than my 4.0L OHV can provide. For the longest time I've been craving a diesel swap, but it's difficult to find one in the 3-4 liter range that has A) a decent aftermarket, B) doesn't cost a fortune, and C) mates up to a suitable manual trans.

Truck in question is a 94 Branger, M5R1, 4x4.

I'm trying to figure out (since I'm not finding decent diesel options) what the easiest gas swap would be and I gotta think it must be the 5.0L which could get mated to an M5R2 and I could keep the BW t-case. Careful placement might even let me keep the stock driveshafts (he says hopefully) I thought about the 4.6L but 302s are a dime a dozen and they came as an option in this particular chassis.

Any others I should be thinking about? Main focus here is parts-bin swapping. I'd like to keep it as simple as possible. For that reason, I can't really do "LS 5.3L with a Novak adapter for an NSG370 trans." If I'm on the road and need a part I don't want to have to call Novak (for example) for their proprietary billet pilot bushing and wait a week. I'd rather go to NAPA and get it for $5 off the shelf.

If you had a wimpy 94 B4000 that towed up to 3500 lbs in the mountains of the northeast, what would you put in it? Do I make it a B5000?

 

[retep88]

it sounds like a bit of a down grade, but maybe think about a new 2.3L ecoboost? They will bolt up to the later model 2.3 ranger transmission and someone on the forum already swapped one into a truck. The Controller might be pricey if it's still offered from ford, but I don't think it would be the most difficult swap in the world. Otherwise, yeah, just stick with the 302... they both probably make about the same power.

 

[curtis73]

I don't mind a little turbo 4-banger. Certainly would save weight. But are they a good choice for towing? Some turbo motors are well-suited for long periods of foot-to-the-floor, and others are designed for one stoplight to the next.

 

[franklin2]

The worst part of any modern swap is the wiring. If you do not like playing with wires, I would not do the swap or swap a carbed 302 in place.

What was your towing experience like? I go through Harrisburg Pa all the time and follow I-81 up above there to Wilkes-Barre and I know it's hilly up there. But I also know a lot of people get in a hurry, is that your only problem? Slow on hills? And I notice also in PA their on ramps onto the interstate are pretty short.

 

[curtis73]

In general, I find the 4.0 to be barely adequate on its own without a trailer. I can always maintain speeds on hills, but it takes a bit of gear-rowing to do it. The boat is 3500 lbs or so with some gas, an anchor, plus the trailer. I find that (with the boat) I have to pre-emptively downshift to 4th before a hill and floor it. As soon as I'm on the hill it starts to slow down. Most hills require 3rd and I'm foot-to-the-floor at 4000 RPMs just maintaining 55 or so.

Just a couple months ago it had some needs. The PO had used parts store coil and wires and Champion plugs, and it had an intermittent misfire. During the covid quarantine I decided to do a few things so it got a new radiator, Motorcraft coil/plugs/wires, reman injectors, valve cover gaskets, fuel filter, etc. Kind of something to pass the time while I was in there doing valve cover gaskets. So the engine should be tip-top on the fueling/sparking front. 108k.

I also have a sneaking suspicion that I may have a partially clogged catalyst. I don't know why I think that, but I swear the factory exhaust is getting even quieter. It needs a new midpipe anyway so I might just yank it off and see what it looks like. Catalyst plugged or not, it never did have the guts to really pull that boat for the last two seasons either, so I'm not hoping for a smoking gun with cats.

In all other aspects, it does wonderfully. It controls the trailer beautifully, it brakes adequately, it's a breeze to tow, just getting tired of being passed by 18=wheelers.

 

[curtis73]

Oh, and if I went 302, I'd do EFI. We do have a visual check for emissions here and I can't imagine sneaking a Qjet past an inspector without an extra $50 on the sly

 

[franklin2]

We all have to do something like this at least once I guess. I am guessing though, that the percentage of driving while pulling the trailer is low. And what fuel mileage does it get most of the time? And is it pretty reliable like it is? I guess I am getting old, and have done this one too many times. It's a lot of work for what little benefit you get. If the 18 wheelers want to blow my doors off, I let them pass on by. I have a old 1989 idi diesel f250 with no turbo. It's very slow, but it always starts and gets me there. You just can't get in a hurry with it.

