4WD not working


RonD

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There is only 2 parts to the system, the 4x4 CM, you just changed, and the shift motor

And the 4WD light will flash if 4x4CM sends the shift motor voltage(relay clicks) and shift motor doesn't move.

The switch is just 3 resistors and the 4WD Lights should flash if 4x4CM doesn't get back any voltage from switch when key is turned on

4x4CM sends 5volts to switch with key on, these are the voltage readings the 4x4CM will get back from switch
3.86v for 2wd
2.94v for high
1.76v for low
If 4x4CM gets no voltage then it would flash 4WD lights

This is not a complicated system, compared to some, lol

I think your "new" 4x4CM is bad, especially if its not "clicking"
Not unheard of

Whats the part number on it?

I am showing last part number for Ranger 4x4CM was 8L5Z-7E453-A, so a 2008 number, previous was 7L5Z-7E453-A so 2007 number
 


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ochoam

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Part number is 8L5Z-7E453-A

I would be very surprised if this part was back I got it from a good ford dealer

I am going to call where I got the part from, but I'm worried there's no way to test if the part is bad.
 

ochoam

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Talked with a mechanic I trust about this (not saying I don't trust this form, but he has been great to me in the past)

When he did other work on the car he thought the part could of been bad too.

To prove the part is defective from where I bought it they'd charge me for labor, and I want avoid that.

Do you have to initialize this part?
 

RonD

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No, the part is plug and play.

You did say you checked the 3 fuses after putting the new part in, right
 
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Correct I did
 

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Good news, I got it fixed.

I did need to unplug the battery for 10 minutes to 'initialize' the module.
 

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RonD

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Good work

Never heard of that but good to know
 

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I have seen similar symptoms to what has been going on with mine, but not exactly.

2001 Ford Ranger 4x4 Off-Road
4.0L 5R55e Transmission

A few years ago my 4x4 stopped working. Basically It is permanently in 2hi. It will not shift into 4hi or 4lo unless I use a pair of pliers to manually turn the transfer case. I didn't worry about it at the time because funds were tight and I didn't really use it all that much. So I got the chance to fix it a few months back. I researched and researched and everything pointed to the bushing inside of the shift motor being the culprit. I took it apart and sure as shit that bushing was dust. I tried replacing the bushing and cleaning the brushes but it didn't seem to work. The control module would click, then click like 4 more times once every 5 seconds but not do anything. Taking the motor off it would try to spin but would return to home. I tried adjusting the cover that has the contact wheel but to no avail. I then decided to just replace the shift motor altogether. Everything went together fine, same issue. Only difference was the control module only clicks like two or three times instead. Otherwise same problem. I then thought the 4x4CM was bad. I ordered one off of Rock Auto. Still has not solved the problem. At this point I have replaced the switch, 4x4CM, and the shift motor and the problem still persists. I have checked all fuses including inside the cab and under the hood in the power distribution box. When I turn on the truck it does the bulb test and my 4x4 lights do come on for a second. I am at my wits end and if anyone could chime in and help out I would be extremely grateful.

PS If I violated the etiquette on jumping on someone elses thread and should have started my own I apologize
 

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The 'trick' to my solution was unplugging the battery and letting it sit for the 4x4module to initialize the part.

If you can maybe try checking the voltages in and out of each part to try and isolate where something is failing?
 

Josh B

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When you had the shift motor out, did you manually switch it into and out of 4WD? It could be stuck.
That shift motor turns 1/4 to 4HI, then another to 4LO, then back again, simply pushing the cog it mounts to.
You should be able to turn that cog with a crescent wrench
 

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Ochoam,

I unplugged my negative battery terminal and let it sit overnight because I thought that might be the case. However I might try that again as its not very hard to do.

Do you know if there is an instance where a part could be getting voltage so the fuses look good but the voltage isn't quite enough to fully energize the circuit?

Josh B

Yes I did. It had been so long since I had 4WD that I was afraid I wouldn't be able to tell if it was in 4hi. But I used a pair of pliers and was able to cycle to all of its shift points with not a lot of effort. I drove it down my street and it sure as hell was in 4WD, no question. So I know that from the transfer case itself to the wheels it does what it is supposed to do. I even left it in 4hi and indexed the transfer case motor to 4hi to match, bolted everything together, and the 4hi light was on in the dash. I switched it to 2hi and it shifted to 2hi, then was back to doing the same stuff.
 

