4x4 wont engage; what else could it be?

[RonD]

Yes, that is correct
Shift motor should rotate to all positions when plugged into the harness whether its bolted to transfer case or not
There are no internal sensors inside transfer case, everything is in the shift motor, and no "ground" to transfer case is needed


When activated the controller starts to move the shift motor and then "watches" the contacts to make sure they are changing, if it doesn't "see" that, it stops and then reverses back to where it was
And it should Flash the 4WD lights at that time, indicating a problem

From your description
The switch on dash is OK
The fuses for shift motor and controller are OK
The shift "motor" is powering up, and moving in BOTH directions

But controller is not "seeing" contacts in the shift motor changing so doesn't "know" what position transfer case shift rod socket is in

 

[MarkDru]

Thank you, Ron. I had read in some threads that most of the time, a problem with the tcm knowing the position of the shift motor is in the encoder assembly of the motor. The suggested cure is to adjust the contacts. That should not be a problem with a new shift motor, right? Is there any way to cause the tcm to learn the position of the shift motor?
In another excellent thread, a Ranger stuck in 4LO was fixed with a new motor, tcm and transmission speed sensor. I think he replaced speed sensor only because he noted speedo was not registering above 38 mph, but speed sensor is connected to 4wd system, so I might look at replacing that. I have no speedo problems, but I do have a hard shift from 2nd to 3rd.

 

[RonD]

Well the "encoder" is a wheel with metal strips on it and 6 spring loaded contacts that press down on that wheel
So no electronics involved
Seen in Pictures 5 and 6 here: https://www.therangerstation.com/tech/rebuilding-a-ford-transfer-case-shift-motor/

Speed sensor is hooked to tcm(??transfer case motor) controller
But only used to shift to 4low

"New" means never ever...................EVER, tested
It no longer means "tested and works", that was 30 years ago when labor(quality control) was cheap
You are the first person to test any "new" device, so grain of salt

A used Ford part is often better than a new 3rd party part, because Ford requires quality control on all parts, which is why a Ford part is 3 or 4 times the cost of 3rd party, lol


You can move the shift motor using 12v/ground directly to the motor to make sure its moving the full 270deg, 2WD to 4Low and then back to 2WD
You just reverse polarity to reverse direction of motor
Then move the motor so its between 4h and 4l, that's Neutral(just FYI), then plug motor back into harness and turn the key on, with 4WD switch in 2WD position
The controller(tcm) should see that the contacts(encoder) are in the wrong position for 2WD and move the motor to 2WD position

If that doesn't line up with transfer case shift rod(assuming its in 2WD position) then yes you will need to adjust the contacts for 2WD position

 

[franklin2]

You can move the shift motor using 12v/ground directly to the motor to make sure its moving the full 270deg, 2WD to 4Low and then back to 2WD
You just reverse polarity to reverse direction of motor

Doing that with my new motor is where I got my eureka! idea and it worked perfectly for years after that.

 

[MarkDru]

I do get the full 270 degree swivel, so I am going to give that a shot. I just went through a 24 hour period with battery disconnected so as to clear everything out and also checked the wiring harness box under driver's seat. All connections were good in the box--nice and clean in there. I unbolted the motor and just got the bumping movement, but I had not advanced the motor to neutral. Gonna go give that a shot.

PS: Anyone know how to read the date codes on the control modules? My Ranger is an 02 and original module date code is 02107 (Part No 1L54-7H417-AD). Replacement module date code is 09348 (Part No. 1L54-7H417-AE).

 

[DILLARD000]

G

I do get the full 270 degree swivel, so I am going to give that a shot. I just went through a 24 hour period with battery disconnected so as to clear everything out and also checked the wiring harness box under driver's seat. All connections were good in the box--nice and clean in there. I unbolted the motor and just got the bumping movement, but I had not advanced the motor to neutral. Gonna go give that a shot.

PS: Anyone know how to read the date codes on the control modules? My Ranger is an 02 and original module date code is 02107 (Part No 1L54-7H417-AD). Replacement module date code is 09348 (Part No. 1L54-7H417-AE).

Guessing 02107 is 2002 Day 107, 09348 is 2009 Day 348?