Which brings me to the diesel option. It will be slow unless your swap includes a turbo. And even then, you will probably have to turn it up a little bit. Even the 4bt's are a little slow unless they are worked on a little bit. I believe your 302 idea would probably be the best with aftermarket parts available for the swap and a lot of info on this site about it.

 

[MikeG]

Gears. I'd probably go a set or two lower on the differential gears. Yeah it costs money but so does an engine swap. Or maybe start with cheaper engine mods.

SOHC 4.0 would have to be an easier swap, I'd think.

 

[curtis73]

17 mpg empty, 11 towing 3500 lbs in the mountains. Runs great. Just slow. The percentage of time I spend towing is actually pretty high. In the non-summer time I'm often towing a 14' landscape trailer, but that is light and mostly around town. During the last two weeks I put about 1000 miles with the boat. Summer is often daily boating on any one of 10 lakes.

It's not that I want to be in a hurry, it's that I don't want to be a danger to traffic, and I'm constantly pushing the engine as hard as possible. I don't care how reliable it is, 4000 rpms with your foot to the floor for 6 miles isn't pleasant; screaming motor, wailing clutch fan, A/C off to get that extra 3 mph... it's just not a nice driving experience.

 

[curtis73]

Gears. I'd probably go a set or two lower on the differential gears. Yeah it costs money but so does an engine swap. Or maybe start with cheaper engine mods.

SOHC 4.0 would have to be an easier swap, I'd think.

SOHC would be 75% of the work, but next to zero benefit. Same displacement, higher torque peak RPM. Modding an OHV is do-able, but kinda polishing a turd. You can port the heads to get quantity of flow, but they port design will never offer quality of flow. Anything I do (short of forced induction) will also shift the torque peak up, especially with the limited displacement. I need torque peaks at 2500 with flat torque after the peak. With the old-school ports on a 4.0L, I'll never get that, as evidenced by the factory torque peak at 2400 that drops off like a lead balloon by 4000.

Gears are also zero benefit. I don't have trouble getting started and getting up to speed, I have trouble maintaining speed. Gearing won't help that. It's the total final drive ratio, not just the rear ratio. I currently have 3.73s, but for the sake of math simplicity... fourth gear with 4.10s is a final drive of 4.10:1. Final drive in third with 3.08s is 4.36 or so. Both are putting the same basic torque to the ground, in fact the 3.08s in that example are putting MORE torque to the ground. In those two examples, the first one in fourth and the second one in third will still maintain the same basic speed because the same torque is getting to the wheels. The only difference is that the second example will have to be shifted more. Gearing changes how quickly I can get up to speed, but doesn't affect how much torque is being produced. That is simply a factor of the multiplication of torque through the gear ratios which are ultimately selectable with my right hand.

Also, going to 4.10s isn't much of a step, and going to 4.56 would likely require a whole different carrier for the ring. Then it's not just $800 for two sets of R&P kits, it adds another $1200 for differentials.

 

[gaz]

Curtis:

If the flow work is done to improve the overall efficiency, the increased maximum torque will be made at a lower RPM. This really helps when a mountain pass is in your route. Rolling over a pass in top gear without using the entire throttle is very heart warming.

A little compression bump will also make a big difference with improved flow top end. Both will love the improved exhaust flow that you are already considering.

It is also nice seeing stable temperatures while ascending, it is a shock. It's one thing to build a race car engine, making a daily driver do it's job more efficient and cost less to operate seems to get lost in the somewhere, somehow.

 

[Ramcharger90]

FOUR HUNDRED N EIGHT CUBIC INCHES.





With Twin Turbos in the bed.



200 shot of nitrous oxide

 

[curtis73]

Overkill, plus overkill, plus more overkill... I LOVE IT.