Josh B

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I just wondered Timbo, that's about all I could tell ya bout em :)
 

evocatus

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Ochoam,

I unplugged my negative battery terminal and let it sit overnight because I thought that might be the case. However I might try that again as its not very hard to do.

Do you know if there is an instance where a part could be getting voltage so the fuses look good but the voltage isn't quite enough to fully energize the circuit?

Josh B

Yes I did. It had been so long since I had 4WD that I was afraid I wouldn't be able to tell if it was in 4hi. But I used a pair of pliers and was able to cycle to all of its shift points with not a lot of effort. I drove it down my street and it sure as hell was in 4WD, no question. So I know that from the transfer case itself to the wheels it does what it is supposed to do. I even left it in 4hi and indexed the transfer case motor to 4hi to match, bolted everything together, and the 4hi light was on in the dash. I switched it to 2hi and it shifted to 2hi, then was back to doing the same stuff.
Ochoam,

I unplugged my negative battery terminal and let it sit overnight because I thought that might be the case. However I might try that again as its not very hard to do.

Do you know if there is an instance where a part could be getting voltage so the fuses look good but the voltage isn't quite enough to fully energize the circuit?

Josh B

Yes I did. It had been so long since I had 4WD that I was afraid I wouldn't be able to tell if it was in 4hi. But I used a pair of pliers and was able to cycle to all of its shift points with not a lot of effort. I drove it down my street and it sure as hell was in 4WD, no question. So I know that from the transfer case itself to the wheels it does what it is supposed to do. I even left it in 4hi and indexed the transfer case motor to 4hi to match, bolted everything together, and the 4hi light was on in the dash. I switched it to 2hi and it shifted to 2hi, then was back to doing the same stuff.
Just a trick you might try Timbo...From a retired Ford mech friend of mine...Something to try, unless the Transfer Case Control Module is fried...

The Transfer Case Control Module sits inside the kick panel just forward of the door on Passenger side...Pry up rocker trim and remove kick panel...Unplug the grey and black plugs on the Module and check for corrosion (green stuff)...May have to dismount the module to see into the sockets, or use an inspection mirror and a good light...

If present remove the two screws holding the module using a 7mm socket, and with some 400 grit sandpaper wrapped around a popsicle stick VERY GENTLY polish the contacts inside the sockets...Be very careful not to bend or break...Blow out dust with air...Then a quick light shot of WD40 followed by more air and wipe off excess WD...

Plug the harness back in and reinstall...Then road test...

My buddy says with the location of the module and the mats and or carpet getting wet in winter, humidity can cause corrosion over time...My Ranger is also a 2001, so it's seen lots of winters...Worked for me...All it'll cost ya is a bit of time...Best of luck...
 

RonD

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1995 to 2000 Rangers used the GEM module behind the radio along with a dual relay box(behind the GEM), as the 4x4 control system

2001-2011 Rangers used a 4x4CM, as the controller, it had relays built in
It was located behind passenger kick panel, 2001-2003
In 2004 Rangers got the SJB(smart junction box), which replaced GEM, in the passenger kick panel and 4x4CM was moved to behind the radio, 2004-2011

The 4x4CM's had a higher failure rate than the GEM, Ford changed the 4x4CM design in 2006 or 7, and its not backwards compatible, it failed less but still had a higher failure rate than would be expected

All Rangers used a 3 resistor switch on the dash to select 2wd, 4high or 4low, the controller would send the switch 5 volts with key on
If controller got back 4volts from the switch it set 2wd
3 volts 4high
2 volts 4low
Unless the switch was physically damaged they rarely failed

They all used the same shift motor on the transfer case as well.
Shift motor would quit working from lack of use and tapping on it would get it working again in some cases but temporarily.
Best practice is to shift to 4high and 4low then back to 2wd once a month to keep motor working longer, don't have to drive it, just shift it sitting the driveway

The 4x4 systems have no connection to the engine computer, they are an add-on system, so would not set any Pxxxx codes.
Depending on model year you might get Bxxxx code, thats a Body code from the GEM or SJB, denoting a 4x4 problem, but your reader would have to be "told" to get B codes
Most OBD readers only look for P codes, powertrain code, which are for engine and automatic transmissions, not for manual trans or transfer case
 
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