 

[ericbphoto]

G

Guessing 02107 is 2002 Day 107, 09348 is 2009 Day 348?

No, no. 09348 is September 34th, 2008

 

[MikeG]

September 3, 1948?

 

[MarkDru]

Well, I gave that a shot and it didn't work. At first, I thought it did because I used an auxilliary battery to move motor to neutral position, and when I turned key on, the motor did move from neutral to 2HI position. However, motor just did its little bump forward/back a couple mm thing when 4HI selected. I guess I am gonna try another replacement module.

 

[MarkDru]

This is no fun. I purchased a replacement module from salvage yard and it does nothing--no lights on dash at startup and no clicking when 4x4 selector turned. But, my first replacement module does give me lights on startup, and does click when 4x4 selector turned.
I have NEVER had any flashing lights on the dash; the only lights I have ever had throughout this ordeal are the lights at startup. I even tried manually putting shift rod in 4Hi, with motor in corresponding position and bolted to transfer case, and driving around in 4Hi. Although I was indeed in 4Hi, I had no 4 Hi indicator light on, steady or flashing. I then was able to go to neutral, brake on, and shift into (and back out of) 4Lo, but again, no dash lights. I think I am going to again check the return signal, because module just seems totally confused as to where it is.

 

[DILLARD000]

This is no fun. I purchased a replacement module from salvage yard and it does nothing...

Your newly purchased replacement from salvage yard, what's the FordMotorCraft ####-#####-## ?
Considering the notoriously high failure rate of these 4x4 ControlModules+ShiftMotors,
I'd not have high hopes a used part would work at first or for very long.
Though if used part is near free, okay I'm a cheap bas'ard & may try it to get by for awhile,
knowing another replacement will likely be needed soon.

 

[ericbphoto]

Almost sounds like a wiring problem between the motor and the control module. That's a stretch. But it seems to be the only thing left. Your control module doesn't seem to be getting the feedback from the position switches at the motor.

 

[MarkDru]

The "new" replacement module is 1L547H417AC. So, now I have 3 modules, all same #s ending in AC, AD and AE, with only the AE showing any signs of life, but no 4wd. I agree with eric that, in the words of the great Strother Martin, "there seems to be a lack of communication..." between the module and the motor. Gonna have to figure out how to use a multimeter. I have learned where to probe, what to look for and what readings mean, but the HOW to probe has me stumped. At first glance, it's like WTF, how do I get these probes onto those tiny pins!

 

[DILLARD000]

4x4 ConMod part numbers seem correct, likely just bad used parts.
A paper clip bent straight or sewing needle can be handy for back probing connections.
This is just 12vDC circuitry, so you won't electricute yourself; worse you can do is blow a fuse.
Try not to let the "forest" overwhelm your brain; take one small "tree" AKA problem at a time.
Take your time & try to logically eliminate one possible problem\wire at a time.

 

[RonD]

It doesn't read like you have a voltage issue since the you hear a relay click and the motor moves "a little" then moves back when you change 4WD switch position

So best to use OHMs on a Meter
If you select OHMS and then touch the two probes together you will see 0 come up in the screen, take them apart and you should see N/C(no connection) or "1"
Touch together and 0 again

0 means there is a connection between the probes
So if you put a probe on engine or body bare metal in two different places you should see 0 because they should both be connected thru the metal
Same for a wire, if you put a probe on each end of the same wire it should be 0 ohms if wire is not broken

So OHM meter in this use is to check if there is a connection or no connection

You can unplug the 4x4CM, and unplug the shift motor
Then use the paper clip or jumper wire at the shift motor end and jumper(connect) two of the wires together
Then go to the cab 4x4CM connector and test OHM on those 2 wires(look at the colors)
Should see 0 ohms because both wires are connected at the other end, if you see 0 then both wires are good

On a 2002 Ranger there should be 7 wires at the shift motor end(no brown clutch wire after 2000)
You can do 3 tests for 6 wires then hook 7th to one of the ones already tested to test it

If you do find a pair of wires with N/C then test each of those wires with another one to find out which wire is bad

Ohm meter(in cab)-----------(shift wire)-----------Jumper------------(shift wire)------------Ohm meter(in cab)